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So I am going to order this exhaust plus a test pipe unless someone can point me in a cheaper direction in the PDX area. These guys seem to have a decent rep.
So I am going to order this exhaust plus a test pipe unless someone can point me in a cheaper direction in the PDX area. These guys seem to have a decent rep.
I recommended Enthuza because I bought a stainless version of the one I recommended you, and I was really pleased with the results. The extra $40 for the 3" is a great deal IMO.
thats a good deal.
but the "big" maggie is still best
last 6258 made 330 without breaking a sweat. doubt its tapped out past 250
don't limit yourself with injectors. it's just wasting money if you built the engine. ID1000 if you want more than 250whp
you either do it right and forget a "budget", or you stay under 250 and your "budget" will be way easier to meet.
Maybe with a lot of fuel pressure. Stock pressure is questionable. I was at 75% DC at 220hp on stock fuel pressure. And you really shouldn't run injectors above 85%.
So either spend a bunch of money cranking fuel pressure, or spend a bit more on ID1000s.
I made 219whp on Rx7 460s and a stock FPR. If you were at 75%DC on 640cc injectors on gas, something was wrong. I just maxed the FF640s in Acamas on E85 at ~50psi DFP (NB system at ~10psi boost) at roughly 210-215whp. FF640s will do 275whp on a stock NA FPR on gas without breaking a sweat.
FF640s + Fuelab FPR is almost identical to the cost of ID1000s, and the FF640s+FPR option will idle a big fuel pump better anyway.
Originally Posted by farpolemiddle
Things I am considering buying:
Ignition (LS Coils?)
Better oil pump
Pistons
Damper
Oil cooler
fuel pump
Ignition upgrade and fuel pump upgrade are required. Damper and oil cooler are both really good ideas. Oil pump is up to you - not necessary at 275whp, but it's only ~$150 extra over the cost of a new OEM pump from Mazdacomp. Pistons are not needed at 275whp.
I honestly think a V8 or K swap might have made more sense. Especially since I could probably have sold my 94 1.8 engine off pretty easily.
V8 is 2x your budget. K-swap is perfect if you want exactly 225-250 and are willing to pay a 1.5x cost premium to get the simplicity of an NA setup. I have driven both (a couple LS cars and one K24A2 car) and an EFR6258 is still the way to go for your power goals.
Or buy a used S2000/ Vette
Meh, driven both. The S2000's stock engine has to be wrung so hard to get the most out of it that it's not enjoyable on the street. Vettes are great, but much more money for a decent C6 or C6Z and not as tossable on the street.
Anyway, my $0.02. You're on the right track. Definitely don't skip the 3" exhaust.
Hmmm, guess I was a little rich. 11.4 AFR. But nothing crazy.
Maybe my car is just weird. Idk. but nothing is broken. When I went back last month with a 60psi base pressure I only had 60% DC
640cc injectors, 60%DC, 60psi DFP, 0.55 BSFC = 315bhp. Punching the same numbers into the same calculator at your old fuel pressure (43.5) and DC% (75%) gives 330bhp. Way off. Maybe the FPR isn't raising fuel pressure as far as it should? Maybe clogged fuel filter? Something definitely isn't right, though.
If I started going to the track I would have to give up other hobbies I am not ready to give up yet. I am afraid if I go to the track I will want to build a track car.
I plan on running a very similar setup in my car. Great feedback in this thread. Excited to see what you decide on for engine internals, coils, and clutch. I would highly recommend a roll bar for the added safety and rigidity that it gives you. Sub'd
Also interested in this thread as I'm about to pull the trigger on a turbo setup similar to this, though I plan to make it a track bitch. 220whp until I get an engine built. Waiting for Sav to email me back
Question to the informed - what can I expect to be different about my 02 engine with flat top intake vs OP's NA8?