Trackspeed build plan
#343
I pulled the trigger on the hood, door, bumper and fender for $1,000. I am getting ripped off but the color was condition was perfect right down to the appropriate amount of scratches. I swapped the hood and door on. Need to get the fender and bumper cover tomorrow. There will be some tweaking and adjusting but overall I think it will be on the ground after a get some hood pins and the radiator pressure checked.
Last edited by farpolemiddle; 03-06-2017 at 10:16 PM.
#345
It is only cheap because I am skipping doing it right. If I did it right it would be a lot more money and effort. I am going to leave the rad support cut out. I also may have to convert the turn signals into headlights and do the rivet thing with the headlight covers. the rad support took so much of the crash that it actually pulled the inner fender supports in as well. I will have to spread those out somehow as well.
#347
It is only cheap because I am skipping doing it right. If I did it right it would be a lot more money and effort. I am going to leave the rad support cut out. I also may have to convert the turn signals into headlights and do the rivet thing with the headlight covers. the rad support took so much of the crash that it actually pulled the inner fender supports in as well. I will have to spread those out somehow as well.
I wonder how hard it is to (cleanly) cut it out. I have a parts car that was rear ended, if my rad support is straight (it was an r-title car, so I'm not 100% sure), I'd be willing to cut it out and ship it. You'd have to weld it back in, or maybe rivet it.
#348
Seems like a rad support would work pretty well to spread that out
I wonder how hard it is to (cleanly) cut it out. I have a parts car that was rear ended, if my rad support is straight (it was an r-title car, so I'm not 100% sure), I'd be willing to cut it out and ship it. You'd have to weld it back in, or maybe rivet it.
I wonder how hard it is to (cleanly) cut it out. I have a parts car that was rear ended, if my rad support is straight (it was an r-title car, so I'm not 100% sure), I'd be willing to cut it out and ship it. You'd have to weld it back in, or maybe rivet it.
#350
So this is where I am at now. I have a solution for most of it but this is giving me ****. The radiator support took all of it and stopped the car. The passenger side seams to be the worst where it collapsed in. This shifted the still functioning headlights in. I am leaning towards getting a slide hammer and pulling on things until it is closer. Advice?
#353
I am thinking that I could just put the new fender on minus the front bolt which should not line up. Measure how far off the bracket is off from the fender. Pull the fender and aidandj away with a chain. I have hood pins and some latches on the way. I am going to use pins behind the headlight and two latched from the hood to the front bumper to keep all that together. Upside to all this is I should have a bunch of room to mount and oil cooler now. Dropped the radiator off for pressure testing. ****** was a little dinged but man is it a trooper of a radiator.
#355
Can anyone think of a reason why I should not just cut this the rest of the way out? I need the mount circled in blue for the radiator and the front fender bolt but the cuts made in red to remove the section in orange does not really have a job anymore. The radiator mount doesn't look like it needs to be super stout or that front fender section.
#356
Have you looked to see what those parts cost? Having done it myself, the only option for me would be remove the two parts and install new ones. As flimsy as they appear, together they add a lot of rigidity to the car, and could make the car unsafe in an accident without them.
Edit: Also, replacing the parts properly would enhance the value of the car tremendously.
Edit: Also, replacing the parts properly would enhance the value of the car tremendously.