Turbo Smurfette - Build in progress (slow)
#1021
Ok now I understand it a bit better. That's kind of weird because the various other Skunk2 TB equipped cars I've tuned did not have this problem.
Yeah I noticed idle advance was on too, I haven't needed to use it before so when I re-do your closed loop idle settings with the new numbers I'll disable it.
Yeah I noticed idle advance was on too, I haven't needed to use it before so when I re-do your closed loop idle settings with the new numbers I'll disable it.
#1025
So the throttle itself, without adjusting the stop, wouldn't close on it's own completely unless there was momentum behind it closing. If I where lifting slowly and coasted, it would sit at 1% TPS and high idle. If I where to jab the throttle, it would close completely. I added a spring to help keep the throttle shut, but even that isn't helping out too much now. So just to try, I adjusted the stop to the point where it barely touched and adjusted the bypass screw in to help drop the high idle. After all is said and done, it idles at 1000 without any help of the bypass.
Trying to figure out the idle with this Skunk2 throttle has been an ongoing challenge. Working around it's deficiency getting "sticky" when closing or little adjustability thereafter, I'm not certain other than trying a heaver spring to keep the throttle shut. I want to replace the throttle stop screw at some point for longevity and easier adjustment than the oddball allen key I have to carry, will try to set things back and report in.
As of current idle valve test has a range between 3 and 55%, but I'm not sure if some of that fluctuation is just idle bouncing around few hundred rpm's and the fans kicking on and off.
Also, I don't know if I used advance at Idle before, but it's enabled when I got it back from PTuning. Should this be disabled during idle test?
Trying to figure out the idle with this Skunk2 throttle has been an ongoing challenge. Working around it's deficiency getting "sticky" when closing or little adjustability thereafter, I'm not certain other than trying a heaver spring to keep the throttle shut. I want to replace the throttle stop screw at some point for longevity and easier adjustment than the oddball allen key I have to carry, will try to set things back and report in.
As of current idle valve test has a range between 3 and 55%, but I'm not sure if some of that fluctuation is just idle bouncing around few hundred rpm's and the fans kicking on and off.
Also, I don't know if I used advance at Idle before, but it's enabled when I got it back from PTuning. Should this be disabled during idle test?
#1026
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 4,648
Total Cats: 544
The idle, not yet. I don't have facility to remove the cam on the Skunk2 to redrill to tension the spring tighter. Will pursue this as best it can be until winter mode allows me to start tearing things off the car for funsies.
Received. Will work on it tomorrow, the only sunny day this week.
Received. Will work on it tomorrow, the only sunny day this week.
#1028
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 4,648
Total Cats: 544
@18psi, I'm usually white knuckle gripping the wheel with my eyelids flapping around trying to not poop myself.
I'll check next time.
Boost gauge is connected via long vacuum hose, so it may be slightly damped compared to the inches of hose on the AEM Map sensor.
For testing purposes, should I enable and use the onboard MAP?
I'll check next time.
Boost gauge is connected via long vacuum hose, so it may be slightly damped compared to the inches of hose on the AEM Map sensor.
For testing purposes, should I enable and use the onboard MAP?
#1029
lol with that much power, I would be too.
with the way it's spiking though, you should still see the fluctuations on the gauge: it goes from 19-20 to 16 and back up, that's a pretty large swing.
I'm just trying to figure out if I should smooth/filter the signal from the map sensor because the signal is noisy, or keep pursuing this jigsaw boost issue.
with the way it's spiking though, you should still see the fluctuations on the gauge: it goes from 19-20 to 16 and back up, that's a pretty large swing.
I'm just trying to figure out if I should smooth/filter the signal from the map sensor because the signal is noisy, or keep pursuing this jigsaw boost issue.
#1030
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 4,648
Total Cats: 544
The cable shielding is grounded near the throttle body near where the sensor itself is mounted. Do you suppose it's hitting some sort of resonance at high RPM for it to read funny in the pressure transducer? I can always try extending and relocating the sensor to somewhere with less vibration. I don't know if it's signal noise without zooming into the log, but it I'll check the boost gauge first.
#1032
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 4,648
Total Cats: 544
What if we used the onboard MAP since it's only pushing ~20 psi and use the AEM as barometric pressure. You think it'll show wild oscillation despite the slight under hood pressure changes? Purely for observation.
Moving the sensor is still a non issue and may be easier to try out without having to dig into settings. I'll see what I can do this week.
Moving the sensor is still a non issue and may be easier to try out without having to dig into settings. I'll see what I can do this week.
#1039
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 4,648
Total Cats: 544
Ok, so currently boost settings are:
Pump93
E85
Would switching to mid frequency range at 30Hz help stabilize the oscillations at upper pressures? Would this require higher duty to reach the same targets since it's working marginally faster?
Pump93
E85
Would switching to mid frequency range at 30Hz help stabilize the oscillations at upper pressures? Would this require higher duty to reach the same targets since it's working marginally faster?