99 Miata Turbo Build
#21
Yay for another EFR setup!!
For the oil/coolant lines, reference the EFR training document for the proper sizing and fittings, it has all the information you could possibly imagine in there.
http://www.full-race.com/articles/efrturbotechbrief.pdf
As for intercooler, the one posted from amazon is a solid choice, if you wish to do an over radiator setup, you can use this core here-
cxracing.com: CXRacing Intercooler for Mitsubishi Starion Chrysler Dodge Plymouth Conquest
Something to be conscious of with the Fab9 setup, the DP may make contact with the steering shaft, happened with mine and a few others as well. Bryan was more than willing to accept the DP back and basically just bend it in the area that was in contact. I personally marked mine prior to sending it back to him so he knew where it was making contact.
Boost is relative, so saying that you are going to stay below 15psi to keep your motor safe is a bit silly and there are too many factors that need to be taken into account when trying to keep the motor healthy. Put a small spring in your wg, keep boost/ tq low, do a compression test prior to your swap so you know where you are starting.
For the oil/coolant lines, reference the EFR training document for the proper sizing and fittings, it has all the information you could possibly imagine in there.
http://www.full-race.com/articles/efrturbotechbrief.pdf
As for intercooler, the one posted from amazon is a solid choice, if you wish to do an over radiator setup, you can use this core here-
cxracing.com: CXRacing Intercooler for Mitsubishi Starion Chrysler Dodge Plymouth Conquest
Something to be conscious of with the Fab9 setup, the DP may make contact with the steering shaft, happened with mine and a few others as well. Bryan was more than willing to accept the DP back and basically just bend it in the area that was in contact. I personally marked mine prior to sending it back to him so he knew where it was making contact.
Boost is relative, so saying that you are going to stay below 15psi to keep your motor safe is a bit silly and there are too many factors that need to be taken into account when trying to keep the motor healthy. Put a small spring in your wg, keep boost/ tq low, do a compression test prior to your swap so you know where you are starting.
#22
Yay for another EFR setup!!
For the oil/coolant lines, reference the EFR training document for the proper sizing and fittings, it has all the information you could possibly imagine in there.
http://www.full-race.com/articles/efrturbotechbrief.pdf
As for intercooler, the one posted from amazon is a solid choice, if you wish to do an over radiator setup, you can use this core here-
cxracing.com: CXRacing Intercooler for Mitsubishi Starion Chrysler Dodge Plymouth Conquest
Something to be conscious of with the Fab9 setup, the DP may make contact with the steering shaft, happened with mine and a few others as well. Bryan was more than willing to accept the DP back and basically just bend it in the area that was in contact. I personally marked mine prior to sending it back to him so he knew where it was making contact.
Boost is relative, so saying that you are going to stay below 15psi to keep your motor safe is a bit silly and there are too many factors that need to be taken into account when trying to keep the motor healthy. Put a small spring in your wg, keep boost/ tq low, do a compression test prior to your swap so you know where you are starting.
For the oil/coolant lines, reference the EFR training document for the proper sizing and fittings, it has all the information you could possibly imagine in there.
http://www.full-race.com/articles/efrturbotechbrief.pdf
As for intercooler, the one posted from amazon is a solid choice, if you wish to do an over radiator setup, you can use this core here-
cxracing.com: CXRacing Intercooler for Mitsubishi Starion Chrysler Dodge Plymouth Conquest
Something to be conscious of with the Fab9 setup, the DP may make contact with the steering shaft, happened with mine and a few others as well. Bryan was more than willing to accept the DP back and basically just bend it in the area that was in contact. I personally marked mine prior to sending it back to him so he knew where it was making contact.
Boost is relative, so saying that you are going to stay below 15psi to keep your motor safe is a bit silly and there are too many factors that need to be taken into account when trying to keep the motor healthy. Put a small spring in your wg, keep boost/ tq low, do a compression test prior to your swap so you know where you are starting.
Before I decided to go turbo I ran a compression test and my engine is healthy and strong the car just have 51k miles and I really take care of it and it looks like the previous owner did to. Obviusly there is way more variables that only boost, so thats why I have been upgrading stuff like cooling etc... I want to enjoy the car and not being in the shop all the time but I think that it wouldnt be nothing near safe to run a figure like 20psi on a stock engine, the chances of something going wrong increases when boost does because of the stress that parts suffer during that process, psi is not the only way to measure that but I think it is a pretty general way to do it if you are doing everything right (upgrading what needs to be upgraded, using quality producs, doing a proper installation work etc) and that is exactly what I want to do.
Thanks a lot for your advice!
#25
Good to know, when I said relocate I meant if it (the rad) have to be moved further back to the point it needs new mounting hardware, I have been looking into it and I can see that yes I will need to move the rad a little bit further back and down. Nothing too bad, I think I am gonna go that way.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#26
****UPDATE****
Today one of the most important parts of my setup came on the mail, the manifold (and downpipe), Fab9 took a little (a lot) more than expected but its seems like they have fixed the fitment issue by changing the design of the manifold itself, anyway it looks like an awesome product and after this is just the intercooler the only thing left to buy. I am going to wait until January or February to work on the car since my daily decided to blow up and I had to use some of the Miata money to get another daily, **** happens.
#28
Former Vendor
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Posts: 15,442
Total Cats: 2,104
You're going to want to brace the EWG, the hater pipe will resonate and break the EWG off the manifold eventually. Recirc would solve that problem too. I loved my VTA EWG setup on my ABSURDflow manifold years and years and years ago, but it lasted like two events.
