Please not another crankcase ventilation thread.
#201
No on the EFR. We actually have 2 cars with similar issues.
Both B6 with Chinachargers.
Car A
Motor rebuilt 3000 miles ago, 180ish compression
T3 turbo with .48 a/r hotside
Oil feed restrictor (not sure on size, looks about a 1/16th)
5/8 ID hose for the drain
3/8 hose from PCV to catch can
3/8 hose with check valve from intake to catch can
Air filter/breather on the exhaust side VC port
Around 17psi of boost
Car B
Motor rebuilt a few hundred miles ago, compression in the 180s as well.
GT2871 Churbo
No restrictor
5/8 ID hose for the drain
3/8 hose from PCV to catch can, vented
Air filter/breather on the exhaust side VC port
Around 18-19psi of boost
So more or less similar setups, but both cars have an issue with smoking after boost, due to excessive crankcase pressure is my theory. I think enlarging the holes on the VC is the way to solve this, but I am not sure. Input?
Oil seal, piston ring seal on the shaft, whatever you want to call it.
Both B6 with Chinachargers.
Car A
Motor rebuilt 3000 miles ago, 180ish compression
T3 turbo with .48 a/r hotside
Oil feed restrictor (not sure on size, looks about a 1/16th)
5/8 ID hose for the drain
3/8 hose from PCV to catch can
3/8 hose with check valve from intake to catch can
Air filter/breather on the exhaust side VC port
Around 17psi of boost
Car B
Motor rebuilt a few hundred miles ago, compression in the 180s as well.
GT2871 Churbo
No restrictor
5/8 ID hose for the drain
3/8 hose from PCV to catch can, vented
Air filter/breather on the exhaust side VC port
Around 18-19psi of boost
So more or less similar setups, but both cars have an issue with smoking after boost, due to excessive crankcase pressure is my theory. I think enlarging the holes on the VC is the way to solve this, but I am not sure. Input?
Oil seal, piston ring seal on the shaft, whatever you want to call it.
#202
Went ahead drilled out a spare valve cover.
Exhaust side baffle before
Enlarged to 1/2" and added another hole connecting to center baffle
Drilled and tapped exhaust side port with 3/8" npt, installed 5/8" hose barb fitting
The cover had a crack in the front as it came out of a wreck
Chopped it, tapped PCV hole with 1/2" npt
Cleaned it and reinstalled the baffles
Primed, ready for paint tomorrow
Exhaust side baffle before
Enlarged to 1/2" and added another hole connecting to center baffle
Drilled and tapped exhaust side port with 3/8" npt, installed 5/8" hose barb fitting
The cover had a crack in the front as it came out of a wreck
Chopped it, tapped PCV hole with 1/2" npt
Cleaned it and reinstalled the baffles
Primed, ready for paint tomorrow
#203
Here's my slightly different approach to the same thing.
I drilled out the existing baffle hole to 3/8" and added a second.
I plugged the passenger side and used the factory driver's side nipple to a simple vented catch can. I've never had to drain the catch can. I honestly think the the steel wool I used is the key. It's the coarse ribbon type and I only had it in part of the first chamber to give the oil mist something to collect on
I drilled out the existing baffle hole to 3/8" and added a second.
I plugged the passenger side and used the factory driver's side nipple to a simple vented catch can. I've never had to drain the catch can. I honestly think the the steel wool I used is the key. It's the coarse ribbon type and I only had it in part of the first chamber to give the oil mist something to collect on
#207
This was preemptive since I was adding the turbo. This is also a "race car" in that I didn't care if I needed to change the oil often as my street driving consisted of tuning and the odd trip to work.
In my application the flow is simply around the rings and out the valve cover. I was not introducing oily air to the intake tract. The driver's side baffle was two chambers so I just went with that side and planned to expand if I saw signs of crankcase pressure. So far I've seen no evidence of a problem other than the oil smells of fuel in 3k miles. Normally my track days are less than a 1000 miles apart so it's a non issue.
For a street car I would add the pcv back in the factory config but switch to a PCV that sealed under boost. The flow on the driver's side would be into the valve cover under cruise and out under boost.
In my application the flow is simply around the rings and out the valve cover. I was not introducing oily air to the intake tract. The driver's side baffle was two chambers so I just went with that side and planned to expand if I saw signs of crankcase pressure. So far I've seen no evidence of a problem other than the oil smells of fuel in 3k miles. Normally my track days are less than a 1000 miles apart so it's a non issue.
For a street car I would add the pcv back in the factory config but switch to a PCV that sealed under boost. The flow on the driver's side would be into the valve cover under cruise and out under boost.
#208
I cringe every time I see real steel wool being used. Copper is easy to find and a lot easier for your engine to eat, if it did.
Passenger side is the side of the valve cover that oil can pool and have a hard time draining. Using it often results excessive oil consumption/caught in catch can.
Passenger side is the side of the valve cover that oil can pool and have a hard time draining. Using it often results excessive oil consumption/caught in catch can.
#209
I cringe every time I see real steel wool being used. Copper is easy to find and a lot easier for your engine to eat, if it did.
Passenger side is the side of the valve cover that oil can pool and have a hard time draining. Using it often results excessive oil consumption/caught in catch can.
Passenger side is the side of the valve cover that oil can pool and have a hard time draining. Using it often results excessive oil consumption/caught in catch can.
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DIY Turbo Discussion
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10-27-2015 01:16 AM