I need some oil cooler assurances
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: STL
Posts: 524
Total Cats: 24
I need some oil cooler assurances
I need some assurances this is a solid plan, buying all this stuff twice gets real expensive. It's time to upgrade my FM oil cooler and stop trying to fix it with aids. My plan is to pick up -10an lines and a 25 row cooler mounted between the IC and radiator. I will reuse the Mocal sandwich plate (with thermostat)
Shiny parts to buy:
Setrab 25 row Series 6 oil cooler
Mocal 1/2" BSP x -10an fittings (2)
-10an hose (8-10')
-10an straight fittings (2)
-10an 90* fittings (2)
Radiator + oil cooler + IC will be ducted and sealed. Top half of the radiator will be ducted and see only fresh air. My goal is something like this.
I know the RX7 cooler is preferred but I don't see any way of fitting it without modifying the front end in ways that make it less than suitable for street use.
I've seen a few posts suggesting that installing a big, quality, oil cooler between the IC and radiator will be sufficient. It needs to support 225whp today and my eventual goal of 275-300whp.
What about braided stainless vs socketless hose? Socketless has a larger ID and is cheaper but the internets suggest is more difficult to install fittings into. Most of you are running stainless, is that because of an easier installation? Something else? Savington runs socketless so I'm not too worried about it falling apart as long as I do it correctly.
Another option I considered is running a horizontal 19 row cooler which exhaust out through the hood latch hole. Much like hustler's install but with the NB I would have a smaller "exhaust port" and most of the cooler wouldn't see much if any air. With the added ducting complexity of this solution and less airflow it seems like a not so good idea.
Shiny parts to buy:
Setrab 25 row Series 6 oil cooler
Mocal 1/2" BSP x -10an fittings (2)
-10an hose (8-10')
-10an straight fittings (2)
-10an 90* fittings (2)
Radiator + oil cooler + IC will be ducted and sealed. Top half of the radiator will be ducted and see only fresh air. My goal is something like this.
I know the RX7 cooler is preferred but I don't see any way of fitting it without modifying the front end in ways that make it less than suitable for street use.
I've seen a few posts suggesting that installing a big, quality, oil cooler between the IC and radiator will be sufficient. It needs to support 225whp today and my eventual goal of 275-300whp.
What about braided stainless vs socketless hose? Socketless has a larger ID and is cheaper but the internets suggest is more difficult to install fittings into. Most of you are running stainless, is that because of an easier installation? Something else? Savington runs socketless so I'm not too worried about it falling apart as long as I do it correctly.
Another option I considered is running a horizontal 19 row cooler which exhaust out through the hood latch hole. Much like hustler's install but with the NB I would have a smaller "exhaust port" and most of the cooler wouldn't see much if any air. With the added ducting complexity of this solution and less airflow it seems like a not so good idea.
#2
Former Vendor
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Posts: 15,442
Total Cats: 2,104
I used to run socketless. If you don't assemble it perfectly, it will come apart, and the resulting oil pressure loss is an engine killer. I like stainless for oil.
I prefer Setrab's M22 90* fittings - they eliminate an adapter at the oil cooler.
I have the line, 90* -10AN and M22 fittings, and a 25-row core in stock.
I prefer Setrab's M22 90* fittings - they eliminate an adapter at the oil cooler.
I have the line, 90* -10AN and M22 fittings, and a 25-row core in stock.
#4
I wouldnt get too caught up on 300°F though, you're going to find that a lot of braided stainless lines are also only rated to 300°F, all setrab's hoses are.
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: STL
Posts: 524
Total Cats: 24
Well since it's pretty rare I actually do things correctly, stainless it is. Even still, it's not worth the chance. Sending you a pm. You really like taking my money, don't you.
Aeroquip's socketless and stainless are both rated to 300*f. And yes, I agree there's not much room wiggle room there. You can get to 450*f with the Teflon lined hose, if you're OK with -8n. I'm fairly certain the -8 hose on the FM kit is why I see 8-10psi hot oil pressure at idle.
Aeroquip's socketless and stainless are both rated to 300*f. And yes, I agree there's not much room wiggle room there. You can get to 450*f with the Teflon lined hose, if you're OK with -8n. I'm fairly certain the -8 hose on the FM kit is why I see 8-10psi hot oil pressure at idle.
#6
Well since it's pretty rare I actually do things correctly, stainless it is. Even still, it's not worth the chance. Sending you a pm. You really like taking my money, don't you.
Aeroquip's socketless and stainless are both rated to 300*f. And yes, I agree there's not much room wiggle room there. You can get to 450*f with the Teflon lined hose, if you're OK with -8n. I'm fairly certain the -8 hose on the FM kit is why I see 8-10psi hot oil pressure at idle.
Aeroquip's socketless and stainless are both rated to 300*f. And yes, I agree there's not much room wiggle room there. You can get to 450*f with the Teflon lined hose, if you're OK with -8n. I'm fairly certain the -8 hose on the FM kit is why I see 8-10psi hot oil pressure at idle.
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: STL
Posts: 524
Total Cats: 24
I'm not too worried about the 300* limitation. Just about everyone on this forum and the internet all use 300* rated lines for oil. If it works for them, it should work for me.
Thought about going the local hydraulic shop route, or BAT Inc, but this somehow seems easier. Thanks for all the suggestions though. I was going to order it all from Racer Parts Wholesale but now Andrew gets my money.
Thought about going the local hydraulic shop route, or BAT Inc, but this somehow seems easier. Thanks for all the suggestions though. I was going to order it all from Racer Parts Wholesale but now Andrew gets my money.
#10
British American Transfer
I am using a slightly different version similar to the FC333. they have both the "elastomer" tube and ptfe tube type hoses.
They also have "kits" you can find on their main site, may get you 20-30 bucks cheaper than normal.
I am using a slightly different version similar to the FC333. they have both the "elastomer" tube and ptfe tube type hoses.
They also have "kits" you can find on their main site, may get you 20-30 bucks cheaper than normal.
#11
I worry about the 250/300F limits on socketless hose not because I'm expecting a hose to split but because you are relying on the strength of the hose to keep the joint together. With standard AN threaded ends or crimped ends, it doesn't matter as much when the hose starts getting soft because it is still being held mechanically.
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: STL
Posts: 524
Total Cats: 24
That's a really good point about exceeding the rated temperature on socketless hose with no mechanical retainer. I went with the stainless braided from TSE. Andrew sure makes it easy to buy stuff from, competitive prices and great service. Now if only I could convince him to move closer so shipping is quicker. He even sells an M22-AN 90* fitting for one less potential leak spot coming off the cooler.
JKav posted in my thread. I feel honored.
JKav posted in my thread. I feel honored.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
stoves
Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain
5
04-21-2016 03:00 PM
JesseTheNoob
DIY Turbo Discussion
15
09-30-2015 02:44 PM