I need new track pads. what should I get?
#42
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im with you on that one... they are supposedly a reputable company, but i have had 3 pads break off the back plate.... 2 on the track, and one street driving. maybe i just brake hard as ****... lol
Last edited by supercooper; 04-21-2013 at 09:17 AM. Reason: because i realy do know how to spell, i promise..
#43
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On the other hand I am willing to try the DTC 60 the next time around. Based on my current wear and having another set of front XR2's on hand that wont happen till at least next year.
#44
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just ordered a set of the dtc 60, they are pretty inexpensive so why not try them. Ive been pleased with hawk race pads on other track cars but I always changed the pads at the track and I'm trying to not do that for now, since I'm only running NT01 tires.
the carbotech and the colbalts are not that expensive, just way more expensive than the hawk. you want expensive pads go check out the padgids, around 300 bucks.
thanks for all the helpful info, I post up my opinions in a few weeks.
the carbotech and the colbalts are not that expensive, just way more expensive than the hawk. you want expensive pads go check out the padgids, around 300 bucks.
thanks for all the helpful info, I post up my opinions in a few weeks.
#48
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So from my rough numbers the Cobalt setup I just bought runs about $100 more total than the equivalent DTC-60's all around. This is on 1.8 Non-Sport brakes. Going to try out the DTC's on the next round and compare all three discussed, have ran Carbotech's previoius.
Also interested to see how the life of the pad compares between the DTC/XR/XP.
Also interested to see how the life of the pad compares between the DTC/XR/XP.
#54
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I was also getting pad taper on the stock front calipers. I also used Carbotech XP10s. It is my understanding that pad taper is common when you abuse the stock calipers regardless of which pads are used.
#55
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I would imagine that pad taper, which is due to caliper flex, would be less on a high torque pad that required less pedal effort. Low torque pads would require significantly more pressure to slow the car and would be more likely to flex the caliper.
#58
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![](https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/race-prep-75/74989-i-need-new-track-pads-what-should-i-get-d548e8f7-2652-40b8-a144-a173041d3db9-4256-00000833cdff1152_zps8ea08c8a.jpg?dateline=1367097136)
Factory NA8 calipers, Centric rotors, Carbotech AX6 pads, TSE ducting, RBF600 fluid.
I've done a number of "fast autocross / mini road course" events and four days at Roebling on these pads and rotors. I noticed some heat spots on the rotors after the most recent track day and decided to pull the pads out to measure. Zero cracks in the rotors, just the spotting.
Pad thickness (not including the 5mm backing) for the left front corner
<-- Front of car
Code:
Inner pad 6.0mm 6.0mm 6.0mm 6.0mm
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/race-prep-75/74990-i-need-new-track-pads-what-should-i-get-2013-04-27leftfrontouterbrakepadax6_zps3ce8c97e.jpeg?dateline=1367097136)
That leads me to the question of whether to buy some DTC-60s and new rotors or to just step up to something like the 949 Wilwood 11" kit (or Relte's Mini / Wilwood setup)?
TSE Big Boy Pants Brake kit is not an option.
![Deal With It](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/dealwithit[1].gif)