Track brakes
#1
Track brakes
Alright guys I know I'm gonna get flamed for this, I've searched. The best thread I've found on track pads was Hustlers from a couple years ago (https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep-75/pad-do-i-want-45220/) Every post I find people are comparing pads from corrado, wilwood and other set-ups and many have a proportioning valve.Help me with my track brake set-up, please.
I've got a '92 with 1.8 brakes front and rear, 225 whp and weighs in at 2540 with me in it. Most track days will be run a CMP which is brake intensive and hot and 20-25 minutes sessions. I've got about 7 track days under my belt and this will be my first season in the miata (first RWD even).Something that will last a season of about 4 track weekends would be great, if possible. Also, how important is an adjustable proportioning valve?
I appreciate any help you can give. If your gonna reply with "been posted a million times" give me links, please.
I've got a '92 with 1.8 brakes front and rear, 225 whp and weighs in at 2540 with me in it. Most track days will be run a CMP which is brake intensive and hot and 20-25 minutes sessions. I've got about 7 track days under my belt and this will be my first season in the miata (first RWD even).Something that will last a season of about 4 track weekends would be great, if possible. Also, how important is an adjustable proportioning valve?
I appreciate any help you can give. If your gonna reply with "been posted a million times" give me links, please.
#3
The 1.8's should be ok until you really get into some legenthy lapping sessions and get confident in pushing your car to the limits. One thing I would recommend would be to bleed your lines and put in some high temp fluid and stainless lines. If you're going to do that and your budget isn't tight you might as well get a Trackspeed Engineering BBK or 949 racing BBK. Both come with the Wilwood calipers and now 2 piece rotors. you might want to upgrade the rears to sport brakes and add that prop valve so the bias is correct or the braking distances might suffer but they will be a lot less likly to fade and overheat. That's the basics, but like I said I would push the 1.8 brakes until you feel like they are a limiting factor for you.
#4
I have done CMP several times in my 1.8 '91, but I don't have the turbo on there yet. I have had great luck with Carbotechs on standard 1.8 brakes. Last time I went there were a few MSM, turbo and supercharged miata guys out on the track. The ~200whp guys seemed to have no issues running the corrado fronts and sport rears. I am personally planning on doing a corrado upgrade with the turbo, if it ever goes on the car.
What kind of tire are you running?
What kind of tire are you running?
#5
Former Vendor
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Our 11.75 front BBK, prop valve kit, and brake duct kit, M-Tuned rear BRK, DTC-60 pads front and rear, and an NB Sport master/booster.
Buy everything except the sport master/booster from us, add a Motive bleeder for flawless 1-man bleeds, and you'll have the best Miata brakes money can buy.
I run this exact setup on Theseus and Rover, and I've never driven a Miata with better brakes.
Buy everything except the sport master/booster from us, add a Motive bleeder for flawless 1-man bleeds, and you'll have the best Miata brakes money can buy.
I run this exact setup on Theseus and Rover, and I've never driven a Miata with better brakes.
#6
Tour de Franzia
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For now, just run DTC-60 pads all the way around or something that can take lots of heat. Save your pennies for the TSE hugest brakes, they enriched my life.
My brakes are up to their sustained temps on the second lap of any session; caliper temps hit their peak on the second lap too. Eventually the wheels stop pulling heat out of the rotor, but you know what's up on the 2nd or third lap. Brakes don't get "hotter" after 10-minutes. Have you ever even been on a racetrack?
The TSE kit will save you money. My $60 pads are lasting ~10 days, the $31 rotors last twice as long. I went an entire season on 1.5 sets of pads and 1 set of rotors. They also probably make wheel bearings last longer because the rotor temps are so much lower.
The 1.8's should be ok until you really get into some legenthy lapping sessions and get confident in pushing your car to the limits. One thing I would recommend would be to bleed your lines and put in some high temp fluid and stainless lines. If you're going to do that and your budget isn't tight you might as well get a Trackspeed Engineering BBK or 949 racing BBK. Both come with the Wilwood calipers and now 2 piece rotors. you might want to upgrade the rears to sport brakes and add that prop valve so the bias is correct or the braking distances might suffer but they will be a lot less likly to fade and overheat. That's the basics, but like I said I would push the 1.8 brakes until you feel like they are a limiting factor for you.
The TSE kit will save you money. My $60 pads are lasting ~10 days, the $31 rotors last twice as long. I went an entire season on 1.5 sets of pads and 1 set of rotors. They also probably make wheel bearings last longer because the rotor temps are so much lower.
#8
Alright guys I know I'm gonna get flamed for this, I've searched. The best thread I've found on track pads was Hustlers from a couple years ago (https://www.miataturbo.net/showthread.php?t=45220) Every post I find people are comparing pads from corrado, wilwood and other set-ups and many have a proportioning valve.Help me with my track brake set-up, please.
I've got a '92 with 1.8 brakes front and rear, 225 whp and weighs in at 2540 with me in it. Most track days will be run a CMP which is brake intensive and hot and 20-25 minutes sessions. I've got about 7 track days under my belt and this will be my first season in the miata (first RWD even).Something that will last a season of about 4 track weekends would be great, if possible. Also, how important is an adjustable proportioning valve?
I appreciate any help you can give. If your gonna reply with "been posted a million times" give me links, please.
I've got a '92 with 1.8 brakes front and rear, 225 whp and weighs in at 2540 with me in it. Most track days will be run a CMP which is brake intensive and hot and 20-25 minutes sessions. I've got about 7 track days under my belt and this will be my first season in the miata (first RWD even).Something that will last a season of about 4 track weekends would be great, if possible. Also, how important is an adjustable proportioning valve?
I appreciate any help you can give. If your gonna reply with "been posted a million times" give me links, please.
What tire+wheel combo btw? Thats pretty important in this discussion.
At your whp, I would suggest a step up in the brakes department, you don't want to to heat them up too much at the kink and have no brakes for turn 11!
#12
Former Vendor
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I've spoken with Hawk about having rear pads made for Sport brackets, but the MOQ is a little higher than I would want to swallow for such a low-volume pad.
#14
Or are you saying to find 1.8 calipers and just bolt them to my current sport brackets? If that is the case, then yes, I have also read that they bolt up.
sport
standard
Is there any reason to keep the sport rear calipers?
#15
I would stay out of it (probably limit it to ~105-110mph) on the straight before the kink and front straight if you do overheat though.
#16
That's all i've done through the kink anyway cause i'm a big chickenshit. Lol. Still have about 6' of run out left and have yet to stay flat through there. Running right behind an STI as we went through at 105+ and him spinning right in front of me didn't help build confidence either. Haha
#18
Tour de Franzia
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That's all i've done through the kink anyway cause i'm a big chickenshit. Lol. Still have about 6' of run out left and have yet to stay flat through there. Running right behind an STI as we went through at 105+ and him spinning right in front of me didn't help build confidence either. Haha
#19
Tour de Franzia
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When it comes to rebuild/replace it comes down to three factors. I will always rebuild a front caliper. If the rear springy park brake part of the rear caliper is messed-up or leaking, I buy a new one. If I'm short on time or feeling lazy, I'll buy a replacement.