Am very keen to upgrade to 10's but not so sure about flares or widebody kits...I DO like the wide body kit but may not be accepted in my class and supply might be difficult...

Can you guys with NA's and 10's post photos of your car and/or your 5c worth.....

 

11's are the new 10's! JK.....

I think you can get the 10's to work on the back with some rolling and hammering. I cut the inside support thingy (wish I had pics). Rolled the crap out of it and hammered it further with a baby sledge. It's not as barbaric as it sounds. It turned out quite nice. My overlay fenders in the rear are kind cosmetic and serve to mount the rocker for aero more than anything. I think if you did that and used a blister Autokonexion front it would look cool. You can't do much with the fronts. They just flop around. Impossible to work with.

 

A full-on widebody isn't necessary at all, but I'm not sure if you can do enough stretching and hammering alone for them to fit. Perhaps someone has tried and can chime in. It's much easier if you are willing/allowed to do some cutting.

Front:
Blister fender would work perfectly. Alternatively, if you disconnect the rear of the fender from the car you can push the fender outwards much more than when it is anchored down by the pinch weld. You could do this a few ways depending on if/how you want to incorporate aero into things here. My version is basically a horizontal cut across the rear of the fender and 15x10 with 245 fits:



Rear:
Tiny flare does the trick.

 

I don't think it's doable without flares/cutting if you want full suspension travel.

 

I have heard, anecdotally, that depending upon the tire and offset, it may be possible to just remove the plastic fender liner and be extremely aggressive with the roller. But I don't believe I've ever seen this done in person.

 

245 maxxis are actually pretty easy. Big hammer-assisted pull in the rear. Hammer flat and roll/pull fronts. Here's a before pic on stock metal.





275 Hoosiers are a cut and flare affair. Even after the hammer and pull work I had to raise the car ~1" to get the rears to stop rubbing on launches or slaloms. This is a very light car on 700/450lb so rubbing was minimal. I could never get it to handle right that high, plus the 275s and manual steering. We ended up running 13x9s because they heated up faster and the car felt so much better down low.

 

Awesome, this is the sort of stuff I had in mind when I first thought about it and asked.

I think at this stage 10's might be a "Mental" project fro the time being. Look forward to more solutions and pictures etc...


Cheers.....

 

Remember tire choice plays a bigger role than wheel width. Stuffing 245's with 10's may not be so bad. Trying the same with 275's is a whole other story.

 

Thank you, good advice.

I think the reality for me is the tyre choices are too limited to make a big difference.

From what I gather NT01's on a 9" versus Maxxis 245 on a 10" is not such a huge step up anyway.

Not to mention our rules require a DOT tyre AND the NT01 has reasonable wet weather capability while the Maxxis is limited.....

Seems like IF Hoosiers were legal it would be worth the cost and hassle (flares/Wide body) with repainting and the additional wheel cost but reality is that the cost effective nature of the class is part of the appeal and pushing ever higher in performance via wheels/tyres (though difficult to not desire) is not the best idea.

Alternatives or reality check to any of the above welcome......particularly (9 v 10) tyres...

 

More contact patch = more grip. Doesn't require any opinions.

 

cost to benefit ratio does though......

 

I run mostly in classes that limit treadwear so Hoosiers are out for me except for fun days or running a class above in Unlimited. 245 RC1 on 10 is at least one second faster on an average 2min course than 225 NT01 on 9, so I built the car around RC1s on 10s. If I had the choice of RC1 vs. NT01 in same size, I'd probably choose NT01, but that choice doesn't exist for the 245 so the decision is made for me.

If you're doing HPDEs, you may not find the additional time/cost of fitting 10s worth it. But if you're competing, then running 9's is handicapping yourself from the start.

 

If "The Pass" is correct and it's 1 second more per lap that's a pretty good performance jump for a cheap tire in my opinion. Once you bite the bullet for 10's and body work ($?) the tire costs are about the same. Pretty good ROI from what I can tell. It also opens the door to run something really sticky once in a while like the S80/R7/A7. Sure you won't make a full season of that but it's AMAZING what the car can do on sticky rubber once in a while.

 

What do you feel is the HP crossover for your 245/10 RC1 vs 225/9 NT01 statement? Thanks!

 

Autokonnexion flares front and rear.

Fronts were beaten under flares but we still had some contact issues with 245 Hoosiers until we cut them under the flares. I run 225 A050s on my second set of 10s and these had far less problems with clearance.

Like others, we beat the rears out under the flares. Inelegant but it works. I have some minor rubbing with 245s at full bump in the left rear but not enough to be concerned over.

 

Thread revival-

Looking for pics/ proof/ confirmation one way or the other of whether the 245/40/15 Maxxis fits with a x10 6ul on an NA. Yes im aware that mass amounts of fender work will be required, however Id like to not give myself bacon fenders in the process.

So, lets see it!

 

I have just put 245 Hoosiers mounted to 15x10 6ul and Autokonexion flares on my 89 NA. I doubt you could pull the guards enough to fit without running flares. You might be able to but you'd need to cut and weld the guard to pull it enough. Maybe offsetting the back end and running a vent would work.

On the front there are other clearance problems other than the width if the guard where the outside edge of the tyre will clip the front bumper or rear edge of the guard so these areas will need work too. I ended up cutting out a lot of the front bumper connection flange and a bit off the bumper itself. I hammered the rear of the guard in and rounded it off to clear the rear edge of the tyre.

On the rear you have more issues do to the double skin. I ended up cutting both skins of the guard and reweld them higher.

In terms of rubbing on the chassis, I applied a far bit of persuasion with a big mallet to a few points. I havent driven the car yet though.

I'll take some pics today.

 

https://www.miataturbo.net/wheels-ti...8/#post1343079

 

Thank you to both of you for the info, Panx.... I had made it damn near to that portion in that thread before I posted here.

 

Was this with the AK V2 (Smaller Version) Flare? Have seen the V1 (Bigger Version) will fit a 275 Hoosier on a 15 x 11. However, I was hoping the V2 would fit my setup 245 Hoosier on a 15 x 10. Can anyone confirm fitment with the smaller AK flares front and rear?