so I spent the day getting my ass beat by a car with AFCO and street rubber
#82
Junior Member
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Houston, TX / Lafayette, LA
Posts: 272
Total Cats: 3
well damn. I just want to see what all that turbo stuff is all about. Yall go on and on about how great it is and i feel that i'm missing out on something.
WTB a ride in a turbo car
WTB a ride in a turbo car
#85
Junior Member
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Houston, TX / Lafayette, LA
Posts: 272
Total Cats: 3
I was being nice and waiting for a point. We had so much track time that day that I didnt mind chasing for a while. I was also trying to see if his lines in the bumpy corners were any less bumpy than the ones i was taking.
#86
Tour de Franzia
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
That track beat my car to ****, all kinds of **** came loose...but the manifold and DP held strong, lol.
#87
Junior Member
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Houston, TX / Lafayette, LA
Posts: 272
Total Cats: 3
I'm spinning that little MP62 to 13.5k rpm, there is not too much more in it before I exceed the 'recommended' rpm limit.
Maybe next year when I run Unlimited, I'll try to get more power.
Maybe next year when I run Unlimited, I'll try to get more power.
#88
Tour de Franzia
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
I'm trying to line-up a datalogger for next weekend because I need to buy a compressor, not a logger. I want to see how much grip the new suspension settings added. Last time at msr I could not break 1.18g's sustained.
#89
Elite Member
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 4,847
Total Cats: 27
No you are right. I keep forgetting about this point-to-pass stuff for the HPDEs.
Over-under is my favorite passing move. It works well in turn 6 entering the back straight at TWS. That is unless the other guy has twice as much power as I do, like SV-650 (me) versus liter bike (them)
#90
Tour de Franzia
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
No you are right. I keep forgetting about this point-to-pass stuff for the HPDEs.
Over-under is my favorite passing move. It works well in turn 6 entering the back straight at TWS. That is unless the other guy has twice as much power as I do, like SV-650 (me) versus liter bike (them)
Over-under is my favorite passing move. It works well in turn 6 entering the back straight at TWS. That is unless the other guy has twice as much power as I do, like SV-650 (me) versus liter bike (them)
#92
Elite Member
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 4,847
Total Cats: 27
It's a little insane but it is ******* awesome. There is nothing like being leaned way over through a corner, hanging off the bike, dragging knee, passing a guy (or being passed by a guy) so close you could reach out and touch him.
The SV650 with a couple of suspension mods is a fantastic track bike. It can really rail through the corners and the flat powerband makes it easier to ride fast. The Formula 2 (F2) class in the CMRA Endurance series has been dominated by SV-650s since they came out. I still have mine, a first gen, full race bodywork, stripped, 41mm flatslides, cam swap, race exhaust, GSXR forks with radial brakes. I cannot bring myself to sell it yet.
A 600 has to really be ridden hard to get the most out of it, and liter bikes are just way too insane for me to ride to their limits on the track. Riding a liter bike around on the street is one thing. Trying to run in the low 1:40s on one at TWS is just nuts. I have great respect for those who can do it well. My fastest lap times at MSRC and TWS are on a SV650 even though I have tried hard to surpass those times on a 600 and a liter bike.
The SV650 with a couple of suspension mods is a fantastic track bike. It can really rail through the corners and the flat powerband makes it easier to ride fast. The Formula 2 (F2) class in the CMRA Endurance series has been dominated by SV-650s since they came out. I still have mine, a first gen, full race bodywork, stripped, 41mm flatslides, cam swap, race exhaust, GSXR forks with radial brakes. I cannot bring myself to sell it yet.
A 600 has to really be ridden hard to get the most out of it, and liter bikes are just way too insane for me to ride to their limits on the track. Riding a liter bike around on the street is one thing. Trying to run in the low 1:40s on one at TWS is just nuts. I have great respect for those who can do it well. My fastest lap times at MSRC and TWS are on a SV650 even though I have tried hard to surpass those times on a 600 and a liter bike.
#94
I HAVE to get my little brother to read this.
He's up to 6-8 track days a year, about to get licensed, and looking at his bike options. He gets dual use out of his '08 ZX-6R, but is investing heavily in gear/equipment as he gets better, and is convinced he needs two bikes.
His solution is to buy a ZX-10R for the street,and make the 600 a dedicated track bike. I keep trying to tell him a small, beater twin would be better, and make him a faster rider...but he LOVES that Ninja.
While I don't blame him, I'd prefer to see him enjoy his hobby at minimal cost and max enjoyment.
#95
Tour de Franzia
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
I'm considering going to TDR today and getting softer rear springs too since I have a 10k/7k set-up currently.
#97
Junior Member
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Houston, TX / Lafayette, LA
Posts: 272
Total Cats: 3
I'm going with the theory that you only need enough spring to keep you off of the bumpstops at your ride height. if you want to run really low you need stiffer springs.
There are of course other contributing factors. if you have limited bump travel you need stiffer springs. conversly, if you have alot of bump travel you can get away with less spring.
Similarly lighter cars so not require as much spring as heavier cars.
Another thing to consider is aero loading. once you add a wing/splitter you'll have to reevaluate your setup, especially in fast corners.
Typically with miatas your travel limitation is going to be the rears. I picked my rear spring rates to stay off the bumpstops and matched the fronts accordingly to create the balance i want.
gospeed: When I ran Tein Basics (7/6) I found that anything much under 12.25" in the rear would put you onthe bumpstops. It's be fine for the street, but on track I would roll on to them shortly after turnin. Also since the spring rates are so rear biased, I was not able to run a rear swaybar which exacerbated the problem. So basically what are your intentions for the car and what ride height do you plan to run?
There are of course other contributing factors. if you have limited bump travel you need stiffer springs. conversly, if you have alot of bump travel you can get away with less spring.
Similarly lighter cars so not require as much spring as heavier cars.
Another thing to consider is aero loading. once you add a wing/splitter you'll have to reevaluate your setup, especially in fast corners.
Typically with miatas your travel limitation is going to be the rears. I picked my rear spring rates to stay off the bumpstops and matched the fronts accordingly to create the balance i want.
gospeed: When I ran Tein Basics (7/6) I found that anything much under 12.25" in the rear would put you onthe bumpstops. It's be fine for the street, but on track I would roll on to them shortly after turnin. Also since the spring rates are so rear biased, I was not able to run a rear swaybar which exacerbated the problem. So basically what are your intentions for the car and what ride height do you plan to run?
#98
gospeed: When I ran Tein Basics (7/6) I found that anything much under 12.25" in the rear would put you onthe bumpstops. It's be fine for the street, but on track I would roll on to them shortly after turnin. Also since the spring rates are so rear biased, I was not able to run a rear swaybar which exacerbated the problem. So basically what are your intentions for the car and what ride height do you plan to run?
Purely street use, with AutoX intentions I'll never realize.
I don't plan on being much below 12.5", but I'm having problems getting much higher than that.
I recently enjoyed a 450/250 setup I drove on for a few days (old Bilstein HDs I sold), and am convinced a similar ratio, maybe a little lower FRC ~400/250, would be nice.
I can't really find much in the way of lower rear springs, but have a line on some 8kg/mm springs for the fronts, as well as some 550lb/in QA1s. The first set wouldn't quite make enough difference I don't think (~448/336), and the second set (550s), while nearly the exact ratio I'm looking for, is probably too much for the damper.