A few weeks ago I ran into some pad taper and snot deposits on the 1.8 rotors after 4 track days using Carbotech XP10F/8R. I am on factory power with no ducting running old crappy Azinis tires. I thought I had warped the rotors, tried new ones that were bedded properly (no snot) and had a pedal shake again after 2-3 sessions. The rotors had snot streaks all over them again.

BBK is not in my future at this time. I already have the M-tuned Corrado brackets, but do not have a lot of faith in the Corrado rotors after reading several threads of failures and uneven pad wear due to opposite venting direction of the rotors. Looking around for similar sized 4 x100mm rotors I found the non turbo 07-12 Mini rotors to be the same 11” diameter with better offsets and normal venting (pulling air from hub side) so I could make effective use of ducting air and cheaper than Corrado rotors. I thought I found something new, till I read bbundy’s threads where he was using the Mini rotors with the Dynapro calipers. Other than bbundy’s threads I still couldn’t find much info on using the Mini rotors, especially not with factory calipers. I can’t afford a Willwood caliper upgrade along with new wheels at this time and am looking for a cheaper interim solution.

Has anyone used the 11” mini rotor (11.5” turbo rotor won’t fit under factory 15” wheels) with factory calipers on a Miata?

I am looking for a relatively cheap brake upgrade that is effective for my NA power levels. It seems (my uneducated guess) that I should be able to avoid pad taper with the 11” rotor that is vented from the right side and ducted compared to the factory 1.8 rotors I use now or even Corrado rotors.

Do you guys still get pad taper with the HAWK DTC compounds or is it mostly the Carbotech pads that have the taper issues?

Could I stay on factory 1.8 rotors if I added ducting and swapped to XP12’s or DTC-60’s up front?

 

dude just get real brakes. save your pennies for a proper kit with proper calipers.

how much did you pay for those carbotech pads? do you want to spend that kind of cash over and over and over and over or just buy cheaper pads for Dynalites that last longer?

 

+1 It's not worth it, save your money and buy big boy brakes.

 

Save money get the TSE pit-bull set-up.

 

I would love to, but even if I could afford the TSE awesomeness kit, I cannot fit 11.75" brakes under my wheels and cannot afford new wheels on top of all this. I am also talking NA power levels which makes it hard to justify all that awesomeness.

You guys seemed to run the Corrado's for a while with some level of sucess on cars with 2x the power I am at. I would love to only pay $80 for the Wilwood 7112 DTC-60 pads instead of the $150 Carbotech pads. I want to try the DTC-60's with the factory calipers, but they are still a lot more than the Dynalite pads. Did you guys get pad taper on all brands of pads with the single piston factory caliper?

 

Little big brake kit from FM?

 

Upgrading to a brake kit with a well designed caliper is really the correct answer.

However, if you are going to stay at this power level and not on r-compound tires, our brake duct kit should help your situation tremendously.
Trackspeed Engineering

 

So there is pretty much no way to keep pads from tapering with factory calipers? other than running all seasons and going back to my 200k mile 1.6 engine???

 

I sketched out the Duynalite calipers on the factory 1.8 rotor and the 11" Mini rotor. Looks like the 1.8 rotor/Dynalite caliper will fit under the factory 15" wheel. I will need a 3-5mm spacer to fit the 11" Mini rotor. Anything bigger will not fit these wheels.

I really like the 11" kits out there, but the more than double cost of 11" Wilwood friction disks versus the 11.75" friction disks seem stupid and the Corrado's are less than spectacular. This brings me back to using the 11" Mini rotors that are closer to $35 a peice, even cheaper than what I found for Corrado, pulls air from the right side and does not have the holes in the hub that would weaken the hub area. Sure its not the two piece rotor awesomeness, but should work.

Has anyone tried something similar to this?

