99 Sport eBay turbo build
#142
There is a window of percentages that will make an appreciable difference on the idle, you need to use those percentages in the closed loop idle settings. Everything outside this window is non-linear and not to be trusted. 5% is way too low, never heard of any miata using those values.
After that, you need to set the idle screw so that it's ~700 rpm at the lowest percentage duty you found earlier.
Hope that helps.
After that, you need to set the idle screw so that it's ~700 rpm at the lowest percentage duty you found earlier.
Hope that helps.
#143
don't touch the idle screw. ever
everything the oem ecu can do, the ms can do. so the idle screw should never be touched and remain how it left the factory
do the idle valve test. test ALL ranges. set lowest/highest based on maximum duty to achieve max rpm and minimum duty to achieve minimum rpm. now you have a window for CL idle control to work with. next you set the parameters for it
everything the oem ecu can do, the ms can do. so the idle screw should never be touched and remain how it left the factory
do the idle valve test. test ALL ranges. set lowest/highest based on maximum duty to achieve max rpm and minimum duty to achieve minimum rpm. now you have a window for CL idle control to work with. next you set the parameters for it
#144
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don't touch the idle screw. ever
everything the oem ecu can do, the ms can do. so the idle screw should never be touched and remain how it left the factory
do the idle valve test. test ALL ranges. set lowest/highest based on maximum duty to achieve max rpm and minimum duty to achieve minimum rpm. now you have a window for CL idle control to work with. next you set the parameters for it
everything the oem ecu can do, the ms can do. so the idle screw should never be touched and remain how it left the factory
do the idle valve test. test ALL ranges. set lowest/highest based on maximum duty to achieve max rpm and minimum duty to achieve minimum rpm. now you have a window for CL idle control to work with. next you set the parameters for it
Now for my official first turbo project FAIL.
I ghetto rigged my air filter, as i didnt have the 3" diameter adapter at the time of building the turbo, so i mounted the filter to a smaller silicone hose...
Well the filter popped off and ripped, and a rubber piece got ingested into the turbo, and it looks like it bent some blades.
how hard is the compressor wheel to replace and where should i get one? or should i send the turbo to a pro to replace the wheel?
turbo seems to work fine, but the sound changed to more of a whistle than a whoosh
#146
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I will probably send it out to pureturbos and have them fit an upgraded billet wheel, for more flow and faster spool, at the cost of $350
lesson learned. dont rush the install, use correct parts for the job.
#148
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ok. spoke to pureturbo, i am sending out my turbo to them and having them machine the compressor opening +1mm and install a gt2860 billet wheel.
They said same spool as stock wheel, and more flow.
Machine work, install and balance, $350. not bad.
They said same spool as stock wheel, and more flow.
Machine work, install and balance, $350. not bad.
#150
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Got the turbo back from Pure Turbos with the billet gt2860 compressor wheel.
Removing the manifold/downpipe seems so straight forward, except that its almost impossible to reach half the bolts, so what seems like a 2 hour job, turns into a weekend full of wrenching and cursing.
Miata is back on the road. so not looking forward to having to remove the turbo again.
Before:
After:
Removing the manifold/downpipe seems so straight forward, except that its almost impossible to reach half the bolts, so what seems like a 2 hour job, turns into a weekend full of wrenching and cursing.
Miata is back on the road. so not looking forward to having to remove the turbo again.
Before:
After:
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