Whats better? Cast manifold inconel or welded steel vband
#22
Tour de Franzia
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It makes me lol that we're back on this topic again. I ran into an "engineer" with a turbo 240 that has this problem and he went on and on about how this problem is caused by the exhaust flying around on cornering and how he fixed the problem with titanium bolts from "baller bolts". Later that day his turbo came loose and he wanted Trackspeed's contact info, lol. I could have stretched those bolts in 3 laps, for the record.
It's funny how so many people have this problem, yet a short list of people have the answer.
It's funny how so many people have this problem, yet a short list of people have the answer.
#24
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To the OP, IMHO the best is a tubular manifold with standard flange/TSE inconel studs just due to the costs involved with the tial parts:
vband housing, flanges & clamps
ewg
more expensive manifold & downpipe
safety drilling CHRA bolts
vband housing, flanges & clamps
ewg
more expensive manifold & downpipe
safety drilling CHRA bolts
#26
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FWIW I have had my TSE studs in my mani for about 4 months now? My studs haven't come loose or broken. They don't even look burned. I think that is winning.
Savington you may want to put something in the instructions about "be careful with the studs until they work harden". I noticed that the incolnel was kinda maleable and I almost messed some threads up when I did the initial install. After they were on the car for a while they were very hard.
Savington you may want to put something in the instructions about "be careful with the studs until they work harden". I noticed that the incolnel was kinda maleable and I almost messed some threads up when I did the initial install. After they were on the car for a while they were very hard.
#28
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Savington you may want to put something in the instructions about "be careful with the studs until they work harden". I noticed that the incolnel was kinda maleable and I almost messed some threads up when I did the initial install. After they were on the car for a while they were very hard.
It's probably not working hardening, FYI - it's likely heat treating.
#31
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Correct.
Anyways, if I had a setup that used 10mm bolts, I wouldn't be dicking around asking questions I'd just buy Sav's kit. As it is, some of the less popular/lower budget kits run 8mm bolts, and call us flacid for our puny studs but we'd like see if we can get in on a little piece of the good stuff and possibly run the 10mm kit or find an 8mm solution.
Anyways, if I had a setup that used 10mm bolts, I wouldn't be dicking around asking questions I'd just buy Sav's kit. As it is, some of the less popular/lower budget kits run 8mm bolts, and call us flacid for our puny studs but we'd like see if we can get in on a little piece of the good stuff and possibly run the 10mm kit or find an 8mm solution.
#37
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After Buttonwillow, my current setup is holding. Right now I have ATP turbo studs and locking nuts and nordlock washers from FM. As this car does run on a tight budget, I'll pursue the 10mm conversion avenue if/when my current stuff doesn't work any more. However, I am only running 7psi at the track - for reliability - so I am creating much less heat and stress than many of you, and that may mean my setup will be just fine.
Andrew looked at my turbo over the weekend and was actually surprised by the amount of room that it had - apparently the main issue will be the 15mm nut - they used to use 14mm nuts but not anymore, so if my studs die I'll take the turbo off and measure from the centerpoint of the hole to the nearest obstruction and I'll know if his kit will be useable on a TDO4. If anyone has a TD04 off their car, please give it a measure and let me know.
-Ryan
#38
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We can do a run of M8 studs- I need 10 guys to commit to it at the cost on the website (~160), and I cannot offer any sort of guarantee/warranty since they will be totally untested. They will be the same as the M10 studs - same alloy, same super high quality, same rolled threads. The testing part is why we've never explored it - it was hard enough to get the M10 studs properly vetted.
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