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Have been working on the tune with Vlad and wow i am never going back to any of the tuners i was with after all the feedback i received. My tune was 90% ****.
I mean if people want to consider someone a pro tuner simply because they have a shop, then they are welcome to that opinion. I would rather consider someone who is a bit modest and doesn't have a shop, but actually has the knowledge/ability to tune, a pro tuner.
Both Vlad and I have been paid for helping people with their tunes, technically that makes us both professional tuners.
I by no means have anywhere near the experience that Vlad does. He is a real pro but he is modest about it.
We both have real day jobs, not related to cars. Doesn't mean we don't know our stuff.
You can have Vlad fix your tune with complete confidence.
I did adjust the actuator preload, but apparently not enough! So vlad was right again
i put the car back on stands and removed the exhaust (ps.Iloveyouvband) , it turned out to be the waste gate flapper spinning in place - there's a little nub behind the flapper, i'm guessing its a stopper and it was literally just vibrating all over the flapper arm. Tightened the pre-load to double the standard, hoping that gets rid of it.
Also my oxygen sensor is pretty much dead now I'm certain, It worked on the way to get my exhaust fixed - i had to get my mid-pipe shortened about an inch to stop some bumping. its sitting at 14.7 infinitely. I checked all the connections, This is the second time the O2 has died, and its out of warranty. I purchased it may 2016, bosch does a 12 month / unlimited mileage warranty on the sensors so i guess ill be getting another, and then another as a spare.
Moved the knock sensor to the correct cold side position. I am leaking oil from somewhere - i have a bit of oil on my oil pan / under tranny - might be the dipstick, but im unsure - its really hard to locate the source, but i did clean it up - I'm hoping i'll be able to spot the exact location soon, i might have to try dye.
I tightened up everything i could see in sight, and yeah i did miss quite a bit of things initially, like my wipers - Soon as i hit 10 psi my driver side wiper flung open from me not tightening it enough, it was quite embarrassing, i was holding it the whole way back after i had my mid-pipe shortened.
revision sent.
as discussed, until the wideband is back to working properly and 100% calibrated to TS, don't go into boost at all.
once we finish everything on the list I gave you, then we'll be ready to tune boost/power. we'll need to do a bunch of "control" logs for the knock sensor to establish it's noise vs knock windows, since it's very likely your built engine is gonna be noisy
thanks for the timing cover donation maggie @96morbst
Replaced my alt/wp belt, it was squealing pretty bad.
Synced timing
And tried syncing gauge in ts.
I was using the AEM 30-42xx Calibration settings, it looks extremely close, but its definitely off i guess, Will try updating settings from that thread, I have the 4110.
Originally Posted by Braineack
most AEM gauges (like the 4110) use:
0v = 10AFR
4.25 = 18.5 AFR
Still getting car dialed in, hoping i can attend some events soon, but i am in no rush, i want to get this perfect
Just make sure to sit in a parking lot for a bit as make sure that the numbers line up. You might have to fiddle with the values to get the slope right.
responding to the 3 emails:
1) timing marks pic looks about right. hard to see despite the clear pic. did the offset change from before? if so, what is the current value? previous was -8
2) I'll find the thread later, but you already get the general concept: use those values you quoted from Brain (they are what AEM puts in their instructions IIRC), and then very carefully in tiny steps alter the upper and/or lower values to essentially manipulate the curve so that the physical gauge matches the gauge in TS
3) good. should no longer overboost.
Been crazy busy just got home, sent you the next VladiTune revision
responding to the 3 emails:
1) timing marks pic looks about right. hard to see despite the clear pic. did the offset change from before? if so, what is the current value? previous was -8
2) I'll find the thread later, but you already get the general concept: use those values you quoted from Brain (they are what AEM puts in their instructions IIRC), and then very carefully in tiny steps alter the upper and/or lower values to essentially manipulate the curve so that the physical gauge matches the gauge in TS
3) good. should no longer overboost.
Been crazy busy just got home, sent you the next VladiTune revision
Thanks for the quick turn around anyways, this is still worlds apart from the support i would receive around my area.
1) offset did not change from before (-8) timing was already synced - lucky af?
2) will do regarding the afr /gauge changes. I'll have another log with the info you requested sometime today so we can get the rest dialed in.
Bought the other two tires and mounted the wheels! Really surprised i didn't have to adjust my height or have any rubbing anywhere, I'm sure that might change when i decide to drop it a little more.
Car currently has a 10 foot paint job that looks great, not good enough for me - i plan to respray the outside once more very soon.
Car currently has a 10 foot paint job that looks great, not good enough for me - i plan to respray the outside once more very soon.
How about a different idea. Go drive the car now that it appears to be running and enjoy it. Then in the winter when it gets cold, bring the car back inside and spray it then.
How about a different idea. Go drive the car now that it appears to be running and enjoy it. Then in the winter when it gets cold, bring the car back inside and spray it then.
You right
Will be sending you an e-mail for those VVT bits, still missing them :( Would like to do that aswell over winter