Splitter material--what do you use?
#21
I used 2 layers of 5mm Chinese Imported underlayment plywood from Home Depot (looks and feels like birch) laminated together. The part that sticks out forward is and where it is attached is 2 layers thick the part under the car is one layer thick.
Light, Stiff, Cheap to make spares.
I had the car roll forward on the trailer and dropped it on the tong of the trailer. The splitter held the car up and it just damaged it a little.
Bob
Light, Stiff, Cheap to make spares.
I had the car roll forward on the trailer and dropped it on the tong of the trailer. The splitter held the car up and it just damaged it a little.
Bob
#24
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Edmonton Ab, Canada
Posts: 1,202
Total Cats: 21
can u guys help me out here. that red thing is there so if you stuff it in the sand trap they can pull the motor and put the rest in the trash?
Attachment 51230
Attachment 51230
As for the splitters,
Fiberglass fail, time for something much stronger.
#25
well, my new 1/4" birch version survived a full weekend of hill climbing. There wasn't any curbing to rub it on, but it did bottom out plenty of times on the rough public road without damage. It is pretty flimsy, but I only have 7 mounting points. 2 more might make it stiff enough to give me more confidence in it... or maybe I'll just find some 3/8" to make another one out of and keep the 1/4" one as a spare.
I haven't even tried standing on it yet... I think I would break it, lol
I haven't even tried standing on it yet... I think I would break it, lol
#26
I've been using a 1/2" birch splitter with a single layer of fiberglass for 7 weekends. The fiberglass has scrapped off a little on the bottom edges, but just touching it up with paint and no issues.
I wanted to do a 3/8" based on others here, but couldn't find any locally. I'll also be trying out the 1/4" next time, maybe with a few layers of fiberglass.
I wanted to do a 3/8" based on others here, but couldn't find any locally. I'll also be trying out the 1/4" next time, maybe with a few layers of fiberglass.
#28
Former Vendor
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Posts: 15,442
Total Cats: 2,103
I used an 1/8th aluminum sheet but had to reinforce it with a piece of aluminum C channel as a spine down the center. It also only sticks out 3 inches from the Tougerun lip.
It touches the ground daily and its lasted all summer so far with no real significant battle scars.
It touches the ground daily and its lasted all summer so far with no real significant battle scars.
#29
If I had a track rat that never saw water, never tagged curbs, never sat in a parking lot with a-holes, and had 50 dollars to throw at the splitter I'd probably follow you're setup.
I just couldn't pass free, plus I felt it better for a street car. It extends back to the transmission and doubles as a skid for the aluminum oil pan that's already been messaged by the road.
NTM I don't have the sac to take corners like ya'll do on a daily basis
I just couldn't pass free, plus I felt it better for a street car. It extends back to the transmission and doubles as a skid for the aluminum oil pan that's already been messaged by the road.
NTM I don't have the sac to take corners like ya'll do on a daily basis
Last edited by chpmnsws6; 08-05-2012 at 11:13 PM.
#32
As a reference for how well a splitter needs to be mounted, a CSP splitter built to the limit of the rules produces enough downforce at auto-x speed that if its connected by the air dam to the bumper and just 2 front supports to the baby teeth it will stretch the bumper and you will see stretch marks in the bumper paint.
#40
6 plies of 3k carbon twill over 1/4" Luan (3 plies each, top and bottom). Made with cheap US Composites epoxy and a hood rat vacuum pump made from a refrigerator compressor. Stiff enough not to deflect at 100mph, but really needs a couple of front supports. He's really busy with work and a new baby, though, and I just haven't dragged him down to the shop to fabricate them.
Diffuser and wing to come... one day.