Autocross Class Unknown - An exercise in not caring
#22
That is the second version of the infamous jeep. The "fast" one was V1 and lives in the south. I'm not sure if Del has the 1.4 Turbo running at full tilt yet or this was one of the shake downs. He just had the motor (re)built over the winter.
Please keep us posted on the ecotec swap. I'm putting the LNF version in my XP car and it barely fits. Still have to fab up a custom oil pan. I put my motor lower and farther back than they did. Good news is the crank throws don't go past the griddle so it shouldn't be to bad.
Please keep us posted on the ecotec swap. I'm putting the LNF version in my XP car and it barely fits. Still have to fab up a custom oil pan. I put my motor lower and farther back than they did. Good news is the crank throws don't go past the griddle so it shouldn't be to bad.
#23
You are correct, this is V2 of the infamous Jeep. I thought about going LNF, but I don't have the resources to do the swap without the kit, and don't want to have to pony up for a custom billet flywheel.
I'm super excited for the ecotec swap, and am hoping I can get started on it by the end of the month.
I'm super excited for the ecotec swap, and am hoping I can get started on it by the end of the month.
#24
I'm using the Aisin AR5 transmission from the Solsitce. No need for custom flywheel headaches. The Miata's trans was on borrowed time with my old motor. Transmission mount is probably the easiest part of the swap to fab so far. The oil pan......... We'll see. I'm getting slightly better than a blind guy TIG'g so there is hope.
#26
I'm using the Aisin AR5 transmission from the Solsitce. No need for custom flywheel headaches. The Miata's trans was on borrowed time with my old motor. Transmission mount is probably the easiest part of the swap to fab so far. The oil pan......... We'll see. I'm getting slightly better than a blind guy TIG'g so there is hope.
It's not even really about the weight for me, it's the torque and availability. Yeah, I could build a BP for the same price as the swap that would make similar numbers, but if (when?) I blow that motor up, I have to go spend another sum of money on a new BP. With the ecotec, I can (hypothetically) run to the junkyard and buy a new motor for $500.
#27
New update, with some more back story/racecar therapy. Today is my Dad's birthday. He passed away almost a year ago now from a number of ailments. In the 90's, he was into dirt circle track racing (which is by far the most prominent form in Iowa). Here's some pics:
In honor of his memory, I finished stripping my interior today, and installed my new steering wheel.
That's all I have for today.
In honor of his memory, I finished stripping my interior today, and installed my new steering wheel.
That's all I have for today.
#33
Indeed, thanks for your help with those, they turned out pretty well. You know, I never really noticed that, but now that you mention it, he does.
Anyway, new year, new update! I finally got my old NB cleared out of the garage, and it's motor swap time! I picked this sucker up today. It's the LEA variant gen 2 motor (direct injection, more compression). With a canned tune, it should make 220ish HP and TQ to the wheels (on e85) with that oh so sweet ruler flat torque curve. The motor has 31k miles on it and compression tested 220 - 235 across the board. There should be some more updates coming in the next few days.
#35
So many new things! Where to start...
With a B6 exiting stage right of course!
After this old lump was out, I did some cleaning (no pics of that...sorry not sorry).
Then it was time to get the new motor all dressed up. Not pictured is the Flyin Miata stage 1 Happymeal, dipstick or alternator.
And lets not forget the picture that I obligatorily sent my brother after he told me my car was slow. He responded with "What's an echotech?"
I bought an Asus Nexus 7 for my gauge cluster. Here's the working concept receiving information from both my 10hz GPS and OBD2 reader via bluetooth in my Lexus:
Moving on to the actually semi-innovative stuff that you guys probably haven't seen a million times before (unless you're an engineer... in which case, scoff away). Here's a little ditty that I started designing yesterday. It's the housing/mounting apparatus for the above Nexus 7. As you can see, it attaches using a GoPro style mounting system. It's comprised of two separate pieces (a box and a lid, so to speak).Currently, I'm still working on some features for the "lid" portion, but the "box" is printing as I type this post.
The adapter I have modeled up is designed to attach to any tube that I like with some hose clamps. To make the model customizable, I've set up some variable parameters to adjust the final model to any diameter tube needed.
Tomorrow is motor stab day!
With a B6 exiting stage right of course!
After this old lump was out, I did some cleaning (no pics of that...sorry not sorry).
Then it was time to get the new motor all dressed up. Not pictured is the Flyin Miata stage 1 Happymeal, dipstick or alternator.
And lets not forget the picture that I obligatorily sent my brother after he told me my car was slow. He responded with "What's an echotech?"
I bought an Asus Nexus 7 for my gauge cluster. Here's the working concept receiving information from both my 10hz GPS and OBD2 reader via bluetooth in my Lexus:
Moving on to the actually semi-innovative stuff that you guys probably haven't seen a million times before (unless you're an engineer... in which case, scoff away). Here's a little ditty that I started designing yesterday. It's the housing/mounting apparatus for the above Nexus 7. As you can see, it attaches using a GoPro style mounting system. It's comprised of two separate pieces (a box and a lid, so to speak).Currently, I'm still working on some features for the "lid" portion, but the "box" is printing as I type this post.
