Whacks with a 5 pound sledge havent budged it.

The harbor frieght press is not strong enough (surpassed the limits of its metallurgy)

been soaking it in aerokroil for two days.

i need a big torch, yes?

 

yup, torch

 

Last one I did used the harbor freight ball joint separator and an impact wrench. The impact wrench was key. We broke one separator with just a wrench, but the impact got it right out. Also grease the threads of the separator.

 

Hit the knuckle perpendicular to the threads. It will pop right out.

 

Put the separator on, tighten it as far as you're willing, then hit the knuckle with a sledge. (Your aim needs to be Thor like)

 

this. Even got the giant joints loose on my f250.

 

I got the max heat map gas torch from home depot.

i dont have air tools, so i will grease the threads on the hf separator, thats the exact one i have aiden.

so first ill use the separator, greased, with hammer.

If that doesnt work, ill add the torch, as a last resort.

thanks everyone for your suggestions, I am happy you all stopped in to help.

 

They make electric impact wrenches too. Ask to borrow Ed's.

 

Also, leave the castelated nut on a little bit so that when it breaks free you don't shoot yer ***** off.

 

Haha, yes, I did think of this when I was using the press.

I just bought the dewalt impact (probably will return after I use it lol) so I think I'll be able to make quick work of the balljoints now, using all these tips.

 

When all else fails I'll apply pressure separating the joint (separator or most often a large pry-bar).
LEAVE the mounting nut a 1/4 inch loose.
Vibrate the flange that the tapered shaft is stuck in with an air-hammer with a hammer shaped bit on a fairly low setting (so control is easy).
It takes much less violence this way...
You don't break suspension parts or fingers this way when your aim is not "Thor like" which I have trouble with...
I've never failed to remove stuck tapered shaft this way.
I'll do it this way before applying heat as the rubber boots don't like heat.
Only problem here is no air.
I have had luck torqueing a separator down super tight, leave it overnight, and come back to a separated joint in AM.
Good luck.

 

Thanks everyone for your input.

I used the electric impact on the separator, then whacked the knuckle real hard, and BANG out came both ball joints!

It was like a shotgun lol

 

Back when I worked at a machine shop, the one guy was doing wheel bearings on his Audi. 20ton shop press and heat and man, the sound that made when it let go had us all running for cover.

 

I usually resort to two heavy hammers when the tapered end is stuck.
Hold one against one side of the ear and whack it with the other.
This way you transfer most of the impact to the other hammer and your hammering becomes much more effective, otherwise the suspension takes some of the blow.
Like this:

 

^good tip. I need another hammer. I have a 5 pound short sledge, and a plastic/rubber mallet.

 

Hold a ball peen hammer against the up right and hit it with the heavy hammer, you can swing harder without risk of hitting something you don't want too.

 

5lb hammers are cute. Do yourself a favor and buy a 12lb sledge.

 

Ninja safety tip: Never hit a hardened hammer with another hardened hammer. Big sharp flakes/chunks can come off the hammers at high speed. Using a hammer on the backside of the part to increase mass is a very good idea and safe. Using hammer on hammer is only safe if one of the hammers is soft (usually brass/bronze).
My payment for this knowledge was blood...

 

I've worked in garages for many many years and seen it always done this way numerous times, and have deone it myself numerous times, never heard of a hammer flaking off chunks of steel, especially the round end on a ball peen hammer, When swinging a 12# sledge hammer and you miss by just a small amount you can do alot of damage where you don't need it. I would quit buying china hammers.