TSE EFR NB2 Build Thread
#709
Dunno anything about Gloc pads. Looking up the specs on it, sounds like it shouldn't be fading (1800F temperature range), but dunno. I can say that with all of my brake woes, fading pads (DTC-60) is not one of them.
You have TSE 11.75s and sport rears? Were you running the same compound in each?
Runout on the rotors? Iffy bearings will also cause pad knockback.
--Ian
You have TSE 11.75s and sport rears? Were you running the same compound in each?
Runout on the rotors? Iffy bearings will also cause pad knockback.
--Ian
#711
It's easy enough to check runout. Get a dial indicator and a magnetic base (the cheap ones from harbor freight are fine for this purpose), screw on a couple of lugnuts to stop the rotor from flopping around, attach the magnetic base to the upright and put the dial indicator against the rotor. Spin it and see how far it wanders. You can take the rotor off and do the same thing to the hub as well.
How does the pad transfer layer look?
--Ian
How does the pad transfer layer look?
--Ian
#713
^ I don't know for sure, but that looks blue and scuffed to me, like they got too hot during break in? Dunno.
I always get really poor results when I try to break in the proper way. Terrible pedal softness and travel.
Just driving the car normally seems to get a nice grey transfer layer, so I stopped the recommended procedure.
I always get really poor results when I try to break in the proper way. Terrible pedal softness and travel.
Just driving the car normally seems to get a nice grey transfer layer, so I stopped the recommended procedure.