nothing wrong with 12.1 cold start/warmup. I usually start with that and then have it taper up within about 30 sec.

Did you figure out hot restarts? I remember it was a little finicky when you stopped by

 

LOL at that gear ****

 

Oh yeah, figured out that hot start long ago, that was like the immediate shut down and restart. Thanks for asking though, I think that was right after I changed dead times. It is probably a stretch but I think you might actually be impressed with my tune and tuning ability. I might even be a worthy disciple of yours one day.

What's wrong with my shifter?
I ran that one on my last miata, my old rx7 and my old 73 corolla as well

 

Ok no crazy rants today, they only had 1 of my favorite beers, lucky for you guys.

This is my favorite local craft beer.
And I beat my Miata regularly before I drink any beer, about to turn 240000, 13000 on the MKTURBO setup.

 

Pulled in to get some crap CA 91 and noticed this.
Wow the thing made it to 240k.

 

So I just don't understand what is going on with my tranny. I mean I know it's dying soon, but the noise is gone again.

Somehow it seems related to downshifting into 1st. I know, what the hell am I downshifting into 1st for. But there is a steep driveway from a hairpin turn off a steep road at my wife's work. If I do in 2nd I feel like I am peeling into the parking lot too fast, making people uncomfortable.

I have made a point to do it in 2nd the last few days and the noise goes away. Then the first time I downshift into 1st, the noise is back.

 

Looks like NBoost is probably right.
My clutch slipped in 4th yesterday and at first glance it is looking like contamination.
I have never actually been in there but when I first test drove the car I stalled and the PO said "Oh yeah I put an ACT lightweight clutch and flywheel in." He had the car less than a year.
Judging from the timing belt and seals I suspect that he used cheap seals and bearings in there.

I had about an hour and a half to work on it this morning. On stands, downpipe and mid-pipe removed, so easy, thanks Lars.
Oil drained and braces removed, I will post some pics when I get a chance to get back under there.

Any ideas on good seals and bearings, can I use FM ones or do I need to get them from Mazda?

What about a replacement clutch disc? On our old rx7's we ran center force 2's and just threw a new kragen disk in whenever we were in there.

I am also considering a new FM clutch.

 

Go with a new FM1 clutch and just be done with it. Also replace the rear main seal while you are in there. Use an OEM seal from Mazda only. Also get the seal install tool from FM.

 

Basically what I am thinking.
I also plan to swap out the loud *** 5 speed to see how the other one functions.
My current plan is actually that my 5 speeds are a consumable. I know, sucks, but really these cars are very easy to work on.

 

Not the yellow cover I was expecting to see.



So no question now, I will order an FM clutch in the morning. The pilot bearing is almost completely seized, good call NB.
I am guessing the bearings with the FM kit are high quality so no need to get them from the dealer right. Just the seals, I plan to replace the input shaft seal and gasket, the output shaft seal and the rear main seal all from Mazda. I will also order a seal install tool, am I forgetting anything besides locktite blue?

 

That's about it. Make sure you have FM send you the stg2 TOB, not the stg1. The stg 1 is junk, the 2 is upgraded and a bit stronger

 

RMS tool is great idea. I am about to do my RMS for the second time (extremely premature). I installed first replacement with the confidence that its no different than any other RMS.. oh wait DOH!, #becausemiata it somehow isn't, and now leaks 25k later. Tool is in my near future as well.

I am using OEM pilot and throwout, wouldn't do anything but those or FM 2nd stage.

LOL PO must have missed his "ACT" clutch labeled as an Exedy.. Damn man, that blows.

 

I have an RMS tool you can borrow if you're in the area, but I'd need it back same week.

OEM throwouts have been known to fail with the stg2, but maybe yours is extra strong.

 

In fairness, I wonder if someone told the PO they put an ACT in there but pocketed some of his cash, since how would he check.

Thanks for the offer Vlad! I added one to my order already, I don't mind having the right tools. Level 2 bearings in the order as well.

I ran into a small snag as I have never ordered from FM before they didn't like that my shipping address is different from my billing address. They sent a PayPal invoice so I should have it done tonight.

 

Not to shill 949, but have you considered 949's new clutch? Its a seriously quality piece. I just received mine today, they have them in stock and are shipping. I actually ditched my FM Stage 1 in favor of the 949 clutch last minute (had the clutch and flywheel on the engine, was about to bolt the transmission on and drop it in)

 

Fm1 is only $10 more and holds 60ft/lbs more torque. I honestly don't see the benefit of the 949 one.

 

I went with the FM clutch mainly because of all the great reviews and very few defective units.
I also agree, for the price, clamping force can't be beat.

Here is the flywheel, hopefully the guys at local shop can resurface it for me.
The pilot bearing was a 6202z with double metal shields. Do not install a pilot bearing that looks like this. I think the radial lines on the flywheel are the grease from the pilot bearing.

 

I can see all those launches in that flywheel

as long as it hasn't been turned before, they should be able to turn it no prob.

 

lol Found your other half of the clutch disk, its on the flywheel.

 

Yeah I beat that sucker pretty good
It was actually kinda pretty.

Found a nice local automotive machine shop, it had not been turned before.
After.