When was the last time you changed your rear hubs?
#41
I see the same thing but B01A-33-061 appears to be the hub without studs for the same price. Is B01A-33-060 a complete assembly with the bearings already installed? Early in the thread Andrew said the inner seals were a PITA and mentioned a ballpark price with new ARP studs at around $100 (assuming MMD pricing).
--Ian
#44
More torque means more load, more grip means more load, and bouncing it off berms at the track means shock loads. Any of those is going to mean a greater chance of failure, but how much is too much? No idea.
Anecdotally, I ran 40-50 track days on the original rear hubs on my 99, with R compounds (V700 Victoracers and RA-1s). I swapped them recently as a part of a (currently incomplete) ABS retrofit project so they're sitting on the workbench -- I plan to look at them closely.
The solution is to do what real race teams do. You pick a defined lifetime period for the part and then track when it was installed and how many miles/hours/track days/whatever it has on it. When it hits that lifetime, you replace it and throw the old one in the trash, no matter what it looks like.
--Ian
#47
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I was thinking the sharp metal bits would dig into the ground once off the pavement. I've seen vehicles roll going a lot slower than Sav was going. I didn't think he would ever stop spinning.
#54
That is the big question. I've got about 20K miles on my car since 10/2010 in 107 days on track (where a day is usually four 20-25 minute sessions), and it was a track car before I bought it; should I be concerned or not? On the plus side, I'm only running NT01s, no Hoosiers, and my power level is low.
Is this something that we can inspect with the hub on the car?
robert
Is this something that we can inspect with the hub on the car?
robert
#55
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Every ~150 track hours is a safe estimate. You could probably safely push that to 200 hours, but the failure mode is so catastrophic that it's not worth the risk. ~150 hours is about one year of racing for me. (25-30 events a year, 5-6 hours a weekend)
#56
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That is the big question. I've got about 20K miles on my car since 10/2010 in 107 days on track (where a day is usually four 20-25 minute sessions), and it was a track car before I bought it; should I be concerned or not? On the plus side, I'm only running NT01s, no Hoosiers, and my power level is low.
Is this something that we can inspect with the hub on the car?
robert
Is this something that we can inspect with the hub on the car?
robert
#57
I bought rebuilt spindles, with fresh hubs/bearings/ARP studs, and they have 4 days on them now. Good to know I *shouldn't* have to worry about it for awhile.
#59
A respected race car builder / shop owner here in the bay area told me the original hubs that came on the Miata seem to live significantly longer than the OEM replacements. He recommended I replace mine every two years and also said regular racers should do it every year.
Andrew, I did not realize the extent of your track *****-mongering, sounds to me like you should replace every six months :-)
Andrew, I did not realize the extent of your track *****-mongering, sounds to me like you should replace every six months :-)
#60
A respected race car builder / shop owner here in the bay area told me the original hubs that came on the Miata seem to live significantly longer than the OEM replacements. He recommended I replace mine every two years and also said regular racers should do it every year.
Andrew, I did not realize the extent of your track *****-mongering, sounds to me like you should replace every six months :-)
Andrew, I did not realize the extent of your track *****-mongering, sounds to me like you should replace every six months :-)