Trackday Pics Give Me Suspension Questions (no56k)
#1
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Trackday Pics Give Me Suspension Questions (no56k)
I had a great HPDE trackday at Sebring on the 3.7 mile course. The car felt balanced and relatively neutral-to-slightly-understeery at the limit in the big sweepers just as Shaikh's calculator predicted with a FRC at ~56.5%.
Then I see the pictures and OMG. My car looks nothing close to balanced in the pics. The front is showing lots more sway than I felt when driving and the rear is very squatted compared to the front in many of the pics. I must be really close to the bumpstops in the rear. And the front end points too much towards the sky sometimes. If I had grippier or wider tires I'd be on the bumpstops constantly or rubbing wheelwells badly.
Some pics:
The low-budget setup is: NB Sport Bilsteins, NB tophats, stock NB Sport front springs (168lb), RB NA6 rear springs (106lb), cut down stock rear bumpstops, FM front sway 1" full stiff, FM rear sway 5/8" full soft, 949 front endlinks, 195/14 RS2s. I have also added about 1" extra preload to the springs by mounting the shock rod higher in the tophat using non-factory mounting hardware. ~56.5 FRC
The obvious answer is "Get stronger springs, dummy," but adjustable coilovers perches and springs aren't in the budget right now (unless someone has some cheap used stuff laying around) and they would also likely require a shock revalve ($$$), unless the springs had relatively mild rates, wouldn't they? I believe Hustler said the HD Bilsteins rode like crap with heavier springs that he tried once.
I always see the car without me in it and the rear height looks good and even with the front. Add 370lbs total of me and instructor plus a full tank of fuel and we're saggin'. Is this a big problem or just shut up and enjoy my trackday like a good noob? As a positive it looks like I have great front droop which is really good on rougher tracks like Sebring. Soft and compliant with good droop is what the baller drivers at Sebring tend to use from what they tell me.
Extra suspension parts I'm not currently using that may be employed: NB sport rear springs (130lbs) that make it ride high like a dually pickup in back, used Koni Yellow adjustables, stock rear swaybar, RB NA6 front springs (157lbs), NA8 stock front and rear springs (154lbs and 94lbs), etc.
Should I add the 130lb springs to the rear, remove FM rear sway and add stock the rear sway for ~FRC 62.5 perhaps? Somebody have some light duty springs and old adjusters that they have grown out of or something they recommend?
Comments? Wisdom? Laughter? Words of guidance fueled by experience?
Feel free to move this thread if I'm not "track enough" for this section. Thanks in advance.
Then I see the pictures and OMG. My car looks nothing close to balanced in the pics. The front is showing lots more sway than I felt when driving and the rear is very squatted compared to the front in many of the pics. I must be really close to the bumpstops in the rear. And the front end points too much towards the sky sometimes. If I had grippier or wider tires I'd be on the bumpstops constantly or rubbing wheelwells badly.
Some pics:
The low-budget setup is: NB Sport Bilsteins, NB tophats, stock NB Sport front springs (168lb), RB NA6 rear springs (106lb), cut down stock rear bumpstops, FM front sway 1" full stiff, FM rear sway 5/8" full soft, 949 front endlinks, 195/14 RS2s. I have also added about 1" extra preload to the springs by mounting the shock rod higher in the tophat using non-factory mounting hardware. ~56.5 FRC
The obvious answer is "Get stronger springs, dummy," but adjustable coilovers perches and springs aren't in the budget right now (unless someone has some cheap used stuff laying around) and they would also likely require a shock revalve ($$$), unless the springs had relatively mild rates, wouldn't they? I believe Hustler said the HD Bilsteins rode like crap with heavier springs that he tried once.
I always see the car without me in it and the rear height looks good and even with the front. Add 370lbs total of me and instructor plus a full tank of fuel and we're saggin'. Is this a big problem or just shut up and enjoy my trackday like a good noob? As a positive it looks like I have great front droop which is really good on rougher tracks like Sebring. Soft and compliant with good droop is what the baller drivers at Sebring tend to use from what they tell me.
Extra suspension parts I'm not currently using that may be employed: NB sport rear springs (130lbs) that make it ride high like a dually pickup in back, used Koni Yellow adjustables, stock rear swaybar, RB NA6 front springs (157lbs), NA8 stock front and rear springs (154lbs and 94lbs), etc.
Should I add the 130lb springs to the rear, remove FM rear sway and add stock the rear sway for ~FRC 62.5 perhaps? Somebody have some light duty springs and old adjusters that they have grown out of or something they recommend?
