Intake Manifold Studs
#43
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Im using a 94-97 manifold. heavily modified and made to fit a 99 head its a few pounds lighter than stock and might be 8 or 9 pounds lighter than a Vics. No EGR features no bracing no casting flash and with extra cast material and webs etc ground out removed and smoothed over. And no intake manifold issues with 8600 rpm rev limit.
#45
Cpt. Slow
![](/mt2011/images_td/ranks/supporter1.gif)
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,360
Total Cats: 1,184
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
We had this issue on Laz, only when I used my shitty torque wrench and over torqued all of them to probably 30ft/lbs instead of 14-19.
We replaced all of them with new OEM studs, and used locktite on both sides. We'll try to report back at the end of the season with results.
Something no one's discussed, but the stock brace is molded to give easier access to the oil filter. Add in a oil/water cooler, oil cooler sandwich plate, and/or sensor plate, and/or an oversized filter, and there's no way it'll clear.
We replaced all of them with new OEM studs, and used locktite on both sides. We'll try to report back at the end of the season with results.
Something no one's discussed, but the stock brace is molded to give easier access to the oil filter. Add in a oil/water cooler, oil cooler sandwich plate, and/or sensor plate, and/or an oversized filter, and there's no way it'll clear.
#46
Former Vendor
![](/mt2011/images_td/ranks/supporter1.gif)
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Posts: 15,442
Total Cats: 2,103
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I've snapped a couple here or there, but it never seemed to be a chronic problem. 30lb of supercharger would probably change that. Eric, I'm surprised you haven't considered a brace - trying to keep the weight off?
#47
Senior Member
![](/mt2011/images_td/ranks/supporter1.gif)
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Chattanooga, Tn
Posts: 1,234
Total Cats: 283
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I made a brace for the manifold. I think my issues went as follows. Blower manifold flange was too think to use stock length studs. I (like an idiot) went to the local hardware store and found the proper length "automotive studs" which I later found out to be class 5 hardware. So this off season rather than only half fixing the problem, I did what I do and went overboard with the ARP hardware. Like all ARP stuff I was impressed with the quality and would recommend those studs to anyone. (but they are a bit spendy)
#52
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I just found the 3 studs surrounding the #1 cylinder broken. They all broke within the nut. two of them still had the nut on by a thread, but the end of the stud was gone.
I was not running a brace. I did have a fabricated brace on it, but the lower attachment point had failed, so I just took it off. looks like I need to improve the lower mount.
I was not running a brace. I did have a fabricated brace on it, but the lower attachment point had failed, so I just took it off. looks like I need to improve the lower mount.
#53
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Those of you breaking intake manifold studs, is 8000+rpm the common denominator? If so, are you running an aftermarket balancer? How about fully balanced rotating assembly? (Wondering if the SuperMiata balancer and the like would reduce high rpm vibration enough to combat vibration related failures?)