#29
I guess its time for an update.
I have got the last few components needed for my installation now and I am just waiting the right moment to move the car to a friends of mine garage (since I dont have one myself). You may have seen him on 1320 he owns a really fast black Civic. Anyway I am quite behind in progress since my daily driver gave up, so since winter is obviously here I had to get myself a new daily with the money that I was going to use on the car. Now I have recollected just enough to get back to work but I had to reduce my plans a little bit. I should be working on the car and posting a lot more updates in the next few weeks, a friend of mine and I will make a series of videos to show the progress of the project. I would appreciate your support and input.
See you all soon.
I have got the last few components needed for my installation now and I am just waiting the right moment to move the car to a friends of mine garage (since I dont have one myself). You may have seen him on 1320 he owns a really fast black Civic. Anyway I am quite behind in progress since my daily driver gave up, so since winter is obviously here I had to get myself a new daily with the money that I was going to use on the car. Now I have recollected just enough to get back to work but I had to reduce my plans a little bit. I should be working on the car and posting a lot more updates in the next few weeks, a friend of mine and I will make a series of videos to show the progress of the project. I would appreciate your support and input.
See you all soon.
#30
The build have begun. The last parts arrived last week so this week have seen a lot of progress, last night well at this point 2 nights ago my friends and I began to work on the install of the turbo system, We began by putting the manifold on turbo on, that was pretty straigth foward and everything worked as expected up to that point, then the oil pan was drilled really scary process but it went well, I got all my lines custom made by a friend in a local shop here in Indy and they were ready to go. We used a sandwich plate as oil feed for the turbo and then the return line went into the oil pan then I gold wrapped some lines on the hot side and shortly after this we positioned the downpipe, with no problems at all, everything looked good at this point but then we realized that the wideband sensor would not fit in the place it should have been so we had to do some fabrication in order to move the sensor way up, that went quite easy as well but later we realized that the V-band that came with the downpipe/turbo/manifold wasnt big enough and it was quite lateit took us a while to figure something out but at the end we made it work with some modifications then we hooked the downpipe and it was beautiful nothing was hitting anything. After this we installed the fan shroud (pretty straightfoward) and the oil catch can. Later we hooked up the intercooler (real easy), installed the wastegate, did a hole on the hood (anotha one) and did the plumbing.
I have also installed new wheels and tires
Last night we kept going, we installed gauges (boost and oil temp), cleaned up everything, used a lot of zip ties for stuff, disconnected the maf and put a filter on the turbo. Tomorrow the clutch is going in.
So far the only things left are Piping, Clutch, ECU install and tuning
I do have an ATI harmonic balancer and I am not sure if I really need it. I am planning on pushing 280hp but I would like to hear some opinions on this matter.
Some pictures of the progress
I have also installed new wheels and tires
Last night we kept going, we installed gauges (boost and oil temp), cleaned up everything, used a lot of zip ties for stuff, disconnected the maf and put a filter on the turbo. Tomorrow the clutch is going in.
So far the only things left are Piping, Clutch, ECU install and tuning
I do have an ATI harmonic balancer and I am not sure if I really need it. I am planning on pushing 280hp but I would like to hear some opinions on this matter.
Some pictures of the progress
#32
Thanks!
#33
The flanged adapter prevents oil from sitting in the bearing section and reduces the likelihood of oil pushing into the compressor housing. Sounded like a stretch to me but the advise came from full race when my turbo started pushing oil. If nothing more it helped, I only got a short test run after swapping over. I've talked to 3 others that have oil in the compressor housings.
The damper is not necessary but not a bad idea, I am also running supertech valve springs, a MSM intake cam, flat top intake manifold and a coolant re-route. None of those modifications are necessary but all help in their own ways.
I plan to keep the bottom end stock for another year by keeping the boost conservative and keeping a close eye on everything, I have a backup engine just in case.
The damper is not necessary but not a bad idea, I am also running supertech valve springs, a MSM intake cam, flat top intake manifold and a coolant re-route. None of those modifications are necessary but all help in their own ways.
I plan to keep the bottom end stock for another year by keeping the boost conservative and keeping a close eye on everything, I have a backup engine just in case.
#34
So thats why, that happened to me just now, thanks for the explanation man. I like your plan, mines is similar but yours is defintely better better, I saw that flat top intake manifold, really nice, they are hard to find though, what I did on my car on that matter is updgrade the throttle body to a 64mm Skunk2 . The msm intake cam is a great idea. Cooling wise I was thinking on doing the coolant re-route but instead I did some hood louvers, intstalled a bigger radiator and heavy duty fans, I hope those control the heat issue, if not I will do the coolan re-route. I would like to get 280hp out of the engine but I do want to be conservative on boost, the truth is I dont use this car very much and most of the time I use it for sunday drives 10-11psi would be more than enough for that but if I want a little more power I would like to be able to turn up with the boost a bit. I know the engine is going to blow up eventually but just as you I would like to enjoy it as much as I can on its current conditon. I will keep an eye on it to.
I would like to know how you routed your intercooler piping and thanks man
I would like to know how you routed your intercooler piping and thanks man
#39
The car is finished and running. It was tuned for 13psi and it is working amazing so far, a little loud but that is because it doesnt have an exhaust lol. There are some still some stuff I want to do like a water methanol injection, for now it will stay pretty much the way it is. I also used all this time to do some other mods as well. Here are some pictures of the car.