Removing an engine and transmission: methods available
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Hey guys, I just got an awesome junkyard find. I've honestly never worked on a car, so what other than miatas to start. My plan is to swap this 1.8 into my 90, but first I need to remove major parts from the donor car. I understand that I can remove the transmission by itself, but the engine is what I'm wondering - is it better to rent an engine hoist and move the entire engine, or would it be easier to take it apart from the top down until I can just take the block off of the transmission? I have a garage for 5 days, is this enough time to do either? I'm also removing the rear end. So all in all, engine, trans, rear, shocks, sway bars. Do I need any specific tools or would a good harbor freight toolkit do the trick?
#2
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Hey guys, I just got an awesome junkyard find. I've honestly never worked on a car, so what other than miatas to start. My plan is to swap this 1.8 into my 90, but first I need to remove major parts from the donor car. I understand that I can remove the transmission by itself, but the engine is what I'm wondering - is it better to rent an engine hoist and move the entire engine, or would it be easier to take it apart from the top down until I can just take the block off of the transmission? I have a garage for 5 days, is this enough time to do either? I'm also removing the rear end. So all in all, engine, trans, rear, shocks, sway bars. Do I need any specific tools or would a good harbor freight toolkit do the trick?
I'm not going to do the rest of the work for you because I know there are several concise write ups on Miata.net.. Or you can grab the "Enthusiasts Handbook" for your car, or shop manual. You will probably need them anyway for an engine pull.
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I actually saw this the other day. My issue is not having an engine hoist. I see that I can disconnect everything and lower the engine/trans onto a roller and lift the car and roll it out. I also might just tear it down from top to bottom. Just trying to get input on what I may encounter.
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Without a doubt, it's easier in most cases to yank the engine and transmission, as an assembled unit, from the top. (be sure to drain the oil from the transmission first, else it'll all run out the tailshaft onto the floor.)
You mention dropping them out the bottom as a unit- do you have access to a two-post lift? Because that's the only way I can see this happening. You'll have to drop the front subframe and suspension as well if you go that route, and that's going to make it pretty difficult to do the job with just a floor jack and jack stands.
You mention dropping them out the bottom as a unit- do you have access to a two-post lift? Because that's the only way I can see this happening. You'll have to drop the front subframe and suspension as well if you go that route, and that's going to make it pretty difficult to do the job with just a floor jack and jack stands.
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Without a doubt, it's easier in most cases to yank the engine and transmission, as an assembled unit, from the top. (be sure to drain the oil from the transmission first, else it'll all run out the tailshaft onto the floor.)
You mention dropping them out the bottom as a unit- do you have access to a two-post lift? Because that's the only way I can see this happening. You'll have to drop the front subframe and suspension as well if you go that route, and that's going to make it pretty difficult to do the job with just a floor jack and jack stands.
You mention dropping them out the bottom as a unit- do you have access to a two-post lift? Because that's the only way I can see this happening. You'll have to drop the front subframe and suspension as well if you go that route, and that's going to make it pretty difficult to do the job with just a floor jack and jack stands.
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You mention dropping them out the bottom as a unit- do you have access to a two-post lift? Because that's the only way I can see this happening. You'll have to drop the front subframe and suspension as well if you go that route, and that's going to make it pretty difficult to do the job with just a floor jack and jack stands.
--Ian
(*) actual number of buddies not specified, it depends on number of hours spent at the gym
#11
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Pull both together through the top of the engine bay. Remove the front sway bar, subframe brace, hood and radiator. Get a load leveler from harbor freight in addition to the hoist. Replace the engine mounts, clutch/throw out & pilot bearings, and any trapped seals while you have them out. Also consider replacing the clutch curly hard line with a flex line while you're in there. It's also the time to do a coolant reroute.
When you drop it back in, attach the passenger side engine mount to the engine, and the driver side mount to the subframe. The passenger side mounting hole is slotted on the pax side, and this technique will make drooping it back in way easier.
When you drop it back in, attach the passenger side engine mount to the engine, and the driver side mount to the subframe. The passenger side mounting hole is slotted on the pax side, and this technique will make drooping it back in way easier.
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A two-post lift or a dozen (*) buddies and a big flat space. With the engine, transmission, subframe, etc removed, the front of the car is pretty light, you can pick it up and roll it backwards.
--Ian
(*) actual number of buddies not specified, it depends on number of hours spent at the gym
--Ian
(*) actual number of buddies not specified, it depends on number of hours spent at the gym
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