Reality Check: TSE 11.75 & spacers
#1
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Reality Check: TSE 11.75 & spacers
The TSE 11.75" BBK is provided with 5mm spacers to give clearance with 6ul's. I run 15x9 TRM C3M's. I test fit my BBK and I do have clearance without the spacers, but not much. My questions are:
- In reality, how much deflection in the brake caliper mtg and/or wheel will I see on the track? How much clearance is needed? It looks like I have more clearance from caliper to spoke then from caliper to outer rim.
- If I do use 5mm spacers, is it necessary to use longer studs? how much thread engagement can i expect without it (I understand this somewhat depends on my wheels)
- Is my best option to just buy new wheel bearings at the same time so I can press the ARP studs in at work?
I would live to avoid the cost of new wheel bearings/ARP studs/949 open ended lug nuts. . . Or at least put it off a season or 2 until I get to brake ducting and pull the hubs off anyway.
- In reality, how much deflection in the brake caliper mtg and/or wheel will I see on the track? How much clearance is needed? It looks like I have more clearance from caliper to spoke then from caliper to outer rim.
- If I do use 5mm spacers, is it necessary to use longer studs? how much thread engagement can i expect without it (I understand this somewhat depends on my wheels)
- Is my best option to just buy new wheel bearings at the same time so I can press the ARP studs in at work?
I would live to avoid the cost of new wheel bearings/ARP studs/949 open ended lug nuts. . . Or at least put it off a season or 2 until I get to brake ducting and pull the hubs off anyway.
#2
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You're good up to 1/4" spacers without new lugs, do your own conversion math. I might measure the hub and spacer and see how many threads that leaves you. I thought there was a "threads required" spec on 949's site.
#3
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The TSE 11.75" BBK is provided with 5mm spacers to give clearance with 6ul's. I run 15x9 TRM C3M's. I test fit my BBK and I do have clearance without the spacers, but not much. My questions are:
- In reality, how much deflection in the brake caliper mtg and/or wheel will I see on the track? How much clearance is needed? It looks like I have more clearance from caliper to spoke then from caliper to outer rim.
- In reality, how much deflection in the brake caliper mtg and/or wheel will I see on the track? How much clearance is needed? It looks like I have more clearance from caliper to spoke then from caliper to outer rim.
- If I do use 5mm spacers, is it necessary to use longer studs? how much thread engagement can i expect without it (I understand this somewhat depends on my wheels)
- Is my best option to just buy new wheel bearings at the same time so I can press the ARP studs in at work?
- Is my best option to just buy new wheel bearings at the same time so I can press the ARP studs in at work?
#4
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LOL sav... you gave me such a mechanical engineering response. No news to me, but thanks for the detailed response ( Im a ME that does machine design). My rule at work is usually 4 thread min. I just didnt know if anyone knew how many threads were actually left with these wheels and I am too lazy to re-test fit. As far as clearance I just have no idea what loads the brakes and wheels actually see so I would only be guessing at the deflection. Ill have to double check the gap, but I would be surprised if I had more than 1/8". Looks like I may do the spacers afterall.
#8
Why? I've done this on multiple cars with perfect results including my Miata. I used a ratchet though, not air tools. One hand in the back making sure it is lined up and one hand slowly ratching. Works perfect every time. Didn't even need to pull the hub off. There is enough space in the back to wiggle the new stud in.
#10
Considering how easy they went in I find that VERY hard to belive. Do you have any evidence or links to back this claim up?
If an ARP stud can't withstand the *maybe* 40ft/lbs of force it took to pull them in with a standard ratchet, then they sure as hell won't manage the 80ft/lbs needed to torque a wheel. Which they do. So in my mind, it's perfectly fine to use the method I did provided you don't use air tools and take your time. It took literally half an hour to do both my fronts. No down time.
If an ARP stud can't withstand the *maybe* 40ft/lbs of force it took to pull them in with a standard ratchet, then they sure as hell won't manage the 80ft/lbs needed to torque a wheel. Which they do. So in my mind, it's perfectly fine to use the method I did provided you don't use air tools and take your time. It took literally half an hour to do both my fronts. No down time.
#12
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Considering how easy they went in I find that VERY hard to belive. Do you have any evidence or links to back this claim up?
If an ARP stud can't withstand the *maybe* 40ft/lbs of force it took to pull them in with a standard ratchet, then they sure as hell won't manage the 80ft/lbs needed to torque a wheel. Which they do. So in my mind, it's perfectly fine to use the method I did provided you don't use air tools and take your time. It took literally half an hour to do both my fronts. No down time.
If an ARP stud can't withstand the *maybe* 40ft/lbs of force it took to pull them in with a standard ratchet, then they sure as hell won't manage the 80ft/lbs needed to torque a wheel. Which they do. So in my mind, it's perfectly fine to use the method I did provided you don't use air tools and take your time. It took literally half an hour to do both my fronts. No down time.
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