View Poll Results: What thermostat are the track guys running?
Factory 195 degree themostat
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5
14.29%
Optional 180 degree thermostat
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20
57.14%
No thermostat
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4
11.43%
Replace coolant with liquid helium
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6
17.14%
Voters: 35. You may not vote on this poll
Track thermostat?
#21
Cpt. Slow
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What about the 160*? I don't see that option...
Really it just opens sooner rather than helping with cooling, but yeah, I'd definitely run a gutted thermostat over nothing.
My thought is if I do a cool off lap, it'll try to return to 160* over 180* or 195*, and last a while longer the next time I flog it. Then again with proper ducting, reroute, 2.5" radiator, and water wetter, I've gotten rid of my over heating issues for the time being.
Really it just opens sooner rather than helping with cooling, but yeah, I'd definitely run a gutted thermostat over nothing.
My thought is if I do a cool off lap, it'll try to return to 160* over 180* or 195*, and last a while longer the next time I flog it. Then again with proper ducting, reroute, 2.5" radiator, and water wetter, I've gotten rid of my over heating issues for the time being.
#22
Boost Pope
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I don't have detailed specs for the 1.8 NAs, but the 1.6 thermostats were rated for initial opening on the main thermostat between 188-193°F, with full opening at 212°F.
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/race-prep-75/43707-track-thermostat-yvxoo.gif?dateline=1337279484)
I don't think the '94-'97 thermotats were any different- NAPA et al all list 190-195° as "OEM Equivalent"
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/race-prep-75/43707-track-thermostat-yvxoo.gif?dateline=1337279484)
I don't think the '94-'97 thermotats were any different- NAPA et al all list 190-195° as "OEM Equivalent"
#26
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What about the 160*? I don't see that option...
Really it just opens sooner rather than helping with cooling, but yeah, I'd definitely run a gutted thermostat over nothing.
My thought is if I do a cool off lap, it'll try to return to 160* over 180* or 195*, and last a while longer the next time I flog it. Then again with proper ducting, reroute, 2.5" radiator, and water wetter, I've gotten rid of my over heating issues for the time being.
Really it just opens sooner rather than helping with cooling, but yeah, I'd definitely run a gutted thermostat over nothing.
My thought is if I do a cool off lap, it'll try to return to 160* over 180* or 195*, and last a while longer the next time I flog it. Then again with proper ducting, reroute, 2.5" radiator, and water wetter, I've gotten rid of my over heating issues for the time being.
Bob
#27
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
So why is it that having a gutted thermostat is better than nothing? The hose it would go to right after the thermostat is the same size as the hole in the now gutted thermostat. I have just accepted it as common knowledge but does anyone actually have expirience using it both with no thermostat and a gutted unit?
#28
Tour de Franzia
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So why is it that having a gutted thermostat is better than nothing? The hose it would go to right after the thermostat is the same size as the hole in the now gutted thermostat. I have just accepted it as common knowledge but does anyone actually have expirience using it both with no thermostat and a gutted unit?
I'm going to kill my heater lines in the near future because they annoy me.
#29
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Other than the potential it could fail in some way I can’t see a reason for not running a properly functioning thermostat even in a race car and even with all other lines blocked. Maybe somebody can enlighten me.
1) Thermostat allows the engine temp to come up to operating range quickly reducing the amount of time your getting cold piston slap wearing rings and cylinder walls at startup and warm up. Helping things to come to and stay in the proper temp range where blow-by is reduced as well.
2) Thermostat keeps the engine within a temp range better. Doesn’t allow it to drop like a rock when the pace car comes out or something.
3) I find it hard to believe peak cooling capacity is improved without it. A bit of restriction at the location of the thermostat will keep coolant pressure in the head and block higher than what the radiator cap sees which is a good thing to prevent micro boiling and loss of heat transfer from the engine to the coolant.
4) I’m pretty sure circulation can be cut to zero on these engines without issues even if you do block all other bypass routes. The water pump is not positive displacement it will churn around coolant just in the block and head just fine without being able to circulating flow to the radiator.
Bob
1) Thermostat allows the engine temp to come up to operating range quickly reducing the amount of time your getting cold piston slap wearing rings and cylinder walls at startup and warm up. Helping things to come to and stay in the proper temp range where blow-by is reduced as well.
2) Thermostat keeps the engine within a temp range better. Doesn’t allow it to drop like a rock when the pace car comes out or something.
3) I find it hard to believe peak cooling capacity is improved without it. A bit of restriction at the location of the thermostat will keep coolant pressure in the head and block higher than what the radiator cap sees which is a good thing to prevent micro boiling and loss of heat transfer from the engine to the coolant.
4) I’m pretty sure circulation can be cut to zero on these engines without issues even if you do block all other bypass routes. The water pump is not positive displacement it will churn around coolant just in the block and head just fine without being able to circulating flow to the radiator.
Bob
#30
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
So why is it that having a gutted thermostat is better than nothing? The hose it would go to right after the thermostat is the same size as the hole in the now gutted thermostat. I have just accepted it as common knowledge but does anyone actually have expirience using it both with no thermostat and a gutted unit?
Bob
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