Comments? Wisdom? Laughter? Words of guidance fueled by experience?
Feel free to move this thread if I'm not "track enough" for this section. Thanks in advance.
#2
If you can afford to do track days, you can afford some serviceable used springs with respectable rates. Ebay and sccaforums are good sources. I totaled about $60 shipped for all 4 springs on my car, used Eibachs and QA1s. These are 2.5" springs for coilovers. I got the Koni sleeves which were somewhere between $150-200 IIRC for the set of 4.
Not sure what rates the NB Bilsteins can handle, but if you can use those Koni yellows they're good up to about 500 lb/in. I have 450/300 F/R on mine and no problems. The ride quality is not exactly plush, but not too horrible on the street. On the track you're going to need at least FM-ish spring rates (330/220 or whatever they are) to keep from wallowing around like a pig.
I ran both FM bars and it was a little oversteery so I ended up going back to a stock rear bar. Handling balance is great, just the ride quality isn't awesome on rough surfaces with the Konis. But you're going to be making sacrifices until you come up with A$T money.
Not sure what rates the NB Bilsteins can handle, but if you can use those Koni yellows they're good up to about 500 lb/in. I have 450/300 F/R on mine and no problems. The ride quality is not exactly plush, but not too horrible on the street. On the track you're going to need at least FM-ish spring rates (330/220 or whatever they are) to keep from wallowing around like a pig.
I ran both FM bars and it was a little oversteery so I ended up going back to a stock rear bar. Handling balance is great, just the ride quality isn't awesome on rough surfaces with the Konis. But you're going to be making sacrifices until you come up with A$T money.
#3
What he said. Most guys running track days are running 3-5 times stiffer springs than stock. Spec Miatas run 700lb fronts! Considering you were running stock springs that doesn't look so bad. Look for a deal and at least double those spring rates, more in the front. Big front bar and stock rear is pretty popular. Lose the FM rear bar.
#5
I think you are being over critical. Car looks pretty good considering the parts you have. Of coarse I am not one to critique considering my track experience.
The question I would ask myself is what would get you through the learning curve of track driving faster without developing bad habits. What do the instructors have to say about that?
The question I would ask myself is what would get you through the learning curve of track driving faster without developing bad habits. What do the instructors have to say about that?
#6
I had a great HPDE trackday at Sebring on the 3.7 mile course. The car felt balanced and relatively neutral-to-slightly-understeery at the limit in the big sweepers just as Shaikh's calculator predicted with a FRC at ~56.5%.
...Then I see the pictures and OMG.
...The obvious answer is "Get stronger springs, dummy,
...Is this a big problem or just shut up and enjoy my trackday like a good noob?
...Comments? Wisdom? Laughter? Words of guidance fueled by experience?
...Then I see the pictures and OMG.
...The obvious answer is "Get stronger springs, dummy,
...Is this a big problem or just shut up and enjoy my trackday like a good noob?
...Comments? Wisdom? Laughter? Words of guidance fueled by experience?
Sounds like the car is a daily driver that might spend a couple of hours on track a few times a year, so that's how I'd treat it.
Set it up to how you like it on the street and track it that way.
None of the pictures or things you mentioned are problems. Stock-like springs and shocks are perfectly fine, they just let the car roll more than stiffer setups would allow, but roll isn't necessarily a bad thing. What you experienced is pretty much what you should expect on a mostly-stock Miata. As a new track driver, you should be focused on having fun, driving the car, learning the line, and playing well with others. As long as the car is in good mechanical condition and the suspension is reasonably set up, you are good to go.
Spend your cash on seat-time until you are faster than the car.
#8
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If you can afford to do track days, you can afford some serviceable used springs with respectable rates. Ebay and sccaforums are good sources. I totaled about $60 shipped for all 4 springs on my car, used Eibachs and QA1s. These are 2.5" springs for coilovers. I got the Koni sleeves which were somewhere between $150-200 IIRC for the set of 4.
Not sure what rates the NB Bilsteins can handle, but if you can use those Koni yellows they're good up to about 500 lb/in. I have 450/300 F/R on mine and no problems. The ride quality is not exactly plush, but not too horrible on the street. On the track you're going to need at least FM-ish spring rates (330/220 or whatever they are) to keep from wallowing around like a pig.
I'd love to pick out some awesome spring and coilover combo and have Shaikh rebuild my Bilsteins to match but $$$.