The adapter I have modeled up is designed to attach to any tube that I like with some hose clamps. To make the model customizable, I've set up some variable parameters to adjust the final model to any diameter tube needed.
Tomorrow is motor stab day!
#36
Moar updates!
First, a shout out to my buddy Joe for all the help getting this thing in. Here's a pic of the motor before we put it in.
And the obligatory "is it in yet?" photo. Pictured, but not documented: the install of a new, non leaking brake master cylinder.
In other news, I did some iterations on my nexus 7 mount, and I think came out pretty well. It's now a 4 piece design (with optional "visor").
Here it is assembled next to the less than perfect version 1.0.
What's left:
Relocating fuel lines for exhaust clearance
Wiring
Mounting CTS pedal
Power steering stuff (Toyota MR-S pump)
Exhaust
First, a shout out to my buddy Joe for all the help getting this thing in. Here's a pic of the motor before we put it in.
And the obligatory "is it in yet?" photo. Pictured, but not documented: the install of a new, non leaking brake master cylinder.
In other news, I did some iterations on my nexus 7 mount, and I think came out pretty well. It's now a 4 piece design (with optional "visor").
Here it is assembled next to the less than perfect version 1.0.
What's left:
Relocating fuel lines for exhaust clearance
Wiring
Mounting CTS pedal
Power steering stuff (Toyota MR-S pump)
Exhaust
#39
Miata trans + ecotecmiata swap kit.
Here's my tips so far:
Clearance both of the "shelves" at the back of the engine bay.
Undo the power steering return line if you're putting engine and trans in at the same time.
Be prepared for clearance issues when dropping engine and trans in at the same time.
Load levelers are tools of the gods.
If at all possible, hook up your starter leads up before you drop the motor in.
Put your alternator belt on before you put the oil pan on.
Buy an angled clutch line for more exhaust clearance like the one from Garage Star.
If you don't care about running stock gauges, there's a fairly inexpensive way (~$200) to run a tablet that reads off the OBD2 signal and 10hz gps.
Make sure the junkyard gives you EVERYTHING YOU NEED the first time so you don't drive an hour one way multiple times for things they either forgot to give you or you didn't realize you needed (make sure you get all the fasteners/bolts too).
The alternator bolts directly to the block.
If it's worth doing, it's worth overdoing.
Here's my tips so far:
Clearance both of the "shelves" at the back of the engine bay.
Undo the power steering return line if you're putting engine and trans in at the same time.
Be prepared for clearance issues when dropping engine and trans in at the same time.
Load levelers are tools of the gods.
If at all possible, hook up your starter leads up before you drop the motor in.
Put your alternator belt on before you put the oil pan on.
Buy an angled clutch line for more exhaust clearance like the one from Garage Star.
If you don't care about running stock gauges, there's a fairly inexpensive way (~$200) to run a tablet that reads off the OBD2 signal and 10hz gps.
Make sure the junkyard gives you EVERYTHING YOU NEED the first time so you don't drive an hour one way multiple times for things they either forgot to give you or you didn't realize you needed (make sure you get all the fasteners/bolts too).
The alternator bolts directly to the block.
If it's worth doing, it's worth overdoing.
#40
Miata trans + ecotecmiata swap kit.
Here's my tips so far:
Clearance both of the "shelves" at the back of the engine bay.
Undo the power steering return line if you're putting engine and trans in at the same time.
Be prepared for clearance issues when dropping engine and trans in at the same time.
Load levelers are tools of the gods.
If at all possible, hook up your starter leads up before you drop the motor in.
Put your alternator belt on before you put the oil pan on.
Buy an angled clutch line for more exhaust clearance like the one from Garage Star.
If you don't care about running stock gauges, there's a fairly inexpensive way (~$200) to run a tablet that reads off the OBD2 signal and 10hz gps.
Make sure the junkyard gives you EVERYTHING YOU NEED the first time so you don't drive an hour one way multiple times for things they either forgot to give you or you didn't realize you needed (make sure you get all the fasteners/bolts too).
The alternator bolts directly to the block.
If it's worth doing, it's worth overdoing.
Here's my tips so far:
Clearance both of the "shelves" at the back of the engine bay.
Undo the power steering return line if you're putting engine and trans in at the same time.
Be prepared for clearance issues when dropping engine and trans in at the same time.
Load levelers are tools of the gods.
If at all possible, hook up your starter leads up before you drop the motor in.
Put your alternator belt on before you put the oil pan on.
Buy an angled clutch line for more exhaust clearance like the one from Garage Star.
If you don't care about running stock gauges, there's a fairly inexpensive way (~$200) to run a tablet that reads off the OBD2 signal and 10hz gps.
Make sure the junkyard gives you EVERYTHING YOU NEED the first time so you don't drive an hour one way multiple times for things they either forgot to give you or you didn't realize you needed (make sure you get all the fasteners/bolts too).
The alternator bolts directly to the block.
If it's worth doing, it's worth overdoing.