Seeking MS3x wiring advice
#1
Seeking MS3x wiring advice
Seeking advice on wiring wideband a/f gauge to MS3x.
I'm getting to the point in my build where it's time to wire up the MegaSquirt 3x. This is my first experience with it and I'm seeking some wiring advice. I've already searched hi and low on this forum and the interwebs and I haven't seen a definitive answer. So I thought I'd ask the group.
This MS3x was originally installed on a 2000 NB. The PO used an Innovate Lambda controller with the wideband O2 sensor and the O2 sensor harness was spliced to the ECU connector bus via the yellow wire (indicated at the top of the picture 1 [LCS]). The yellow wire from the LCS was the only wire spliced into the yellow wire of the small harness (shown in picture 2).
For my build (1993 GReddy turbo built engine - Eagle rods/Wiseco pistons/race bearings, etc.), I am using six ProSport Halo gauges, including an analog (sweeping) wideband A/F gauge with a proprietary controller.
My question is this - which wire do I splice from the -Output Signal- harness to the connector on the MegaSquirt? I'm assuming it's the green wire, as indicated in the instructions (picture 3).
Additionally, is there anywhere I can splice the brown wire for datalogging via the MS?
I'm getting to the point in my build where it's time to wire up the MegaSquirt 3x. This is my first experience with it and I'm seeking some wiring advice. I've already searched hi and low on this forum and the interwebs and I haven't seen a definitive answer. So I thought I'd ask the group.
This MS3x was originally installed on a 2000 NB. The PO used an Innovate Lambda controller with the wideband O2 sensor and the O2 sensor harness was spliced to the ECU connector bus via the yellow wire (indicated at the top of the picture 1 [LCS]). The yellow wire from the LCS was the only wire spliced into the yellow wire of the small harness (shown in picture 2).
For my build (1993 GReddy turbo built engine - Eagle rods/Wiseco pistons/race bearings, etc.), I am using six ProSport Halo gauges, including an analog (sweeping) wideband A/F gauge with a proprietary controller.
My question is this - which wire do I splice from the -Output Signal- harness to the connector on the MegaSquirt? I'm assuming it's the green wire, as indicated in the instructions (picture 3).
Additionally, is there anywhere I can splice the brown wire for datalogging via the MS?
#5
Thank you all for your prompt and thoughtful replies. They answered exactly the question I was asking.
I thought I saw all of B&B's videos, but I obviously missed this one.
Thanks for explaining. I didn't realize one wire is narrowband and the other is wideband. The video above indicated that, too.
All the gauges, including the A/F Ratiometer are already wired up with the exception of the output signal harness from the wideband.
The only gauge issue remaining is that now that I've installed the SETRAB oil cooler and sandwich plate, I don't have a port for my oil temp sensor.
FYI - the gauges I'm running are (top 3) A/F ratiometer, boost, EGT, (bottom 3) oil temp, fuel pressure and voltage.
I thought I saw all of B&B's videos, but I obviously missed this one.
The only gauge issue remaining is that now that I've installed the SETRAB oil cooler and sandwich plate, I don't have a port for my oil temp sensor.
FYI - the gauges I'm running are (top 3) A/F ratiometer, boost, EGT, (bottom 3) oil temp, fuel pressure and voltage.
#8
Boost Czar
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the like whole point of the DIYBOB is so you can easily hook this ****** up... this is a 2min job at most.
jump 1A, 1B, 4A, and 4D to the 2A-2L connector.
connect Red with 1A, White with 1B, Power Ground with 4A, Signal Ground to 4D, and Brown to the cut yellow wire already wired up for wb02 in.
jump 1A, 1B, 4A, and 4D to the 2A-2L connector.
connect Red with 1A, White with 1B, Power Ground with 4A, Signal Ground to 4D, and Brown to the cut yellow wire already wired up for wb02 in.
Last edited by Braineack; 12-15-2016 at 06:43 PM.
#9
the like whole point of the DIYBOB is so you can easily hook this ****** up... this is a 2min job at most.jump 1A, 1B, 4A, and 4D to the 2A-2L connector.connect Red with 1A, White with 1B, Power Ground with 4A, Signal Ground to 4D, and Brown to the cut yellow wire already wired up for wb02 in.
#10
the like whole point of the DIYBOB is so you can easily hook this ****** up... this is a 2min job at most.
jump 1A, 1B, 4A, and 4D to the 2A-2L connector.
connect Red with 1A, White with 1B, Power Ground with 4A, Signal Ground to 4D, and Brown to the cut yellow wire already wired up for wb02 in.
jump 1A, 1B, 4A, and 4D to the 2A-2L connector.
connect Red with 1A, White with 1B, Power Ground with 4A, Signal Ground to 4D, and Brown to the cut yellow wire already wired up for wb02 in.
Is this what you mean by jumping the 1A, 1B, 4A and 4 D to the 2A-2L connector? I'm using trubokitty and I'm wondering if I'm not even going to use the Pink MS-23 wire into 2N if I'm installing wideband.
#11
Boost Czar
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why is your 16-pin spare connector already so populated?
why do you have tachout on it?
I meant bring the gauge in VIA the 16-pin pigtail:
then make the necessary connections in the bob so the wires go to the correct place:
why do you have tachout on it?
I meant bring the gauge in VIA the 16-pin pigtail:
then make the necessary connections in the bob so the wires go to the correct place:
#13
I need to eliminate a lot of the wires from the premade DIYAutotune harnesses, but I was using your guide to put the connector together, so that's the reasoning for tachout and the crowded spare 16 pin.
So to see if I'm interpretying this correctly, jump (solder a wire into) 4A->2F, 4D->2H, 1A->2D, 1B->2B (is it okay to have 2 wires going to the same pin? I guess I technically do with the grounds), you made a mark from 3C->2J, as well as over 1B.
I'm not trying to sound dumb I'm just trying to get an exact picture here, so yours is much appreciated.
MmmJesse just pointed out that I should switch everything I have on 2 to 4, as I seem to have read something incorrectly.
So to see if I'm interpretying this correctly, jump (solder a wire into) 4A->2F, 4D->2H, 1A->2D, 1B->2B (is it okay to have 2 wires going to the same pin? I guess I technically do with the grounds), you made a mark from 3C->2J, as well as over 1B.
I'm not trying to sound dumb I'm just trying to get an exact picture here, so yours is much appreciated.
MmmJesse just pointed out that I should switch everything I have on 2 to 4, as I seem to have read something incorrectly.
#16
Also, if you are still running the factory engine harness, you dont need to do tacho out. for the 1.6, the tacho is driven at the ignitor. Only time you would need tacho out is if you went with different ignition control like i have on my 93 now. I previously ran my 93 with the stock engine using the exact info above for a while with no issues.
#17
Also, if you are still running the factory engine harness, you dont need to do tacho out. for the 1.6, the tacho is driven at the ignitor. Only time you would need tacho out is if you went with different ignition control like i have on my 93 now. I previously ran my 93 with the stock engine using the exact info above for a while with no issues.
#20
Boost Czar
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the connector 2 should be completely unpopulated, but only for the wires you need for inputs and outputs.
if I were doing it it would look like this:
youre making this way too complicated...
youre just tapping into the oe wiring VIA the bob. the wbo2 must send into the MS via the pink wire. so youll wire the pink o2 wire form the MS to the pin your bring the signal in from the controller
the rest is just matching the pins of the OE wiring...