Oil cooler tech
#261
I clicked on this thread for no good reason.
I come in here and see 3D printed awesome!
We just got a Lulzbot Taz 5 at work. I've been going NUTS with it. It can print a 10x10x10 inch cube (roughly). Realistically a home built printer should be able to compete with that as long as you build it big enough. It's amazing what you can do with aluminum extrusions and some NEMA motors.
Kinda wish I had my own machine at home too.
I come in here and see 3D printed awesome!
We just got a Lulzbot Taz 5 at work. I've been going NUTS with it. It can print a 10x10x10 inch cube (roughly). Realistically a home built printer should be able to compete with that as long as you build it big enough. It's amazing what you can do with aluminum extrusions and some NEMA motors.
Kinda wish I had my own machine at home too.
Have not tried that yet but it sounds interesting for a one of part.
#262
2 Props,3 Dildos,& 1 Cat
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Its roughly 7.75" x 7.75" x 11". The duct print is about the biggest thing I can do, and even then I had to split it in half.
If you start trying to print ABS at these dimensions, you will realize two things:
1. Warping gets more and more troublesome the larger the part gets
2. Things take FOREVER to print. Even at 0.25mm layers, the largest part of the duct took about 18 hours.
If you start trying to print ABS at these dimensions, you will realize two things:
1. Warping gets more and more troublesome the larger the part gets
2. Things take FOREVER to print. Even at 0.25mm layers, the largest part of the duct took about 18 hours.
#267
For those of you that have placed a largish oil cooler behind your radiator....did you see an increase in coolant temps? I finally have my coolant temps nice and low. I'm concerned that partially blocking the flow through the back of the radiator could be an issue. I would plan on making sure I hade an inch or two between them.
#272
Former Vendor
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I'm preparing to put my motor back in and wanted to sort out my sandwich plate situation first. I finally purchased a mocal tsat plate along with a setrab cooler and all the 10AN fittings/line. I have removed the factory warmer and recalled from a previous thread that in order to make up the space and give myself an extra port for oil feed and oil gauge to get the glowshift or equivalent sandwich adapter as well.
I tried mocking up these parts this evening with little success as the stud from the block is about 3/8" too long for the mocal threaded adapter to tighten the two plates securely.
Can anyone shed some light on the topic? I can likely machine something to make this work, but I feel like I'm not the first to encounter this issue.
I tried mocking up these parts this evening with little success as the stud from the block is about 3/8" too long for the mocal threaded adapter to tighten the two plates securely.
Can anyone shed some light on the topic? I can likely machine something to make this work, but I feel like I'm not the first to encounter this issue.
#273
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
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I'm preparing to put my motor back in and wanted to sort out my sandwich plate situation first. I finally purchased a mocal tsat plate along with a setrab cooler and all the 10AN fittings/line. I have removed the factory warmer and recalled from a previous thread that in order to make up the space and give myself an extra port for oil feed and oil gauge to get the glowshift or equivalent sandwich adapter as well.
I tried mocking up these parts this evening with little success as the stud from the block is about 3/8" too long for the mocal threaded adapter to tighten the two plates securely.
Can anyone shed some light on the topic? I can likely machine something to make this work, but I feel like I'm not the first to encounter this issue.
I tried mocking up these parts this evening with little success as the stud from the block is about 3/8" too long for the mocal threaded adapter to tighten the two plates securely.
Can anyone shed some light on the topic? I can likely machine something to make this work, but I feel like I'm not the first to encounter this issue.
#274
I'm preparing to put my motor back in and wanted to sort out my sandwich plate situation first. I finally purchased a mocal tsat plate along with a setrab cooler and all the 10AN fittings/line. I have removed the factory warmer and recalled from a previous thread that in order to make up the space and give myself an extra port for oil feed and oil gauge to get the glowshift or equivalent sandwich adapter as well.
I tried mocking up these parts this evening with little success as the stud from the block is about 3/8" too long for the mocal threaded adapter to tighten the two plates securely.
Can anyone shed some light on the topic? I can likely machine something to make this work, but I feel like I'm not the first to encounter this issue.
I tried mocking up these parts this evening with little success as the stud from the block is about 3/8" too long for the mocal threaded adapter to tighten the two plates securely.
Can anyone shed some light on the topic? I can likely machine something to make this work, but I feel like I'm not the first to encounter this issue.
#275
Former Vendor
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My decision was based on a post made in the cooling system thread by Emilio in which he states:
"This is a question for an oil cooler thread. that we're drafting.
I think you mean the oil warmer. That giblet does nothing to reduce oil temps. Not a single track car in our shop has one. We typically use a Mocal thermostat sandwich plate and generic Chinese temp sender plate (Glow-shift, Greddy, etc)) stacked. TB coolant lines always capped off."
Seen as the last post on page one here: https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep...-thread-79930/
In the event I put the warmer back on, I suppose the convention is I need to add a tapped hole to the mocal plate in order to feed the turbo. I was hoping to get around having to modify another piece, but if that's what it takes I suppose I can make that happen.
"This is a question for an oil cooler thread. that we're drafting.
I think you mean the oil warmer. That giblet does nothing to reduce oil temps. Not a single track car in our shop has one. We typically use a Mocal thermostat sandwich plate and generic Chinese temp sender plate (Glow-shift, Greddy, etc)) stacked. TB coolant lines always capped off."
Seen as the last post on page one here: https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep...-thread-79930/
In the event I put the warmer back on, I suppose the convention is I need to add a tapped hole to the mocal plate in order to feed the turbo. I was hoping to get around having to modify another piece, but if that's what it takes I suppose I can make that happen.
#277
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I'm admittedly new to sourcing the turbo oil feed on the '96+ blocks. I've lived most of my life with a '95 block that handily came with the water and oil ports on the exhaust side, but I feel like I've seen some that have chosen this route. I suppose I could attempt to tee into the VVT oil supply, but I recall some shying away in hesitation that this might not provide enough flow for both the VVT and Turbo.
I'm not opposed to putting the warmer back on, but it seemed there was a preferred path already chosen (in Emilio's post above). Maybe there is more than one school of thought on this.
I'm not opposed to putting the warmer back on, but it seemed there was a preferred path already chosen (in Emilio's post above). Maybe there is more than one school of thought on this.
#278
I use an older NA8 block and source from the exhaust side as it's post filter.
If using a later block just tap off the VVT line (as it's post filter). If you're worried about the flow, remember the EFR is already internally restricted and VVT shouldn't be ~that~ starved for oil. If you have an aftermarket oil pump, worry even less. All excuses aside, what are your other options?
You can repurpose a sandwich plate on the filter to hold the pressure sender and just draw straight from the 1/8bspt sensor port on the VVT hardline direct to turbo.
If using a later block just tap off the VVT line (as it's post filter). If you're worried about the flow, remember the EFR is already internally restricted and VVT shouldn't be ~that~ starved for oil. If you have an aftermarket oil pump, worry even less. All excuses aside, what are your other options?
You can repurpose a sandwich plate on the filter to hold the pressure sender and just draw straight from the 1/8bspt sensor port on the VVT hardline direct to turbo.