Offset bushing and wheel fitment discussions
#61
I suspect lube is not so much required similar to a spherical rod end with Teflon liners. They are cast with por0us bronze impregnated with teflon and oil. I still greased them and the urathane still slides against the chassis at the ends but it is not near as much friction there as what the center shaft surfaces have.
#62
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 18,642
Total Cats: 1,866
From: Beaverton, USA
Hmmm, I like this. Only issue for me is that you are using V8 control arms right? So you can adjust camber there. I wonder if I would be able to hit good camber numbers without offset bushings.
#66
Combine Bobs solution with Urethane and then do this to the LCA (choose your own extension length), and then there isn't much more you need.
New bolts and fixed shims instead of the OEM camber solution is however an improvement, but I have not even taken a photo of that solution (my shock builder has a set on his racer), even further from making my own set.
New bolts and fixed shims instead of the OEM camber solution is however an improvement, but I have not even taken a photo of that solution (my shock builder has a set on his racer), even further from making my own set.
#67
Combine Bobs solution with Urethane and then do this to the LCA (choose your own extension length), and then there isn't much more you need.
I agree with this. Not a bad solution at all.
Although I do like the adjustable front lower ball joint solution like on the V8R. adjustable there and the rear upper makes it so DIY camber adjustment is relatively quick and easy without screwing everything up so bad it takes hours to get right again. You could actually change settings at an event and do back to back testing that way. If you’ve ever fiddled with aligning a Miata you find screwing with the inboard lowers can make a mess of your alignment in a hurry if you’re not on a full alignment rack with expensive equipment.
#69
Combine Bobs solution with Urethane and then do this to the LCA (choose your own extension length), and then there isn't much more you need.
New bolts and fixed shims instead of the OEM camber solution is however an improvement, but I have not even taken a photo of that solution (my shock builder has a set on his racer), even further from making my own set.
New bolts and fixed shims instead of the OEM camber solution is however an improvement, but I have not even taken a photo of that solution (my shock builder has a set on his racer), even further from making my own set.
#71
Thanks Bob. Energy actually lists all of the dimensions on the parts list:
Energy Suspension 11.18102 HyperFlex Master Kit - Mazda Miata Made by Energy Suspension
Energy Suspension 11.18102 HyperFlex Master Kit - Mazda Miata Made by Energy Suspension
#72
FWIW, I have 15x9s and ISC offset upper bushings on my NB and they work using 225 Hoosier A6s and 225 Rivals. I haven't tried other tires except to note that 275 Hoosiers do *not* fit. It rubs on the A-arm at full lock (duh, don't use full lock) but other than that I have no rubbing. I currently have 5mm spacers installed because they're required for the 11.75 TSE brakes, but I did run the 225 Hoosiers without the 5mm spacers for a little while.
--Ian
--Ian
#73
Thanks Bob. Energy actually lists all of the dimensions on the parts list:
Energy Suspension 11.18102 HyperFlex Master Kit - Mazda Miata Made by Energy Suspension
Energy Suspension 11.18102 HyperFlex Master Kit - Mazda Miata Made by Energy Suspension
#75
I've got my lathe guy working on a set like bobs. My solution for the front upper was to say **** it and make some 7/8" OD sleeves, use 1" OD bronze sleeves, and make some aluminum bushings for the upper front arms.
And yeah yeah I'm working on the spherical control arms with more front camber. I have to finish up the rear fixturing design and start making the fixtures.
And yeah yeah I'm working on the spherical control arms with more front camber. I have to finish up the rear fixturing design and start making the fixtures.
#76
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 18,642
Total Cats: 1,866
From: Beaverton, USA
I've got my lathe guy working on a set like bobs. My solution for the front upper was to say **** it and make some 7/8" OD sleeves, use 1" OD bronze sleeves, and make some aluminum bushings for the upper front arms.
And yeah yeah I'm working on the spherical control arms with more front camber. I have to finish up the rear fixturing design and start making the fixtures.
And yeah yeah I'm working on the spherical control arms with more front camber. I have to finish up the rear fixturing design and start making the fixtures.
#80
I suspect lube is not so much required similar to a spherical rod end with Teflon liners. They are cast with por0us bronze impregnated with teflon and oil. I still greased them and the urathane still slides against the chassis at the ends but it is not near as much friction there as what the center shaft surfaces have.
Frictional coefficients for bronze alloys against steel range between 0.08 and 0.14. During wear, or when there is absolutely no lubricant present, the frictional coefficient may range from about 0.12 to as high as 0.18 to 0.30. By comparison, the frictional coefficient during wear for aluminum on steel is 0.32 and for steel on steel it is 1.00.
So they're still going to work really well if they dry out, but they should be kept lubricated to avoid wear. I'd say for most of our track cars, just greasing them every winter or two is sufficient.