will my 2x5.5x4.5 setrab oil cooler be large enough?
#1
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I thinking perhaps I should just get larger core so I don't need to mess with it later. what size will promise oil temps stay in check. several previous track cars had coolers in the range of 10x10 and I never saw temps above 220 so I'm thinking about buying one just for piece of mind that ive done all i can really do. I'm planning on setting the oil cooler up next week so if need to get on it. anyone run something in this size range? what temps do you see. not going to buy a kit, I have tons of part, lines and what not.
#3
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
is what a diff cooler? a fluid cooler is a fluid cooler. they make all different sizes and you choose the size based on packaging and cooling need. I guess the smaller units are often used as power steering, diff, trans coolers but never with a 10 AN fitting such as mine , which makes it a smallish engine oil cooler.
#4
Cpt. Slow
![](/mt2011/images_td/ranks/supporter1.gif)
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,360
Total Cats: 1,184
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Kinda depends on where you are *hint-hint*. Put your location in your profile.
Places like southern California, Texas, etc, you probably want something bigger.
If you're farther north like myself, it'll probably be okay with proper ducting. For the one, MAYBE two track days I do a year that are above 90*, I just watch my temps and do a cool down lap every time it gets too hot. It's a small sacrifice for the $200ish savings over buying a new setup and fittings.
Places like southern California, Texas, etc, you probably want something bigger.
If you're farther north like myself, it'll probably be okay with proper ducting. For the one, MAYBE two track days I do a year that are above 90*, I just watch my temps and do a cool down lap every time it gets too hot. It's a small sacrifice for the $200ish savings over buying a new setup and fittings.
#6
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
perhaps I should've just bought the fm kit, I spent about 100 on new fittings alone. so I i decide I need a new core it going to be an expensive diy. on the street my oil temps are right around 180. might delete the water oil exchanger to keep everything separate so I really know what is going on.
#7
Elite Member
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 4,847
Total Cats: 27
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
A huge consideration is how well ducted it is. If you just stick it in the nose somewhere and do not forcibly channel cool air flow through it then it will not work well.
This is a cheap off-brand oil cooler installed on a 320 WHP engine racing in Texas. Works fine. The ducting is the key.
This is a cheap off-brand oil cooler installed on a 320 WHP engine racing in Texas. Works fine. The ducting is the key.
#9
Elite Member
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 4,847
Total Cats: 27
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I had something similar to this before and saw a huge improvement when I added ducting. I added the ducting before I removed the lower part of the stock nose and added the air dam you see in the picture.
#10
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I know it is impossible to tell for sure but I was thinking I could drop the core all the way down level with the IC and radiator . the use ducts to direct airflow from below the car up to the core and seal up the sides. so essentially it would be a boxed channel for air but flow would come from below not from the front.
the other option is to open one of the sides and mount the core in the wheel well. basically like the stock bumper fog holes on either side. I would rather not cut the bumper right now and I sent alot of time on my lines, routing is tricky, and would rather not redue them.
I dont get how you have so much room. any pictures of line routing and or front end with the bumper off?
the other option is to open one of the sides and mount the core in the wheel well. basically like the stock bumper fog holes on either side. I would rather not cut the bumper right now and I sent alot of time on my lines, routing is tricky, and would rather not redue them.
I dont get how you have so much room. any pictures of line routing and or front end with the bumper off?