Hi all,

I've been searching for pictures if Miatas with an aftermarket (wilwood or tilton ) pedal box, and not having much luck.

I have a few reasons for wanting to do this;

-Clearance for my ITB trumpets (RHD car)

-Dual MC brake bias adjustment (and am also retrofitting NB ABS)

-My preference for the feel of floor mounted pedals. This comes from cars I've driven in the past.

I'm looking for pics to see if or how much firewall mods I'll have to do for positioning, assuming the seat is pushed as far back as possible and my 5'11" body.

I guess I'm trying to understand feasibility before dropping $$ on parts :-)

Cheers

Earlysport

Ps. This is in an NA chassis.

 

https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...a-83430/page2/

 

In our NC:

Makes for difficult filling and bleeding of the masters, I would definitely recommend remote mount reservoirs though that still doesn't solve the bleeding.

 

It's not floor mounted but a very easy mod if you can do a bit of welding. https://www.miataturbo.net/suspensio...-delete-86683/

 

Thanks for the pic. It looks to me from both pics with short M/C's I may not have to mod the firewall at all.

I also intend to run remote reservoirs, and wonder then what will make bleeding difficult? With the reservoirs at floor level I guess you need a check valve, and it looks like filling would be a PIA but I assumed with them up high this is not required and it should bleed like anything else? I also have some experience with old 911's with floor mounted M/C's and remote reservoir.

I'll also be running an NB ABS brick mounted at floor level, either front or back of the passenger floor, so I'm guessing this won't be the easiest thing to bleed regardless!

Cheers

Earlysport

 

We have the shorty Tilton M/Cs and the firewall needed hammering for the rear of the M/C to clear.

The remote reservoir makes filling the reservoir much easier but remember for bleeding you still need to put a wrench on those masters. Crawling head-first into the footwell of a racecar with NASCAR door bars just isn't high on the list of "fun" things to do.

Another thing to consider is with floor-mount pedals it's nearly impossible to move the assembly forward enough to match the pedal position to that of factory, unless you actually cut a hole in the firewall and push the masters through the hole. In the NC (which has a slightly longer cabin length than NA/NB) we have the seating position up against the rear bulkhead with a bit more than average recline to it - to the point that we needed a long steering wheel extension to be able to reach the wheel - and that pedal position in the pic above is just right for a 32"-34" inseam driver with the seat all the way back there. My point is just that usually in a race car you set up all the ergonomics at one time (seat, pedals, wheel, dash, etc.) so it's not so much an issue because you just put everything where the driver wants it. If you're just playing with pedals, expect that the pedal position may have to change and if/when it does you'll likely need to rework the rest of the ergonomics.

 

I thought that was only necessary to prime the master cylinder(s) upon first installation of the pedal assembly? Otherwise, don't you bleed the system as you normally would by using the bleeder screws on the brake caliper at each wheel end?

http://tiltonracing.com/wp-content/u...r-Cylinder.pdf

 

Of course, it's not something you're doing all the time but if you're trouble-shooting something, swapping masters, etc. you quickly wish they were more accessible.

 

Why not just put in a remote bleeder?

 

Vegas, my new S1 Supermiata, is getting a Tilton 600 series top swing, bulkhead mount three pedal set. Specifically to allow the bar going from the door hoop/dash bar to the shock tower reinforcement plate to be straight. With a booster, it would have to be curved and sort of obviate it's purpose.
If my math is right, one could eliminate the booster by hacking apart the stock pedal assembly stamping and relocating the brake pedal pivot further up. You'd still have to juggle M/C bore and require a prop valve to fine tune. With the Tilton's I can run to different sized masters and get it pretty close to balanced to start then just fine tune with the remote adjuster.. Probably 3-4 weeks before it's in and pics taken.

 

Did you get these installed?

Looked in your other threads, couldn't see any photos of them installed, or being installed.

Interested to know if they fit OK, and where the pedal positions line up compared to factory. Floor mount versions look like they take up too much room and would be too cramped.

 

No pics yet.