Rotella Synth is holding up really well in my car
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M1 is really good stuff too but 50% more expensive and you have to 15w50 if you want something that can shear-down to 30w with fuel contamination.
If I can clean up the fuel issue and get oil temps down I could potentially run Rotella 30w dino.
If I can clean up the fuel issue and get oil temps down I could potentially run Rotella 30w dino.
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Pretty much anything other than Fram last time I looked into it. Purolator, Wix. and Mobil 1 are what I look for, particularly Purolator. Also there is a larger (longer) filter that fits the Miata though I forget the damn numbers to look for. There is a thread here or at m.n about it somewhere.
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Keep the dino in it for at least two or three events, or 1000 miles. I switched to Synth right after my dyno tune at like ~50 miles and immediately started having blowby issues. I think switching early was a bad plan (synth doesn't let the rings seat).
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Pretty much anything other than Fram last time I looked into it. Purolator, Wix. and Mobil 1 are what I look for, particularly Purolator. Also there is a larger (longer) filter that fits the Miata though I forget the damn numbers to look for. There is a thread here or at m.n about it somewhere.
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Pretty much anything other than Fram last time I looked into it. Purolator, Wix. and Mobil 1 are what I look for, particularly Purolator. Also there is a larger (longer) filter that fits the Miata though I forget the damn numbers to look for. There is a thread here or at m.n about it somewhere.
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Pretty much anything other than Fram last time I looked into it. Purolator, Wix. and Mobil 1 are what I look for, particularly Purolator. Also there is a larger (longer) filter that fits the Miata though I forget the damn numbers to look for. There is a thread here or at m.n about it somewhere.
Mobil 1 part number M1-108 and K&N number HP-1008. Only difference I can see is in the outer shell, with the K&N being slightly thicker and also having the "wrench-off" hex thingy on the end. The innards looked identical as far as I could tell without cutting them apart.
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For the UOA faggettes who have read more about this than I have, is the Rotella synth measurably better than M1 0w40 or GC 0w30 in turbo cars that see track use? I don't suppose there have been any head-to-head comparisons on the same turbo Miata? My turbo **** will be installed sometime during my next oil change interval. I have a small stash of the M1 and GC, but could switch to Rotella if it's significantly better.
Another major benefit is that because diesel burns much dirtier than gasoline, diesel oils have far more particulate trapping detergents than gasoline engine oils. This keeps our little gasoline engines very clean inside compared to those running gasoline engine oils.
The diesel oils also typically have better viscosity extending polymers that are less likely to break down over time than the cheaper ones.
From what I've read, if you have a vehicle in a temperate climate and/or one that cranks once and runs all day or starts warm over and over all day long (mail carrier, police car, taxi, sales representative) you can easily run a single weight oil like "Mr. Hustler" is going to be doing. But don't drive it and especially don't boost it until it reaches proper operating temperature. They don't like that as much.
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I ran OEM's forever. For the money they are fantastic. I worked at autozone for a short while. My buddy that worked there said a K&N cut down on lifter noise. I figured i would take the gamble and try it. It worked, less noise from the lifters, but that makes sense, less filtration equals higher oil flow and vise versa. I've been considering a reuseable one. I wont be tracking the car again until I go built internals though, I tracked it NA with factory internals, but once the turbo goes on, I'm not sure how the engine will like it. Anyways, back on track, I am glad i can cut back on my filter spending, atleast to the mobil filter.
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I scored a free gallon of AMSoil 10w40 High Zinc for free in return for running an analysis on it. Each sample here saw about 1000-1500 miles and 2-track days with about 4-hours on each change.
![](http://i56.tinypic.com/muv9qh.jpg)
General thoughts:
i think AMSoil is a great oil if you're running lean like an NA car. It will probably do better for extended changes.
Rotella Synthetic is a badass oil, and I like the extra molly, plus its $20 and available at Wal-Mart.
I might switch to dino Rotella since fuel contamination is shearing the oil rather than actual lubricant break-down.
Flashpoint is my determining factor on the oil change, without the oil cooler I'd be looking at problems with ashing.
Damn, this motor is wearing wonderfully when you consider it has about 40-hours of racing and 20k miles on it with more than double the factory output.
![](http://i56.tinypic.com/muv9qh.jpg)
General thoughts:
i think AMSoil is a great oil if you're running lean like an NA car. It will probably do better for extended changes.
Rotella Synthetic is a badass oil, and I like the extra molly, plus its $20 and available at Wal-Mart.
I might switch to dino Rotella since fuel contamination is shearing the oil rather than actual lubricant break-down.
Flashpoint is my determining factor on the oil change, without the oil cooler I'd be looking at problems with ashing.
Damn, this motor is wearing wonderfully when you consider it has about 40-hours of racing and 20k miles on it with more than double the factory output.
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What do the massive differences in mollybendium, magnesium, and calcium mean to a layman like myself?
I noticed half as much iron in this sample...is that half as much wear?
I noticed half as much iron in this sample...is that half as much wear?
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As far as the iron concerned...that is a good question. If that indeed indicated a 50% reduction in engine wear, that would be a pretty compelling reason to run the amsoil. However, I can't imagine that is what it means.