These corner weights possible?
#1
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My corner weights seem way, way out of line with everyone else's.
2001, naturally aspirated, power steering removed, shock tower brace removed, trunk stripped, behind driver's seat stripped, no passenger's seat, passenger airbag removed, glovebox gone, TSE radiator, single fan, aftermarket header/exhaust, roll bar, 3/4 tank of fuel, charcoal delete.
With 200 lbs of ballast total (passenger and driver's side), I got:
FL 673 FR 695
RL 574 RR 572
Suspension is 12" front, 12.38" rear (raised rear to hit camber).
So, that's 54.4% on the front end. That just doesn't seem right to me. I know I removed more weight in back than in front, but I added a lot back with a roll bar.
Thoughts? Thinking of calling and asking where they put the ballast. I don't see them putting it in the footwell, but it's the only explanation I can think of. Don't see how rake would make that big of a difference.
2001, naturally aspirated, power steering removed, shock tower brace removed, trunk stripped, behind driver's seat stripped, no passenger's seat, passenger airbag removed, glovebox gone, TSE radiator, single fan, aftermarket header/exhaust, roll bar, 3/4 tank of fuel, charcoal delete.
With 200 lbs of ballast total (passenger and driver's side), I got:
FL 673 FR 695
RL 574 RR 572
Suspension is 12" front, 12.38" rear (raised rear to hit camber).
So, that's 54.4% on the front end. That just doesn't seem right to me. I know I removed more weight in back than in front, but I added a lot back with a roll bar.
Thoughts? Thinking of calling and asking where they put the ballast. I don't see them putting it in the footwell, but it's the only explanation I can think of. Don't see how rake would make that big of a difference.
#5
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Just a couple questions first. Are the scales perfectly level? How much fuel do you have in the car? Is this with out you in the car? Is the car being built for a certain spec and that is the reason for the ballast?
It seems like you have spent time with the ride heights in order to get the side to side balance well. I would just start moving the ballast around if possible. The first place to start would be to place it in the spare tire well.
If the weights are without a driver in the car, then I would find a friend to sit in the car that is of similar weight to you and start over again. If still nose heavy I would look to move the weight to the right rear trunk.
It seems like you have spent time with the ride heights in order to get the side to side balance well. I would just start moving the ballast around if possible. The first place to start would be to place it in the spare tire well.
If the weights are without a driver in the car, then I would find a friend to sit in the car that is of similar weight to you and start over again. If still nose heavy I would look to move the weight to the right rear trunk.
#8
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Just a couple questions first. Are the scales perfectly level? How much fuel do you have in the car? Is this with out you in the car? Is the car being built for a certain spec and that is the reason for the ballast?
It seems like you have spent time with the ride heights in order to get the side to side balance well. I would just start moving the ballast around if possible. The first place to start would be to place it in the spare tire well.
If the weights are without a driver in the car, then I would find a friend to sit in the car that is of similar weight to you and start over again. If still nose heavy I would look to move the weight to the right rear trunk.
It seems like you have spent time with the ride heights in order to get the side to side balance well. I would just start moving the ballast around if possible. The first place to start would be to place it in the spare tire well.
If the weights are without a driver in the car, then I would find a friend to sit in the car that is of similar weight to you and start over again. If still nose heavy I would look to move the weight to the right rear trunk.
Not my scales, it's a shop that works on NASA cars, so I'd hope they were level, but I can't verify that.
No, the ballast was to simulate a driver and a (heavier than I told them to put) passenger's seat.
Last edited by Nagase; 09-08-2013 at 02:24 PM.
#10
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You're doing those weights with the driver in and race fuel, right?
I always get front wheels within 10lb max and preferable perfect. More than 10lb in my seven or midget and the lighter wheel will lock first... MX5 will be slightly more tolerant but it's not ideal. Don't stress too much over perfect 50/50 front/rear until you do some testing. The tyres will heat up differently due to driving style, circuit, RWD etc... you can play as part of testing by moving the ballast. Make different mounting points for the ballast to enable it to be moved on a test day...
CM
I always get front wheels within 10lb max and preferable perfect. More than 10lb in my seven or midget and the lighter wheel will lock first... MX5 will be slightly more tolerant but it's not ideal. Don't stress too much over perfect 50/50 front/rear until you do some testing. The tyres will heat up differently due to driving style, circuit, RWD etc... you can play as part of testing by moving the ballast. Make different mounting points for the ballast to enable it to be moved on a test day...
CM
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