None of the pictures or things you mentioned are problems. Stock-like springs and shocks are perfectly fine, they just let the car roll more than stiffer setups would allow, but roll isn't necessarily a bad thing. What you experienced is pretty much what you should expect on a mostly-stock Miata.
As a new track driver, you should be focused on having fun, driving the car, learning the line, and playing well with others. As long as the car is in good mechanical condition and the suspension is reasonably set up, you are good to go.
Spend your cash on seat-time until you are faster than the car.
Spend your cash on seat-time until you are faster than the car.
I was told by a few friends that I needed to hurry up and get the turbo on there now and I said "hell no!" Going faster would only complicate things and make me outdrive my tires, suspension, and brakes. Dangerous stuff.
Like I've never heard that before, lol.
On a different note, my SA2010 full face helmet that had been backordered for 5 weeks showed up last night, woohoo!
#10
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Touche'
Why awesomeness, of course! It is a Miata after all. I guess I'm surprised at how much flatter it felt than it looks now seeing the pics. I'll take that as an indication of disparity between my perception and my reality. This phenomenon repeats itself in other aspects of my life as well.
As it makes the inevitable spiral down to mostly track car lack of money becomes a greater hindrance to me than worry about comfort.
Why awesomeness, of course! It is a Miata after all. I guess I'm surprised at how much flatter it felt than it looks now seeing the pics. I'll take that as an indication of disparity between my perception and my reality. This phenomenon repeats itself in other aspects of my life as well.
As it makes the inevitable spiral down to mostly track car lack of money becomes a greater hindrance to me than worry about comfort.
#13
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I've said it many times before, but my 700/400 spring rates on ASTs are more comfortable than my daily on stock springs. If I had one car to track and daily, I might consider 500/300 spring rates, but I'd most likely go with 700/400 for a daily driven vehicle. Its firm and the only time I feel discomfort in the track car is on rhythmic bumps. Driving down the highway is smoother and speedbumps are sucked-up much easier than on the stock springs.
XIDAs are the way to go even more so for a daily driver, its the best of both worlds.
XIDAs are the way to go even more so for a daily driver, its the best of both worlds.
#16
sorry Steve, I had trouble reading your post with that avatar of yours.... good lord.
In my NA, I bought it with RB springs and Koni yellows, and the car had some serious roll, felt like crap. Just changing to the FM springs only and adding the FM bumpstops, it feels like a completely different car. I'm on a budget as well and didnt feel like dropping a lot on some coilovers, but I love my Koni/FM springs setup. Stock swaybar btw... i might add a larger front bar sometime soon.
In my NA, I bought it with RB springs and Koni yellows, and the car had some serious roll, felt like crap. Just changing to the FM springs only and adding the FM bumpstops, it feels like a completely different car. I'm on a budget as well and didnt feel like dropping a lot on some coilovers, but I love my Koni/FM springs setup. Stock swaybar btw... i might add a larger front bar sometime soon.
#17
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you think thats bad?
agx, ebay coilovers, stock sways. circa 2007
also, those pics don't change the fact that the car felt balanced. usually refers to the difference between frt. and rear end traction. the right balance of which makes the car easier to control and inspires confidence.
agx, ebay coilovers, stock sways. circa 2007
also, those pics don't change the fact that the car felt balanced. usually refers to the difference between frt. and rear end traction. the right balance of which makes the car easier to control and inspires confidence.
#18
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In my NA, I bought it with RB springs and Koni yellows, and the car had some serious roll, felt like crap. Just changing to the FM springs only and adding the FM bumpstops, it feels like a completely different car. I'm on a budget as well and didnt feel like dropping a lot on some coilovers, but I love my Koni/FM springs setup. Stock swaybar btw... i might add a larger front bar sometime soon.
#19
Like hustler said, you can run higher spring rates are shocks of better quality and it will be as comfy if not more comfy than stock suspension. I understand your budget concerns though but this may be something to look forward to later down the road. I'm running Moton Club Sports on my S2000 with 850/700 spring rates and it's great for daily driving aside from the rhythmic swells on the highway like hustler mentioned.
#20
I think you are being over critical. Car looks pretty good considering the parts you have. Of coarse I am not one to critique considering my track experience.
The question I would ask myself is what would get you through the learning curve of track driving faster without developing bad habits. What do the instructors have to say about that?
The question I would ask myself is what would get you through the learning curve of track driving faster without developing bad habits. What do the instructors have to say about that?
If have to agree. It's not what the car looks like but what it feels like on the track. I'm running 700/450 springs and I still get some roll. But the car feels perfect so I don't worry.