I know the 11.75" TSE kit is the be-all end-all brake kit out there, just not what I need. I can make my own brackets and centering rings (have mill/lathe) and would only need lines, calipers, pads and rotors for roughly $460. To upgrade from 1.8 to Corrado's right now would cost me $240 for rotors and new pads, $360 if I didn't have the adapters already. Putting this in pespective I am committed to trying the Dynalites. I didn't think I could run these under a OEM wheel without major spacers. Now I just need to see if I can sell the brand new M-tuned adapters!

 

The secret to avoiding pad taper on a stock Miata brake set-up is to pick a pad based upon what the rotor paint tells you, then go one step higher. Carbotechs supposedly do not appreciate overheating at the firebrand in the slightest.

If you have any pad knock-back whatsoever, you're going to taper pads severely.

Higher friction pads taper significantly less than spongy newb pads. Once you figure out the heat-range you need, pick the pad characteristics you want. I like DTC-60 because of the extremely high friction and like to toe brake. If I sucked at braking or were new to this, I'd run a Carbotech pad because they are the polar opposite in pedal feel. My sister like a soft, spongy pad like the Carbotechs, hates the brakes on my car because very little pressure causes lock-up.

The dynalite/factory rotor kit is not a bad option. "Outlaw" shaped pads are ~$65 per box.

 

FWIW, I find the Mini rotors on Rockauto for under $20 apiece.



And to answer your question that went unanswered, yes, a larger diameter rotor will give you better leverage to stop the car and require somewhat less caliper effort to achieve the same stopping force. This *should* mean less caliper frame deformation to achieve the same stopping results.

I am interested in your results with the Mini rotors just as a curiosity.

EDIT: And, as Hustler mentioned, a more aggressive pad will require less effort and therefore cause less caliper deformation under braking, too.

 

I loved the Carbotechs on the first weekend I used them. They never performed the same again though with pedal shaking and overheating going on. Won't run them again. My brother has been driving my dads 99 with the exact same rotor/pad setup with no issues. He is also running NT-01's which should be harder on the brakes. I wonder how screwed up DTC-60 front with XP8 in the rear will be. Hopefully controlable with a proportioning valve. I still have tons of rear pad left and would hate to throw away a perfectly good set of rear pads just to balance out the front compound.

For giggles I just looked at the 10.6" Sport rotors with the Dynalites and they would have even more room without spacers and only cost $22 a rotor, almost as cheap as 1.8 rotors.

Back of the napkin calcs show only 4.5% greater effective pad area on a 11" rotor vs 10.6" Sport rotor with ~4% less pad force required for the same brake torque. Not much is less to only use 10.6" rotor. Once again I am sure the big brass balled 300 whp group needs every % of braking that they can get, but this looks like it will take care of my needs.

For $22 rotors and $65-80 pads, it will be the cheapest consumables for a trackable setup I have been able to find yet. I can't even buy a set of Carbotech pads alone for that kind of money. This setup should still work with my dream/goal of 180whp MSM turbo setup (one day).

 

sixshooter, thats the slightly smaller 276mm ones you have in the pic. I didn't look at rockauto before, looks like even the 280mm can be had for around $20, that is half of what I was looking at. Thanks.

You mentioned the better "leverage" or brake torque with the larger rotors, but based on my calcs we are only looking at 5-8% at most (8% for 11" compared to 1.8). Not as much as I would have thought.

 

I may not be near as experienced as you hustler, but I have never had issues with my carbotech's to date. I love the feel of them, they have lasted 4 track days on stock brakes, stock power. the only time I had an issue with them is when I bled the brakes and got a bubble in the line. Once that was taken care of, no issues here.

 

Was that on CMP? I was fine on my first weekend out there, but on my second weekend I kept overheating the brakes coming into 11 and they got hot. What tires are you running?

 

3 weekends at CMP, one at RA, Potenza re-11

I was consistently 2:01 on my shitty old suspension setup, Im not sure what your pace was, but if it was higher, that may be why I havent had an issue with them yet.

 

Collin and Relte going to RA Nov 30?

 

Na, gotta work night shift that weekend.

 

Pending moneys.

 

Stage 1 Miata Brake upgrade kit 90-05

Something like this maybe?