DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

Which of these turbos to use?

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Old 09-02-2017 | 04:01 AM
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Default Which of these turbos to use?

Ok here goes. I have a 1999 1.8L miata with 175000 km. The engine is stock inside and out. The car is currently apart as the suspension is being rebuilt. I am on a tight budget and as such must do all the work myself. I cannot get all new shiny parts as I have a family and other priorities. Currently I have in my possession , boost controller, bov, turbo timer, AN fittings and lines, oil cooler, 440cc rx8 injectors, toyota COPs, water injection setup and some other bits. I also have at hand half a dozen or more turbos from various projects. I am planing on running a cast manifold for ease and reliability. The turbos are as follows, Rb20 hitachi bb ceramic turbo max boost 14psi, RX7 fc turbo, Evo7 TD05HRA-16G6-9.8T (RS/RS2). I can also get my hands on an Rb25 hitachi bb ceramic turbo max boost 14psi. I live in Japan in a mountainous area. The roads are narrow and winding. I need a respnosive agile setup which will produce power through the band. I do not want it to be too peaky or lag too much. I am hoping to get between 250 to 280 hp at the flywheel. Which of the aforementioned turbos do you think would best fit my needs and what are the benefits and shortcomings of these turbos. Any and all help, comments personal experience and links are welcomed.

Last edited by Flux; 09-02-2017 at 05:21 AM.
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Old 09-02-2017 | 09:18 AM
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Putting the effort in to reading a few of the stickies specifically geared towards new members goes a long way in getting you the information you need.

Here is a great one you should read first: https://www.miataturbo.net/meet-greet-40/ultimate-noobs-read-first-sticky-35885/


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Old 09-02-2017 | 10:39 AM
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Thanks for the tip. I went through it. Some funny stuff in there. I would think some of the things would be obvious, but I guess not. I will do the into thing soon. It is a good Idea. It is rather late now and I am about to pass out. I have been reading hours on end for nearly two weeks. My eyes hurt and they feel like sandpaper (a quick cut and buff is called for). I am all hyped about getting this project going.
Old 09-02-2017 | 10:51 AM
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After weeks of reading, you should have found that building a set up around a somewhat random turbo, is a bad idea. So is not using a stand alone computer. 440's probably won't make 280.

start reading a bunch of build tbreads.
Old 09-02-2017 | 06:10 PM
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I plan on using Megasquirt, but not the plug and play. Insofar as the turbos being random, I don't really take your meaning. The rb turbos are T3s and the Mitsubishi dsm turbos are very well supported and have many incarnations. As such if I have to swap out the turbo there are other variations and incarnation of the same housing type that will bolt in with little if any modification. The exhaust system will be v-band so that in such scenario the process is made easier. I plan on running higher fuel pressure somewhere in the 47lb range so that should give the needed flexibility to reach the power goals of the build.
Old 09-02-2017 | 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Flux
:
I am planing on running a cast manifold for ease and reliability
:
If you're not making/using a custom manifold and want to use a cast manifold, this is where you should have STARTED!

ie. Find out what cast manifolds are available and what turbos they support, then based on the supported turbos, choose the one that supports your goals.

For years the only available cast manifolds were from FM and the OEM Mazdaspeed manifold (eBay knock-offs too but they don't count if you want reliability). Now we have the track-proven TSE cast manifold and the promising new Kraken cast manifold.

It's expensive and takes time to develop a cast manifold so they typically only support a specific turbo range.

