My 2001 Italian Stallion money pit build
#161
^interesting...
So I've talked to Gary at Track Dog Racing for a really long time about my setup. He seems convinced that my rods and pistons are in danger even at 220whp... And with the C30-94, I should limit my rpm significantly. Like 6000rpm should be my redline kind of limiting.
This doesn't really jive with what a lot of people on this site have been saying, that 250wtq is the max "safe" working limit for the rods/pistons.
Could his much lower limits be due to using inferior fuel cards, or poor engine management?
So I've talked to Gary at Track Dog Racing for a really long time about my setup. He seems convinced that my rods and pistons are in danger even at 220whp... And with the C30-94, I should limit my rpm significantly. Like 6000rpm should be my redline kind of limiting.
This doesn't really jive with what a lot of people on this site have been saying, that 250wtq is the max "safe" working limit for the rods/pistons.
Could his much lower limits be due to using inferior fuel cards, or poor engine management?
#162
^interesting...
So I've talked to Gary at Track Dog Racing for a really long time about my setup. He seems convinced that my rods and pistons are in danger even at 220whp... And with the C30-94, I should limit my rpm significantly. Like 6000rpm should be my redline kind of limiting.
This doesn't really jive with what a lot of people on this site have been saying, that 250wtq is the max "safe" working limit for the rods/pistons.
Could his much lower limits be due to using inferior fuel cards, or poor engine management?
So I've talked to Gary at Track Dog Racing for a really long time about my setup. He seems convinced that my rods and pistons are in danger even at 220whp... And with the C30-94, I should limit my rpm significantly. Like 6000rpm should be my redline kind of limiting.
This doesn't really jive with what a lot of people on this site have been saying, that 250wtq is the max "safe" working limit for the rods/pistons.
Could his much lower limits be due to using inferior fuel cards, or poor engine management?
Ask Gary about the magnificent job they did tuning Stoli's car.
I have not seen such incompetence even from the "other" TDR (tuning done rong).
#163
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Beaverton, USA
Posts: 18,642
Total Cats: 1,866
^interesting...
So I've talked to Gary at Track Dog Racing for a really long time about my setup. He seems convinced that my rods and pistons are in danger even at 220whp... And with the C30-94, I should limit my rpm significantly. Like 6000rpm should be my redline kind of limiting.
So I've talked to Gary at Track Dog Racing for a really long time about my setup. He seems convinced that my rods and pistons are in danger even at 220whp... And with the C30-94, I should limit my rpm significantly. Like 6000rpm should be my redline kind of limiting.
But you have a super charger. Which won't make torque down low. Which is what bends rods.
#164
You - will I pop my engine?
MT - likely not.
You - but some dude somewhere said I will
MT - likely not.
You - but I heard in a PBS documentary that I could
MT - likely not.
You - will smaller pulley be beneficial?
MT - likely not.
You - I'll go ahead and get one for no reason anyway, is that a good plan?
MT - likely not.
You - okay I just bought a buttload of parts and won't need 75% of them. was that smart?
MT - likely not.
ILU <3
ps: updated thread title.
MT - likely not.
You - but some dude somewhere said I will
MT - likely not.
You - but I heard in a PBS documentary that I could
MT - likely not.
You - will smaller pulley be beneficial?
MT - likely not.
You - I'll go ahead and get one for no reason anyway, is that a good plan?
MT - likely not.
You - okay I just bought a buttload of parts and won't need 75% of them. was that smart?
MT - likely not.
ILU <3
ps: updated thread title.
Last edited by 18psi; 04-28-2016 at 05:17 PM.
#165
You - will I pop my engine?
MT - likely not.
You - but some dude somewhere said I will
MT - likely not.
You - but I heard in a PBS documentary that I could
MT - likely not.
You - will smaller pulley be beneficial?
MT - likely not.
You - I'll go ahead and get one for no reason anyway, is that a good plan?
MT - likely not.
You - okay I just bought a buttload of parts and won't need 75% of them. was that smart?
MT - likely not.
ILU <3
ps: updated thread title.
MT - likely not.
You - but some dude somewhere said I will
MT - likely not.
You - but I heard in a PBS documentary that I could
MT - likely not.
You - will smaller pulley be beneficial?
MT - likely not.
You - I'll go ahead and get one for no reason anyway, is that a good plan?
MT - likely not.
You - okay I just bought a buttload of parts and won't need 75% of them. was that smart?
MT - likely not.
ILU <3
ps: updated thread title.
just delete all the posts, and keep that one.
thanks for the title change lol
#166
Daddy got a package today...
Hard Dog Hard Core M2 Roll Bah (hopefully) fits the rear soft top glass and under a hard top! Its not as glamorous, but I left the wrapping on for paint protection. Pictured is the high density foam "padding" just draped over the bar. This feels like hard plastic, and has barely any give...
I also got a leather cover for the top bar, but it is too small. My guess is they sent the leather cover that works for the roll bar that is 1 1/4 tubing, and the hard core bars are 1 3/4.
Hard Dog Hard Core M2 Roll Bah (hopefully) fits the rear soft top glass and under a hard top! Its not as glamorous, but I left the wrapping on for paint protection. Pictured is the high density foam "padding" just draped over the bar. This feels like hard plastic, and has barely any give...
