Probably for this:

Big Bend Open Road Race

Similar to the Silver-State Classic.

Yeah, not KISS. More like PPPGE (****-Poor Pseudo German Engineering). But as long as you can push it off the road and still join the party that night, who cares?

 

Fuel pump for each injector.

Oops wrong thread.

 

"Definitely not the KISS approach to cooling, seems like there is now more than twice the components and connections to fail."

May I suggest you stay with four cylinder motors. The additional complexity of a 5 or 6 might drive you batty. Lord help you if you buy a V12.

Consider:
If one carries the "kiss" approach to the logical conclusion, it all remains stock and you don't win the race.

Frontal area of the heat exchanger is the biggest single factor in cooling.

Heat exchange area gets larger with fatter rad cores, but with increasing thickness, LESS air passes through the core.

Any given radiator core's volume is only about 25% water.

If one can competently assemble 15 coolant connections, he can also assemble 15 more with the same degree of competence.

The coolest coolant introduced into the hottest points on the motor has some logic to it, in my view.

And also:
Yes, it was for the west Texas race. This is not a track race of on/off throttle operation.
Rather it will require one hour at full boost and at the redline. To do such, twice the stock power is needed, but only 25% more cooling air is available if the frontal area of the heat exchanger remains stock.

corky

 

Mine seems to suck the power steering fluid that is on the bottom of the hood out that gap.(don't ask). That said, I only have stock ducting and no block of panel up there.

 

I'm using the 949Racing re-route kit on an engine that is going to be installed in an Exocet.
I am wondering whether I am able to block the heater inlet/outlet at the mixing manifold and at the new rear housing, completely removing the heater loop. This will mean I can lose the hardline water pipe that runs along under the exhaust manifold all together, and will need to come up with a solution to block the two ports mentioned above.

Anyone done this...pics would be great. TIA!

 

Since you don't need the mixing manifold, you can replace it with a Kia or Mazda B6 front water outlet. Hose would need to be different but it cleans things up. One option anyway.

 

I did this on a build where i weld an aluminum plug on the cross over tube hole in the mixing manifold, this way you can still use the lower oem radiator hose.

 

Ok cool, thanks guys. I'm of the understanding then that i dont need to have a hose from the reroute rear housing(its heater port) to the oem mixing manifold.
Sweet, that'll tidy things up nicely!!! Thanks

 

FYI, You do need to let the engine get up to temp where the thermostat opens before wailing on it, without having that return line there is likley some hot and cold spots in the engine until you have normal water circulation.

 

Noted...I would like to think i am clever enough to remember this good advice but when the blood starts pumping...
Would drilling a small hole in the thermostat be safe enough? Just to help get a little circulation until the thermostat opens?

 

Yes, a 1/4" hole will suffice, I pulled the little bleed toggle thing out and drilled that hole out keeping it at the top when installed. Any larger and I couldn't keep my up to temp in 55 F ambients, even racing

 

The tstat on our reroute already has a 1/4" hole drilled in it. No need to add another.

 

I run 3 holes 3/16" dia., the same as this hflow one has so if the temp doesn't warm up enough on cold mornings I don't worry much. Sometimes I put a little duct tape on the construction cloth grill which also helps front down force. I forgot to mention I tried running that stat but the whole bottom is what opens [the brass can you see] and the taper on the M-tuned stat housing won't let it open very much.

EMP Stewart High Performance Thermostats 301 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

 

The House Cat cooling is coming right along. While the coolant reroute helps, we're closing off more of the front air intakes because too much air is making it into the engine bay. The two side inlets are getting rerouted to the front brakes, and two hood vents will be added to help evacuate the air. Instead of being right behind the radiator, they're higher on the hood where there's some good low pressure air that will help suck out the heat.




The new House Cat coolant reroute includes a swirl pot at the firewall.




This plumbing isn't finished, but shows the simple location of the coolant pipes. The 1.25" aluminum tube will be bolted down with a couple of P clips.



There's some good low pressure at the back of the hood.






The vent is right over the turbo, so radiated heat has a direct escape route when the car is off.

 

Nice, very nice

 

Looks awesome!
Can I ask where you got that cool vent from?

 

Made it ourselves. The first few test pieces were aluminum, but we made this one with stainless steel, laser cut. The first iteration showed too much of the outside vents where they bend, so this latest one had tightened up the trim ring. I think it turned out nice.

 

Wow, very impressive! Guess I'll be going with the $10 ebay version then lol

 

I've probably got some aluminum test pieces laying around. Pay for the shipping and I'll send you a couple.

 

Thats very kind of you, thanks. I live on the other side of the globe to you though so wouldnt be worth your effort. Thanks for the thought though!