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I'm going to guess around 2250 lb. all in with the HD bar, battery, exhaust, wheels/coilovers, etc. Probably close to your 2330 lb. guess in stock form.
My base model NB2 with softtop, HD single diag. bar, RB/Goodwin exhaust, Xida's, 9" 6ULs, AC & PS weighed 2340 lb. with ~5-6 gallons of gas (I figure 2300 dry):
Our detailer bringing the paint back to life. There was enough paint under the oxidized layer so its looking good. Front bumper was repainted at some point. Rear bumper was too oxidized, paint coming off in globs. So we will have to repaint the rear bumper.
Roadster Cup Street class rules do not allow ECU replacement or piggy backs. We asked if the crystal mod, adjustable timing wheel and Spec Miata style AFPR were legal and were given the green light. So we have some crude but effective control over fuel and spark.
I'd really like some control over VVT maps but there is no legal way to do that so the OEM table will have to suffice.
Last time I checked, OEM NB2 ECU maxes out timing at around 24°. That's under ideal IAT, CLT, MAP, no knock, etc. In practice when on track on a hot day, that's more like 21-23°. The NB heads on pump gas usually want somewhere between 28-32° on top. So we'll have to crank in a bunch of base timing to reach MBT for pump gas. We are not going to run race gas in it. With a 10% higher frequency crystal we should be at 7700rpm but everything else will be a mess. We have never messed with a crystal mod in a VVT engine so it's uncharted territory. Theory is it will advance all the VVT tables by the same 10%. If so, that's a good thing in general. Not ideal but we can work with that. The AFPR is going to make this possible even though we can only really optimize full load in the upper ranges. Wherever part load and/or lower rpm AFR's ends up is what it is. Engine is recently rebuilt PT points engine with a square top. We'll relocate the MAF over to the coldside. Educated guess is around 145whp with RB header, catless RB exhaust.
We are piecing together our own AFPR set up in the trunk. Tricky with the OEM returnless fuel system that we will retain. Spec Miata vendors get $500 for the PnP kits. Crikey.
No majors news. We're focused on getting a recent race car build ready for this weekend. Snoopy get a set of 15x8 6UL Beryllium on 205/50 Maxxis VR-1 so we can ditch the bald 420tw Capital Mouth Breather 2000's that were on it.
15x9's won't fit until we get the Xidas on it. Also a windshield sticker worth 5whp (dyno verified). Really digging the Beryllium on white.
Can you swap over to a return style fuel system or is that against the rules as well?
Allowed, but far outside the scope of this particular build. We want to someday be able to return it to "collector status" save for the rollbar mounting holes.
Fear not. Just a miscommunication between me and our detailer The nose needs to be corrected and the rear bumper needs to be painted too. It's a work in progress.
Nice to see another 2003 club sport white hardtop! Picked mine up a couple weeks ago, original owner. 56k miles. Mine also needs a good detail as the paint looks as if its never been waxed.
Just bought a JDM ECU from a member here. We were a bit hesitant to do the crystal mod on the stock ECU as it's basically irreplaceable. The JDM ECU doesn't use the immobilizer and has a higher rev limit. We are also assuming/hoping the
VVT tables are a bit better optimized for power seeing as the emissions standards for Japan were much less strict than CARB in 2003.
Now John tells me the pinout and lugs are different. Argh. Might require a patch harness as there is no way I'm hacking up the OEM harness
What expectations do you have for this piece? I read about it on m.net and the consensus seems to be that it won't do anything, while 5Xracing has a dyno plot with a healthy increase. As someone who has a fun Friday-Sunday miata and a wife that would hand him divorce papers if a megasquirt showed up on the door step, is it realistic to expect a 3-5HP bump that 5Xracing is claiming?
Nice find. Strange seeing an NB2 that stripped down. Any chance you'll roll it across the scales before getting to work on it? Accurate weights on a stock Club Sport are hard to come by, unsurprisingly.
We plan on doing this.
We'll need to get the added softtop and radio out of the car, and put it back on the stock wheels, but it should happen. For science!
I believe I detailed exactly what our expectations are in the post about the timing wheel. Take a moment to read again.
I suspect though, you want a definitive hp number so you can make a purchasing decision for an item that FM sells. In which case, you should contact FM and see if they have done any A/B testing.
Originally Posted by flier129
Cool find and cool idea on the build!
Any interest at all to dip it into STR?
Not close to STR legal by the time we're done with it.