95m goes kinda fast for kinda cheap
#121
So I've been driving the **** out of the car lately, it's been pretty good, very reliable now. I just figured out my Ebay boost controller hasn't been working lately. They seem to be hit and miss from what I've read. I'm looking into getting a turbosmart or something. I have a tiny bit of preload on the wg so I hold 8.5 psi to redline with BC. I've been questioning my spool though lately. I get full boost by between 4000-4500 rpm, I'm leaning towards it being my downpipe and how tight it is by the shelf. Is this spool normal for a cast mani and 2.5" exhaust? I might try and either figure out a way to ditch the long vband off the back or get a tighter but smoother bend towards the rear. I still haven't been able to get my IACV to work yet, I think I need to add a resistor inline before the iacv. Plans are to fix my seat belts (roll bar ruins the guide position), fix glass, maybe try and figure out spool solution/ if its even a problem, and lots of autox time.
#122
So I just put in an order on jegs for two of these bad boys:
Scat 80-1790-61: Pro Sport 1790 Seat Black Velour | JEGS
They seem like they should fit just fine according to Flyin' Miata specs, well actually the shoulders are 1/2" wider than optimal but the base is good. My stock seats are pretty fubared, the drivers seat has metal starting to actually poke through. I had a friend get in an accident the other day (totaled his miata :( ) the airbag did go off, this raised my suspicion on how likely my 20 year old airbag is to go off, probably very slim. So I also ordered a 20$ ebay hub (I know but I remember brain said he used them without problem a few years back), the wheel is a 330mm personal grinta in black. I'm curious as to how I'll like the smaller wheel, I think it will do just fine. So now I'll have a roll bar, aftermarket seats, stock belts, and an aftermarket wheel. Nothing sounds too wrong with that so I should be safe. Maybe I'll switch to harnesses soon, but I think I'm getting ahead of myself.
Scat 80-1790-61: Pro Sport 1790 Seat Black Velour | JEGS
They seem like they should fit just fine according to Flyin' Miata specs, well actually the shoulders are 1/2" wider than optimal but the base is good. My stock seats are pretty fubared, the drivers seat has metal starting to actually poke through. I had a friend get in an accident the other day (totaled his miata :( ) the airbag did go off, this raised my suspicion on how likely my 20 year old airbag is to go off, probably very slim. So I also ordered a 20$ ebay hub (I know but I remember brain said he used them without problem a few years back), the wheel is a 330mm personal grinta in black. I'm curious as to how I'll like the smaller wheel, I think it will do just fine. So now I'll have a roll bar, aftermarket seats, stock belts, and an aftermarket wheel. Nothing sounds too wrong with that so I should be safe. Maybe I'll switch to harnesses soon, but I think I'm getting ahead of myself.
#123
Another update, shame I don't get more readers. It's a shame my first few pages are fail and cringe-worthy. Anyway I got tired of my shitty spool so I decided to step up my game. I tossed around the idea of switching set-ups to a t25 and redrilling my manifold. But then I remembered I had a 38mm wastegate lying around. So I began ordering parts.
For comparison, this is my old down pipe, very tight due to the shelf. I wanted to leave as much of the shelf in for rigidity purposes.
I ordered 3 mild steel flanges from ebay to space out my wastegate from the manifold (as well as the dump pipe), because it would not work as intended from china
Made my spacer, all welds are done with a harbor freight 180 watt mig welder I believe
spacer/extension installed
finish product, the dump pipe exits right between the block and motor mounts. It kind of flows towards the sub frame pinch welds, is this OK, I might try to bend it outwards more, or maybe I won't
Also multicolor car is no longer multicolor
For comparison, this is my old down pipe, very tight due to the shelf. I wanted to leave as much of the shelf in for rigidity purposes.
I ordered 3 mild steel flanges from ebay to space out my wastegate from the manifold (as well as the dump pipe), because it would not work as intended from china
Made my spacer, all welds are done with a harbor freight 180 watt mig welder I believe
spacer/extension installed
finish product, the dump pipe exits right between the block and motor mounts. It kind of flows towards the sub frame pinch welds, is this OK, I might try to bend it outwards more, or maybe I won't
Also multicolor car is no longer multicolor
#124
Moderator
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 21,071
Total Cats: 3,134
It is important to have the pipe get past all structure if you were going to do it that way. Exhaust is corrosive as well as damaging due to heat. Also not very good to breathe it for extended periods of time so don't boost, lol.
#126
So I ended up just adding another bend to my dump pipe, it now dumps by the trans. The spool on this is pretty insane compared to my old setup. I hit 7 psi at 3k where before it was 4.5, my down pipe was definitly the choke point.
My revised down pipe and new dump pipe, next thing for sure is a mixing manifold flip. I just need to figure out how to keep my heater core
My revised down pipe and new dump pipe, next thing for sure is a mixing manifold flip. I just need to figure out how to keep my heater core
#132
Lower radiator hose before rubbed up against my oil return line, I popped the oem one (20+ years old) so I switched to a 1 piece nb one and put a rubber sleeve over it. Now with the wastegate in, it hits the vacuum fitting and the oil return line. Maybe I'm being to paranoid, I just don't want to pop another hose and be left stranded somewhere