MINI 11" rotor instead of Corrado
#141
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I hammered the ever living crap out of them for about 2 hours straight last week doing some pretty harry backroad stupidity. I felt it was a pretty decent test of the braking capabilities of the car and I can say I'm still not happy with the BP-10s. My car is down at the moment and will be for a couple weeks while I wait for parts. When its back up and running it'll have at least XP-8s in the front, so I'll go whomp on it again.
Its hard because I love these brakes compared to the stockers, but I hate the pads. Blegh.
Sorry guys, I had all kinds of plans for trackday shennanigans at the beginning of the year, then I started the EFR project and its been absorbing all my funny money.
Its hard because I love these brakes compared to the stockers, but I hate the pads. Blegh.
Sorry guys, I had all kinds of plans for trackday shennanigans at the beginning of the year, then I started the EFR project and its been absorbing all my funny money.
#143
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[QUOTE=
Are [URL="http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-120-6806"]these[/URL] the correct calipers? WIL-120-6806
QUOTE]
Those are the calipers I used and I believe are the ones most of the miata kits are based on.
Are [URL="http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-120-6806"]these[/URL] the correct calipers? WIL-120-6806
QUOTE]
Those are the calipers I used and I believe are the ones most of the miata kits are based on.
#144
Jalopnik used SE-R calipers and Mini rotors for $350 total:
Power For Pennies: How To Stop On A Dime
Power For Pennies: How To Stop On A Dime
#145
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Jalopnik used SE-R calipers and Mini rotors for $350 total:
Power For Pennies: How To Stop On A Dime
Power For Pennies: How To Stop On A Dime
#147
Jalopnik used SE-R calipers and Mini rotors for $350 total:
Power For Pennies: How To Stop On A Dime
Power For Pennies: How To Stop On A Dime
Never believe anything you read on jalopnik, any 3rd grade english student does more fact checking then they do.
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#148
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I tried the 11.5" mini rotors when I messed with this in the beginning check post #100 for pictures of the 11.5" rotor and Dynalite calipers under the NB 15" wheels. It was tight and needed a wheel spacer. I also tried the 11.5" rotors with factory calipers and could not make it fit. There is no way you could fit those larger SE-R calipers under a 15" wheel.
I doubt the SE-R pads are any cheaper than the dynalite pads which are as cheap as it gets and is one of the primary reasons I chose this setup. The willwood calipers are dirt cheap too. The fact that almost all of the performance 11" and 11.75" kits use these calipers helps too. They are sized to work with the miata hydraulics.
Welding and drilling/tapping brake caliper mounting points would not be my first choice for something as important as brakes!
I doubt the SE-R pads are any cheaper than the dynalite pads which are as cheap as it gets and is one of the primary reasons I chose this setup. The willwood calipers are dirt cheap too. The fact that almost all of the performance 11" and 11.75" kits use these calipers helps too. They are sized to work with the miata hydraulics.
Welding and drilling/tapping brake caliper mounting points would not be my first choice for something as important as brakes!
#149
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Finally got some track time in with these beasties!
Carbotech XP8 all around, no brake ducts, fresh ATE SuperBlue, stainless lines, non sport master and non sport 1.8 rear brake setup. Tires were 2 year old 205 NT-01 on 15x8 6UL and everything bolted to my overweight NB1. Bedded the pads into fresh Centric rotors on Hwy 68 on the way to MRLS I ran in Group C because I was out of town on business and forgot to register for track time until late. Plus I'm slow.
Breaks are awesome. NT-01 and Carbotechs are a hoot to drive. I was able to outcorner and outbreak most everything in my group except for the much lighter NAs that were in a higher state of prep. I had more breaking confidence than most of the other folks on the track, and this made for some interesting entry/exits on the corners. Balance is great and it gave me enough confidence to try a little trail breaking in the corners to keep a little more weight on the nose.
All in all I really enjoy these breaks and the XP8s. Gotta get some more trackdays in so I can start to relearn the car and get faster!
