In Soviet Russia car build YOU!
#2024
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Beaverton, USA
Posts: 18,642
Total Cats: 1,866
OK I win at internetting.
NB heater core is aluminum. Weld fittings on.
@bbundy did it here: https://www.miataturbo.net/general-m...e-54171/page2/
Now I'm regretting throwing away that NB heater core last week.
NB heater core is aluminum. Weld fittings on.
@bbundy did it here: https://www.miataturbo.net/general-m...e-54171/page2/
Now I'm regretting throwing away that NB heater core last week.
#2029
mkturbo.com
iTrader: (24)
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 15,194
Total Cats: 1,687
Ohh where at in Fredrick is it? I will be up Pasadena Saturday morning picking up more NB mid pipes for my turbo setup. I might be able to swing by and say hey and give you stickers and **** or something.
#2030
I have no clue, I just believe I have access to a NB2 heater core in a friends parts car.
Ohh where at in Fredrick is it? I will be up Pasadena Saturday morning picking up more NB mid pipes for my turbo setup. I might be able to swing by and say hey and give you stickers and **** or something.
Ohh where at in Fredrick is it? I will be up Pasadena Saturday morning picking up more NB mid pipes for my turbo setup. I might be able to swing by and say hey and give you stickers and **** or something.
#2031
I have no clue, I just believe I have access to a NB2 heater core in a friends parts car.
Ohh where at in Fredrick is it? I will be up Pasadena Saturday morning picking up more NB mid pipes for my turbo setup. I might be able to swing by and say hey and give you stickers and **** or something.
Ohh where at in Fredrick is it? I will be up Pasadena Saturday morning picking up more NB mid pipes for my turbo setup. I might be able to swing by and say hey and give you stickers and **** or something.
#2035
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Seven Valleys, PA
Posts: 638
Total Cats: 11
Join us for the fun and drag Soviet out. I haven't seen him in forever.
If you are by your self, I should still be easy to spot. Miata is back to green now and I will email you my cell #.
#2036
This is what i'm referring to. It's brass and you would need to drill out the threaded portion to slip over the heater pipe. I can't find anything that is sweat by flare.
Larsen Supply 3/8 Female x 1/2M Flare Adapter 17-5833
3/8" pipe has a nominal outside dia of .675" so that means if you got rid of all the threads you would have .050" of diameter slip fit which I think is a bit much. A 1/2" fitting for brazing has ID between .627" and .631" and 1/2" tubing OD is .622" to .626" so max to min you only need .001" clearance for brazing. So I'd say a 5/8 drill bit should be good to go with a little wobble drill if needed. Or try and get a 16mm drill bit? Or don't compress the 17mm heater nipple and get a 43/64" drill bit?
In any case I think this fits your need of being cheap, tidy, and failproof as when properly done, a brazed connection will never fail and when properly tightened, flared connections never come undone or leak. And the fitting has the added bonus of having a hex head that you can use to properly tighten the AN fitting with.
There are two things I'm uncertain of: is there any issue with brass to aluminum touching and the flare angle of these particular fittings. The flare tool you bought is what is commonly used to make flares for gas fittings which is what this fitting would be used for. Some research says it is JIC/AN which is 37*. The ASE flare is 45*. But I just can't say for sure as the fitting doesn't have a spec.
Larsen Supply 3/8 Female x 1/2M Flare Adapter 17-5833
3/8" pipe has a nominal outside dia of .675" so that means if you got rid of all the threads you would have .050" of diameter slip fit which I think is a bit much. A 1/2" fitting for brazing has ID between .627" and .631" and 1/2" tubing OD is .622" to .626" so max to min you only need .001" clearance for brazing. So I'd say a 5/8 drill bit should be good to go with a little wobble drill if needed. Or try and get a 16mm drill bit? Or don't compress the 17mm heater nipple and get a 43/64" drill bit?
In any case I think this fits your need of being cheap, tidy, and failproof as when properly done, a brazed connection will never fail and when properly tightened, flared connections never come undone or leak. And the fitting has the added bonus of having a hex head that you can use to properly tighten the AN fitting with.
There are two things I'm uncertain of: is there any issue with brass to aluminum touching and the flare angle of these particular fittings. The flare tool you bought is what is commonly used to make flares for gas fittings which is what this fitting would be used for. Some research says it is JIC/AN which is 37*. The ASE flare is 45*. But I just can't say for sure as the fitting doesn't have a spec.
#2037
re: AN heater core fittings
I welded steel -10 bungs to some scrap steel tubing that fit the inset on them. Slid those steel tubes into the heater core tubes and brazed them. Both tubes pressure tested OK to 20psi and have not leaked with maybe 10 hours on them.
Used some ford/chevy v8 valve cover breather grommets for the firewall heater tubes. They make for a very snug and sturdy fit compared to the stock pieces.
Used some ford/chevy v8 valve cover breather grommets for the firewall heater tubes. They make for a very snug and sturdy fit compared to the stock pieces.
#2038
Elite Member
Thread Starter
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: VA
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Can you dumb down the brazing part for me? If I want to attach stainless fittings that slide onto brass tube, how can I do it? I read about brazing, silver brazing, soldering, and they are all different temperature. I've only sweated copper pipe in the past.
#2039
I use Harris Safety-Silv 56% and their Stay-Silv flux. I take the same approach I do to sweating copper pipes. I head the heavy stuff (bungs) and the thin stuff heats by default. Then do test "dabs" with your rod/wire. When the temp is good it will flow to the joint. I'm by no means an expert, just serious time on youtube watching brazing. I've managed to do these heater core lines, a high pressure AC line with the same metals and aluminum AC lines. No leaks on any of them. Key advice: practice first. I brazed a brass tube to a big steel nut first fwiw.
I used the steel tubes because the brass heater core tubes were too large to fit the inset/recess in the AN fittings. Could have just as easily used a lathe to open that up- if I had one. You just need to be discrete with heat around the heater core tubes given their lack of wall thickness.
I used the steel tubes because the brass heater core tubes were too large to fit the inset/recess in the AN fittings. Could have just as easily used a lathe to open that up- if I had one. You just need to be discrete with heat around the heater core tubes given their lack of wall thickness.