I also got a leather cover for the top bar, but it is too small. My guess is they sent the leather cover that works for the roll bar that is 1 1/4 tubing, and the hard core bars are 1 3/4.
#169
(with Deezum 18psi and Aidens help...)
Just a small update, I finally got around to cutting a spring to size to fit in the catch cans I'm making... Taken from Deezums Catch Can thread... I'm using the Husky compressor air/water separator from Home Depot.
I bought an assorted spring package also at Home Depot, and looked through it until I found a suitable spring. This is a picture of the order after you disassemble the catch can (reservoir not shown)
This is the uncut spring, and the cut length spring in the assembly order (clear reservoir also not shown)
This is how I reassembled everything, after a few different methods, I settled on squeezing the allen wrench between my naked Italian thighs, and balancing the stuff on it...
Then you lower the reservoir down (after inserting the black valve thing into it) onto the rest of the assembly and tighten down. This method was much easier than fiddling around and getting nowhere...
hope this helps someone...
Just a small update, I finally got around to cutting a spring to size to fit in the catch cans I'm making... Taken from Deezums Catch Can thread... I'm using the Husky compressor air/water separator from Home Depot.
I bought an assorted spring package also at Home Depot, and looked through it until I found a suitable spring. This is a picture of the order after you disassemble the catch can (reservoir not shown)
This is the uncut spring, and the cut length spring in the assembly order (clear reservoir also not shown)
This is how I reassembled everything, after a few different methods, I settled on squeezing the allen wrench between my naked Italian thighs, and balancing the stuff on it...
Then you lower the reservoir down (after inserting the black valve thing into it) onto the rest of the assembly and tighten down. This method was much easier than fiddling around and getting nowhere...
hope this helps someone...
#173
When I start logging again I'll have a better idea of actual numbers.
I know its just anecdotal, but, for example, the intake box would get quite hot, and the valve cover would burn instantly to the touch. Now I can hold my hand on the intake box without discomfort, and I can accidentally touch the valve cover, even for a two seconds, and not get burned.
Oh, also, the oil cap would get super freaking hot. I had to wear thick gloves just to add oil. Now I can remove the oil cap bare handed. Its honestly remarkable how crappy of a job the oem unit does.
Also, it took 50 minutes of driving for frost to melt off my hood yesterday morning, if that helps.
I would think one of the only downsides to the exhaust blanket over the oem heat shielding is the windshield wiper fluid would not be as helpful in removing ice layers because it wouldn't get hot like it did before
I know its just anecdotal, but, for example, the intake box would get quite hot, and the valve cover would burn instantly to the touch. Now I can hold my hand on the intake box without discomfort, and I can accidentally touch the valve cover, even for a two seconds, and not get burned.
Oh, also, the oil cap would get super freaking hot. I had to wear thick gloves just to add oil. Now I can remove the oil cap bare handed. Its honestly remarkable how crappy of a job the oem unit does.
Also, it took 50 minutes of driving for frost to melt off my hood yesterday morning, if that helps.
I would think one of the only downsides to the exhaust blanket over the oem heat shielding is the windshield wiper fluid would not be as helpful in removing ice layers because it wouldn't get hot like it did before
#175
Hehe, I can't help but shove my rod places...
Sending my transmission to RO Motersports, Installing OS Giken, changing ring and pinion to 3.63 (different speed sensor too) sending my XIDAs to Inertia Labs for a warranty(hopefully) rebuild, changing springrates to 800/500, adding the billet coaxial top mounts!!!! finally.
Here's a speed/rpm photo for comparison in a month...
Sending my transmission to RO Motersports, Installing OS Giken, changing ring and pinion to 3.63 (different speed sensor too) sending my XIDAs to Inertia Labs for a warranty(hopefully) rebuild, changing springrates to 800/500, adding the billet coaxial top mounts!!!! finally.
Here's a speed/rpm photo for comparison in a month...
#176
well, i have now seen what my fat cells look like...
goin pretty damn fast on my roadbike, on a route I've ridden every day for the past few months, wasn't paying attention until it was too late... someone placed a sign in a crosswalk, so i turned a bit to avoid it, but went to a section of road that has a big chunk missing... i didn't bunny hop high enough, and my rear wheel slammed into the edge of the road... sent me flying...
:'(
Got some good road rash, scraped through to the fat cells through my clothing.
I don't even want to look at my bike. pretty messed up.
goin pretty damn fast on my roadbike, on a route I've ridden every day for the past few months, wasn't paying attention until it was too late... someone placed a sign in a crosswalk, so i turned a bit to avoid it, but went to a section of road that has a big chunk missing... i didn't bunny hop high enough, and my rear wheel slammed into the edge of the road... sent me flying...
:'(
Got some good road rash, scraped through to the fat cells through my clothing.
I don't even want to look at my bike. pretty messed up.
#179
I wasn't sure what the white centers were, in the deeper scrapes, and webMD was saying it is the layer of fat cells? Its definitely not bone, because I was poking it a bit.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1462321663
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1462321663
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1462321663
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1462321663
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1462321663
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1462321663
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1462321663
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1462321663