Carbotech XP8 all around, no brake ducts, fresh ATE SuperBlue, stainless lines, non sport master and non sport 1.8 rear brake setup. Tires were 2 year old 205 NT-01 on 15x8 6UL and everything bolted to my overweight NB1. Bedded the pads into fresh Centric rotors on Hwy 68 on the way to MRLS I ran in Group C because I was out of town on business and forgot to register for track time until late. Plus I'm slow.
Breaks are awesome. NT-01 and Carbotechs are a hoot to drive. I was able to outcorner and outbreak most everything in my group except for the much lighter NAs that were in a higher state of prep. I had more breaking confidence than most of the other folks on the track, and this made for some interesting entry/exits on the corners. Balance is great and it gave me enough confidence to try a little trail breaking in the corners to keep a little more weight on the nose.
All in all I really enjoy these breaks and the XP8s. Gotta get some more trackdays in so I can start to relearn the car and get faster!
#154
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The 11" rotors come off of the earlier non-turbo/supercharged Mini's. I don't remember the exact years. You will need different caliper brackets to fit the same Dynalite calipers on the Mini rotors since the rotor offset is different between the two.
If you have aftermarket wheels that can fit a little more brake rotor I would recommend the 11.5" Mini rotor from the turbo/supercharged Minis. They will not fit under factory Miata 15" wheels, but fit without spacers or only need thin spacers to fit under most aftermarket 15" wheels.
No matter which option you choose, add brake ducting. Even though you might not be exceeding the pad temperature limits without ducting, it will always add pad life and more consistent brake response.
The Corrado rotors benefit very little from ducting because they pull air from the wheel side of the rotor so any air directed at the rotor hub does not get pulled through the disk. This is the main reason why Corrado rotors are not the best solution for track use. Go look at some of the old threads that show how the Corrado rotors fail. The factory Miata , Mini and all performance rotors pull air from the hub side of the rotor so that cooler brake duct air directed at the hub get pulled through the disk to optimize cooling.
If you have aftermarket wheels that can fit a little more brake rotor I would recommend the 11.5" Mini rotor from the turbo/supercharged Minis. They will not fit under factory Miata 15" wheels, but fit without spacers or only need thin spacers to fit under most aftermarket 15" wheels.
No matter which option you choose, add brake ducting. Even though you might not be exceeding the pad temperature limits without ducting, it will always add pad life and more consistent brake response.
The Corrado rotors benefit very little from ducting because they pull air from the wheel side of the rotor so any air directed at the rotor hub does not get pulled through the disk. This is the main reason why Corrado rotors are not the best solution for track use. Go look at some of the old threads that show how the Corrado rotors fail. The factory Miata , Mini and all performance rotors pull air from the hub side of the rotor so that cooler brake duct air directed at the hub get pulled through the disk to optimize cooling.
Last edited by Rallas; 02-27-2018 at 04:39 PM.
#155
Wallyman
#157
Did you happen to get a OD measurement of the stock calipers on the 11.75" turbo rotor? I'm running 9" 6UL's and Dial In's, which are pretty big. I'd jump to the willwoods but I've got a pretty good stash of pads for the stock calipers I'd like to use up first. I'm only getting 3 track days out of a set right now so I'm on the ragged edge even with ducting on the stock rotors.
#158
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Here is a quick mockup I did tonight of the 11.5" rotor with caliper under Dial-In 15x7" (gray) and 15x9" (black) wheels. The 15x7" is a little tight with only 1/8" between outer edge of caliper and lip on the wheel. With 1/8" or 1/4" wheel spacer you would be golden and have as much room as the 15x9" wheels. The 15x9" wheel had over 3/8" room, more than enough to make it work.
Sorry, the pictures suck, but should give you an idea.
Sorry, the pictures suck, but should give you an idea.
Last edited by Rallas; 03-12-2018 at 10:03 PM.