easier to pull engine or eng + trans?
#7
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Every bit helps when it comes to clearance at the back of the motor. Wait to install the cas and coils , if your doing a coolant reroute you might want to put that on. It is a hassle if your using the m tune reroute to do it once the motor is in.
#12
If you have to remove the engine, remove both together. Being able to tilt the engine forward on a stand and carefully drop the transmission on to the top of the clutch is way easier than fooling around under the car trying to make **** align.
Be careful to properly unplug speedo, reverse, neutral before you lift everything out. Or you're gonna have a bad time. Mostly because you won't realize it until later when the car is "done" but the wires are broken.
And yeah, obviously you need a leveler for your engine hoist or this will suck.
Be careful to properly unplug speedo, reverse, neutral before you lift everything out. Or you're gonna have a bad time. Mostly because you won't realize it until later when the car is "done" but the wires are broken.
And yeah, obviously you need a leveler for your engine hoist or this will suck.
#14
Having done it both ways, I'd say it's roughly the same amount of work to remove the engine both with and without the tranny attached. Getting to the bellhousing bolts isn't all that hard if you've got a decent set of long extensions and U-joints, and you don't need to pull as much exhaust/PPF/driveshaft stuff if you leave the tranny in the car.
On the other hand, getting it back *in* is a serious PITA if the tranny is still in the car, so you'll wind up pulling the transmission anyway and would have been better off just doing it the way everyone recommends.
--Ian
On the other hand, getting it back *in* is a serious PITA if the tranny is still in the car, so you'll wind up pulling the transmission anyway and would have been better off just doing it the way everyone recommends.
--Ian
#15
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both together FTW.
just did this project two weeks ago. pulled both together alone, by myself. no biggie. 3-4 hours to unbolt everything needed and unplug everything then no more than 30mins to actually pull the motor/tranny.
make sure you have a load leveler, i cannot even imagine how to get it out without a leveler, i have to tilt it at all kinds of angles to clear everything.
just did this project two weeks ago. pulled both together alone, by myself. no biggie. 3-4 hours to unbolt everything needed and unplug everything then no more than 30mins to actually pull the motor/tranny.
make sure you have a load leveler, i cannot even imagine how to get it out without a leveler, i have to tilt it at all kinds of angles to clear everything.
#16
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Used to be a huge proponent of pulling them together, however with lifts at work, I usually pull the trans first, making pulling the engine that much easier (ie; straight up, not constantly fiddling with load leveler). With an impact, a long extension, and this:
https://store.snapon.com/Shallow-Swi...t-P645581.aspx
bell housing bolts are out in about 30 seconds. A quick swap to the straight socket, because swivel sockets are sketch with impact, and the PPF comes off a few minutes later.
I laugh at all you peasants working in your driveway or garage. I don't think Craig was asking for lift advice though.
https://store.snapon.com/Shallow-Swi...t-P645581.aspx
bell housing bolts are out in about 30 seconds. A quick swap to the straight socket, because swivel sockets are sketch with impact, and the PPF comes off a few minutes later.
I laugh at all you peasants working in your driveway or garage. I don't think Craig was asking for lift advice though.
#19
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a question for the engine pulling gurus:
when dropping the engine back in, whats the best way to address engine mounts.
The way i did it, is drop the engine in, then once its positioned semi close, i put in the mounts first into the subframe with the 1 bolt and loosely put the nut, then as i fiddle with the lift/leveler i try to line up the 3 bolts for the mount to engine.
This took me 3 freaking hours to do alone. 6 bolts but hours and hours of frustration.
is there an easier way?
when dropping the engine back in, whats the best way to address engine mounts.
The way i did it, is drop the engine in, then once its positioned semi close, i put in the mounts first into the subframe with the 1 bolt and loosely put the nut, then as i fiddle with the lift/leveler i try to line up the 3 bolts for the mount to engine.
This took me 3 freaking hours to do alone. 6 bolts but hours and hours of frustration.
is there an easier way?