NB1: Morimoto HID or NB2 Projectors?
#61
I'm not sure on that one. The switchbacks I have on my car are the 1157 XB Switchbacks with resistors wired inline on the signal wire. I didn't try them without the resistors, so I can't say for sure if that would make a difference.
Then the lights are off and you turn on the signals, does it flash white or amber?
Then the lights are off and you turn on the signals, does it flash white or amber?
#63
But these appear to only be able to be installed one way. The "keyed" nubs on the side of the bulb are at different heights.
I'll try another pair and see what happens. I bought 4 pairs.
#64
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I thought about that, since i've had some issues with that when i converted most of my Montero interior bulbs to LED.
But these appear to only be able to be installed one way. The "keyed" nubs on the side of the bulb are at different heights.
I'll try another pair and see what happens. I bought 4 pairs.
But these appear to only be able to be installed one way. The "keyed" nubs on the side of the bulb are at different heights.
I'll try another pair and see what happens. I bought 4 pairs.
As far as I can tell, switchbacks are around $40 a pair.
#65
See post 49. I hope I did not lead you astray. What I thought were switchbacks, because they came up when I searched for "switchback" on TRS website, were in fact only an older version of a white, LED replacement bulb.
As far as I can tell, switchbacks are around $40 a pair.
As far as I can tell, switchbacks are around $40 a pair.
#66
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Got the job done. D2S. Was not bad at all. I dd over-cut the shrouds a bit, so that up close you see a little black reflected out, but from 3 feet, it is not noticeable. Light is amazing.
I also removed the amber cylinders and used chrome covered, amber bulbs. So when they are off, there is no yellow showing at all.
With HID's in, lenses polished and covered with Lamin-X film. Interested to see how the film performs.
Shows ballast mounted to sheetmetal with (3) self-drilling screws, as well as the relay. Other side is similar.
I also removed the amber cylinders and used chrome covered, amber bulbs. So when they are off, there is no yellow showing at all.
With HID's in, lenses polished and covered with Lamin-X film. Interested to see how the film performs.
Shows ballast mounted to sheetmetal with (3) self-drilling screws, as well as the relay. Other side is similar.
#68
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Question for others that have done FRS Retrofit:
Coincidentally, my brights on annuciator no longer works. Looking at the wiring diagram for the ‘99, it appears that there is12V GROUND on both sides of the bulb when no headlight low filament is in the circuit.
Others seen this?
Has anyone solved it?
Coincidentally, my brights on annuciator no longer works. Looking at the wiring diagram for the ‘99, it appears that there is
Others seen this?
Has anyone solved it?
Last edited by DNMakinson; 10-31-2017 at 08:00 PM. Reason: 12V should have said ground
#71
my 99 high beam signal doesnt work. For some reason I presumed it was the bulb in the dash being burnt out. Never bothered me enough to look into as its fairly obvious the difference in high and low when driving. Time to dig up the wiring diagram and put it on the "winter projects" list.
edit: Here is the wiring to a 1999... its too late for me to be thinking on why the indicator wont work.. will read comments tomorrow
A 2000 miata diagram looks similar at glance
edit: Here is the wiring to a 1999... its too late for me to be thinking on why the indicator wont work.. will read comments tomorrow
A 2000 miata diagram looks similar at glance
Last edited by Padlock; 11-01-2017 at 01:14 AM.
#73
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I unplugged the controller and put in (1) halogen bulb. High beam indicator returned to working. I will contact TRS to see if they have a recommendation.
Also, I still don't think my original explanation is correct.
If you look at Padlock's diagram, what is not showing on the Red/Yel is a relay that makes the GRN and the R/Y at the center terminal of each bulb hot (12V) when the switch is set to headlights. If on low, the Red goes through the LO contact and pulls the low beam filaments to ground and so they turn on (+12 at R/Y or GRN, Gnd at R). It also puts both sides of the Indicator at Ground.
When the beam switch either constant at HI, or at FLASH, RED open circuits and WHT is tied to Ground. But the low beam filament backfeeds from the center terminal to put 12V on the open red wire node. This lights the Indicator. Since an incandescent filament has low resistance when not incandescing, the 12V lights the indicator.
I have looked at the Y2000 wiring diagram, and it seems to be the same setup for NON-DRL set-ups. If either year has DRL, then I have no idea how the extra control circuits affect thing.
Also, I still don't think my original explanation is correct.
If you look at Padlock's diagram, what is not showing on the Red/Yel is a relay that makes the GRN and the R/Y at the center terminal of each bulb hot (12V) when the switch is set to headlights. If on low, the Red goes through the LO contact and pulls the low beam filaments to ground and so they turn on (+12 at R/Y or GRN, Gnd at R). It also puts both sides of the Indicator at Ground.
When the beam switch either constant at HI, or at FLASH, RED open circuits and WHT is tied to Ground. But the low beam filament backfeeds from the center terminal to put 12V on the open red wire node. This lights the Indicator. Since an incandescent filament has low resistance when not incandescing, the 12V lights the indicator.
I have looked at the Y2000 wiring diagram, and it seems to be the same setup for NON-DRL set-ups. If either year has DRL, then I have no idea how the extra control circuits affect thing.
Last edited by DNMakinson; 11-04-2017 at 02:59 PM.
#74
A quick and dirty would be to introduce a relay. Coil fed with ignition controlled positive and connected to the HIGH terminal of the headlight switch to provide switched ground (may need a diode in here to stop strange headlight behaviour - I have not tested).
Disconnect the indicator light from the headlight, connect it to one side of the relay switched contacts and the other side of the contacts to the same ignition controlled positive.
This will not work with DRL equipped cars because a) the DRL is in the way and b) the cluster circuit is physically different (although it's a simple mod to change it).
Disconnect the indicator light from the headlight, connect it to one side of the relay switched contacts and the other side of the contacts to the same ignition controlled positive.
This will not work with DRL equipped cars because a) the DRL is in the way and b) the cluster circuit is physically different (although it's a simple mod to change it).
#75
So I have not had this issue. I'm guessing it's because of how I have the high beam solenoid wired.
I simply ran the two leads from the solenoid in the projectors to the ground and high beam power on the existing bulb plugs. That way, the car see's power is flowing through the high beam circuit and lights up the indicator in the cluster.
High beam solenoid has power to lower shields and your high beam indicator in the cluster works.
I simply ran the two leads from the solenoid in the projectors to the ground and high beam power on the existing bulb plugs. That way, the car see's power is flowing through the high beam circuit and lights up the indicator in the cluster.
High beam solenoid has power to lower shields and your high beam indicator in the cluster works.
#80
Which shrouds did you go with?
-B
-B
Got the job done. D2S. Was not bad at all. I dd over-cut the shrouds a bit, so that up close you see a little black reflected out, but from 3 feet, it is not noticeable. Light is amazing.
I also removed the amber cylinders and used chrome covered, amber bulbs. So when they are off, there is no yellow showing at all.
With HID's in, lenses polished and covered with Lamin-X film. Interested to see how the film performs.
Shows ballast mounted to sheetmetal with (3) self-drilling screws, as well as the relay. Other side is similar.
I also removed the amber cylinders and used chrome covered, amber bulbs. So when they are off, there is no yellow showing at all.
With HID's in, lenses polished and covered with Lamin-X film. Interested to see how the film performs.
Shows ballast mounted to sheetmetal with (3) self-drilling screws, as well as the relay. Other side is similar.