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I got it working, not too keen on my wiring job but it will do for a few weeks. I had the wrong side of the connector. The top end goes to the ECU, the bottom to the coils. I should have known, I mean I just had that harness off, twice.
I am bringing a few tools and throwing my stock coils and wires in the trunk just in case. Hopefully see you guys in the morning.
Had a great time with you guys. My hooptie *** coil wiring job made it all the way to Laguna Seca and back. I need to adjust a few things and clean up the wiring harness a bit(ton) before I will be happy with it.
Finally changed the break in oil out for some T6. Did the tranny and diff while I was at it. Adjusted one of my v bands that was not seated quite right. Took the car for a spin, about 21psi with maybe 32% boost duty, zero misses. Pulls incredibly hard, spinning tires big time. I made a few adjustments and upped the boost for next time. I will increase the boost slowly until I start to run out of fuel. Perhaps I can run a 1/4 next week.
Ok, so I am getting a little oscillation from 25-28psi, the highest I've gone yet. Could it be that my boost solenoid is running too slow, this is open loop so the duty is constant? Or does this just mean that I have a boost leak above 25psi?
Yes, to quote EO2K, "My ****'s fuggin fast as frick."
Many things going on in this log, I increased the spark duration and dwell some as well as the boost limit. I may be running out of fuel but I added some fuel and this is uncharted territory for me, I will see next log.
Ok, I have a hypothetical question about a hypothetical situation.
Suppose I bought this non running NB1 completely stock, unmolested. Turns out the only thing wrong is a dead fuel pump. No, this is all hypothetical. So I know a guy who has a nice fuel lab FPR, the correct one for returnless, and a big 255l pump, cheap.
The question is, can I install this big pump, add the regulator at the return on top of the gas tank. Then set the pressure to 60psi and have the stock ECU/injectors play nice and be happy?
Sure. 60 psig is 60 psig. Either way, that is what is on the supply line as it leaves the tank area. Drops in the supply line to the fuel rail will all be same as stock.
There will be more flow of fuel going through the filter and recirculated back to the tank, but that should not be an issue.
Bottom hypothetical line, you need to convert to return-style, that way your hypothetical fuel system doesn't get overwhelmed and max out the hypothetical injectors.
Bottom hypothetical line, you need to convert to return-style, that way your hypothetical fuel system doesn't get overwhelmed and max out the hypothetical injectors.
Hypothetically speaking, of course
Not with the hypothetical ECU and OBDII.
Or just drop in a DW100, with OEM sock instead of the cheapo kluge.
The problem with a big pump and the stock regulator is that it can't keep up at low fuel demand times, big injectors don't help that.
If you run with the stock regulator and it maxes out, then your fuel pressure is the max the pump can deliver minus the max the regulator can take away. You can't really tune around this either, because the max that the pump can deliver varies with things like temperature, voltage, fuel tank level, etc.
A big pump with an aftermarket regulator mounted where the stock fuel filter goes, with that regulator set to replicate the factory pressure (unreferenced, 60-ish psig, IIRC), will work just fine with the stock ECU. No codes, no CELs, no emissions consequences. May or may not pass the visual test (you could argue it's a factory-equivalent, but that might not fly)
10-07-2017 | 12:23 AM
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