Once you've settled on the manifold and turbo, the downpipe is the next big issue and it's usually cheaper and way less hassle using the one recommended by the manifold manufacturer than coming up with your own solution (unless you live overseas and the S&H is a killer) .
Old 09-02-2017 | 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Lokiel

For years the only available cast manifolds were from FM and the OEM Mazdaspeed manifold (eBay knock-offs too but they don't count if you want reliability). Now we have the track-proven TSE cast manifold and the promising new Kraken cast manifold.
There's also the pretty nice looking g19 engineering (subaru turbo flange) cast manifold from the UK. Plenty of options now.
Old 09-02-2017 | 07:40 PM
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is an EFR6258 an instrument
Old 09-02-2017 | 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Lokiel
Once you've settled on the manifold and turbo, the downpipe is the next big issue and it's usually cheaper and way less hassle using the one recommended by the manifold manufacturer than coming up with your own solution (unless you live overseas and the S&H is a killer) .
Well put. I do live overseas as a matter of fact. I am looking at a T3, however I have found T3 to td05 bolt on flange which will enable me to run the Evo turbo. On the other hand I can bolt on the Rb turbos right up as they have a T3 flange.
Old 09-02-2017 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Junkwhale
There's also the pretty nice looking g19 engineering (subaru turbo flange) cast manifold from the UK. Plenty of options now.
Thanks,I did not know that. Company name or link would be nice. I will google it anyway.
Old 09-02-2017 | 10:31 PM
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The specs of the turbos at my disposal are as follows:
Rb20 Hitachi T3glange T28 centre ball bearing ceramic shaft and blade max boost 14psi
Comp
inducer= 42.5mm
Exducer=58mm
55 trim.
50 AR.

Turbine
exducer 42.5mm
Inducer=?
.40AR

The Evo7 turbo MHI TD05HRA-16G6-9.8T
TD05HR turbine = GSR Inconel (steel alloy)
TD05HRA turbine = RS/RS2 = Titanium alloy
Nozzle Area (cm2) = 9.8

Compressor 16G6 = Aluminium
Inducer = 48.3mm
Exducer = 68mm
50 trim
Turbine housing = twin flapper
Inducer = 56mm
Exducer = 49.2mm
77 trim
0.67 A/R
505 CFM @ 22 psi
Old 09-02-2017 | 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Lexzar
is an EFR6258 an instrument
Indeed it is, one that the exhaust manifold plays to put a smile on your face.
Old 09-02-2017 | 11:44 PM
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answer: none of them.
or which ever you want, if you wanna do it the hard way
Old 09-03-2017 | 01:01 AM
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Originally Posted by 18psi
answer: none of them.
or which ever you want, if you wanna do it the hard way
Please elaborate. As I see it the MHI evo 7 turbo does not bolt up and requires extra work. As such I can see how that is indeed more difficult and can be problematic. However, the T3 is a direct bolt on to the manifold, so fitments is not an issue. There is no doubt that buying a prefabricated kit is easier, but it is not an option that I can afford. I am hoping to find a practical and reasonable way to do this. All of the parts that I currently have are quality brand name parts. The only compromise here that I am making is the turbo. I am not keen on getting some Ebay chinese turbo. On the other hand there are many oem turbos here in Japan that fit the bill both in terms of ability to produce the desired power and reliability.
Old 09-03-2017 | 07:06 AM
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The rb20 turbo is a good size and has t3 inlet. Run it. Should be fine.
Old 09-03-2017 | 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Junkwhale
There's also the pretty nice looking g19 engineering (subaru turbo flange) cast manifold from the UK. Plenty of options now.
Nice setup by G19. Unfortunately, the MHI td05 flange looks like this
Turbo Inlet Manifold Flange Mitsubishi EVO 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 | eBay
Old 09-03-2017 | 09:34 AM
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I fully agree with six shooter and I encourage your build. Research fully and dont use any bandaids.
Old 09-03-2017 | 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
The rb20 turbo is a good size and has t3 inlet. Run it. Should be fine.
I was thinking much the same. I have access to both the rb20 and rb25. They share housing, flange and centre section design. Naturally, there are differences. Both are 55 trim on the comp side. The inducer on the rb20 is 42.5mm while the rb 25 is 48.5mm, exducer 58mm vs 67mm, A/R .50 vs .60. Here is a pic the illustrates the difference.

Old 09-03-2017 | 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by nitrodann
I fully agree with six shooter and I encourage your build. Research fully and dont use any bandaids.
I appreciate it and I will be vigilant.




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