A trip to the dyno killed off my Garrett 2860rs. The spud has a .64/.60 housings. I've found a new chra for $450 but I'm thinking I'd like something a little smaller as the car is my auto-x toy. Aiming for 200ish hp. So given max budget of $450 what would you reccomend?


FYI didn't select the spud it came as a package when got the car (it was a roller with everything else in boxes).
And no I'm not going to get a 1.8.....yet.....

Thanks in advance!

 

If you could find a 2854 super core that would bolt into your 2860, and spool faster. Alternatively, look for a used 2554 or 2560.

You could also get a 2554 supercore, and put your wheel on it and have it balanced.

 

I'd love a supercore but I've only seen then in the $1000 range.....

I see you you have a shanghai so china turbo? How is the reliability? If I can find a t25/t28 china turbo that has the right specs I'd consider it. Im at the point where done is better than perfect.

 

TWO USED TURBOS IN THE fs ADS...

 

Used Mazdaspeed IHI turbo? Probably cheap, but you need the manifold and a different charge pipe. And they are a definite downgrade, but you might still make 200 power.

edit: nvm, 1.6

 

https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par.../#&gid=1&pid=7

These? He sold em. I couldn't get em fast enough.

 

awe crap

 

Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/112397138188
That is reasonably close to a 2560. If you look harder, you can find one that measures closer.

 

I have what I believe is a t28r(basically a 2560) from sr20 I picked up when my 1.6 was turbo but only ran it for a about 100 miles before I found my engine was blown. Its been sitting in my shop bc Ive been too lazy to post for sale add. I can take recent pics later today.

 

Sent you a pm!

 

Thanks everyone for the input. I just ordered a new CHRA for the spud. It may not be the ideal turbo for my goals but having a basically brand new spud seems the smartest choice for selling/trading/keeping.... A blown turbo is all but useless, a new turbo however... A good condition, no shaft play used turbo is what got me into this mess and I'd hate to do it a 2nd time.

Im thinking, I should just run the spud for now. I've had zero seat time in the car tuned making boost, I'm really dying to enjoy this car. If the spud totally sucks which I suspect it may, I can always swap it over the winter with exactly what I want, I'm sure after driving the spud I'll get a better feel for exactly which I'd like best between the 2554 and 2560which is a big debate right now anyway.

 

I dont think it will.

At the end of the day, the potato is a pretty decent turbo. The only thing truly limiting your response is the larger t28 turbine. I never hated my journal bearing 2854, it responded fine. I know the 54mm compressor wheel helped with that.

Here is the thing, the 2860 is the bastard child for the miata world. It is good for high 200 to low 300s. When most folks build their engine, they go with the 2871, which is a better 350whp turbo. When folks build their engines, they always want a little more head room.

The 2860 is a bit much for a stock engine, but not quite enough for what most people want out of a built set up. That being said, it is spectacular on a sr20, a good low 300whp turbo for the nissan guys, and i couldnt see it being terrible on a miata. Youll probably have your boost by 3500, and be making your power with less heat, and have a more robust top end than a 2560.

Tl;dr, unless you are one of those people that wants all the boost at 2500 rpm, youll be fine.

 

Did you go GTX for the new CHRA?

--Ian

 

That's what I'm hoping! I'm sure when I make the jump from solo to hpde I'll like this turbo quite a bit for the reasons you mentioned. I definitely don't have aspiration for 300+. I figure run it for the rest of summer and if I hate it, that's what the off season (winter) is for! The pull before it blew the car made 206/194 on a mustang, and pulled nice to redline. I have to imagine the final tune will be a blast to drive, even if not ideal for autocross.

As a side thought I was considering picking up a WI kit just for safety, kinda a round about way to keep the stock rods safer. Knowing what I now know I'd of done rods, but I don't see myself going back for them now... If add forged rods it'll be in a 1.8.

 

No the RS chra was $460 the GTX was too rich for my blood at $1200.
Anyone in a similar predicament Grant at http://m.turbokits.com was great to deal with.

 

$460 is a heck of a deal imo...