How are you guys washing your cars (no windows)
#2
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,360
Total Cats: 1,184
Last time I undid 8 bolts and took the seats out, and then my interior had nothing I didn't mind getting wet.
Buy these:
Miata Cage Miata Window Clips - SafeRacer
The windows sit in there just like they were stock, and lift out in seconds.
Alternatively, you could leave the middle runner in place, so you can slide them into the door for street time (if your cage allows), raise them for washing/bad weather, and still lift them straight out for racing.
Buy these:
Miata Cage Miata Window Clips - SafeRacer
The windows sit in there just like they were stock, and lift out in seconds.
Alternatively, you could leave the middle runner in place, so you can slide them into the door for street time (if your cage allows), raise them for washing/bad weather, and still lift them straight out for racing.
I decided to keep my factory window for now, and come up with a way for it to go up and down.
I started out with the middle window tract. The window is attached to a slider that has two rollers on it. This prevents the window from flopping from side to side with only one tract.
This is what it looks like with all the cables removed.
This is what it looks like after I modified it to reduce wieght.
After I installed it to the car in the window down position.
The wiper in the inner door panel along with the rubber seal in the front window tract will hold the window in position. I plan to put a mini clamp or pin in the drilled tract to prevent it from slamming down when I hit a bump in the road.
Finally, a pic with the window up and door closed. I still have to do some additional trimming. You can still see a portion of the cut inner door at the rear of the upper door panel. I still have a few other minor adjustments to make. Once I get all the bugs worked out, I will start on the driver door and have them painted.
I started out with the middle window tract. The window is attached to a slider that has two rollers on it. This prevents the window from flopping from side to side with only one tract.
This is what it looks like with all the cables removed.
This is what it looks like after I modified it to reduce wieght.
After I installed it to the car in the window down position.
The wiper in the inner door panel along with the rubber seal in the front window tract will hold the window in position. I plan to put a mini clamp or pin in the drilled tract to prevent it from slamming down when I hit a bump in the road.
Finally, a pic with the window up and door closed. I still have to do some additional trimming. You can still see a portion of the cut inner door at the rear of the upper door panel. I still have a few other minor adjustments to make. Once I get all the bugs worked out, I will start on the driver door and have them painted.
#5
2 Props,3 Dildos,& 1 Cat
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Fake Virginia
Posts: 19,338
Total Cats: 573
rinseless wash would be an obvious solution here.
Need:
sponge or microfiber wash mitt
several good quality towels (microfiber waffle weave)
optimum no rinse (or equivalent)
two buckets
grit guards to keep grit off your wash mitt
<10 gallons of water
BAM
I use this method and it is legit. super fast and easy and good on anything but caked mud.
Need:
sponge or microfiber wash mitt
several good quality towels (microfiber waffle weave)
optimum no rinse (or equivalent)
two buckets
grit guards to keep grit off your wash mitt
<10 gallons of water
BAM
I use this method and it is legit. super fast and easy and good on anything but caked mud.
#9
Buy these:
Miata Cage Miata Window Clips - SafeRacer
The windows sit in there just like they were stock, and lift out in seconds.
Miata Cage Miata Window Clips - SafeRacer
The windows sit in there just like they were stock, and lift out in seconds.
#10
I don't have a race car, but I can definitely vouch for optimum no rinse. If really dirty, spray it off first. Then put 3 gallons of water and the proper amount of ONR in a bucket, soak 10-12 microfiber towels in it. Spray quik-wax on a panel, then use a microfiber towel per panel and put it aside after its done that one panel. Dry afterwards with other microfibers. Very fast and easy.
#12
2 Props,3 Dildos,& 1 Cat
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Fake Virginia
Posts: 19,338
Total Cats: 573
I don't have a race car, but I can definitely vouch for optimum no rinse. If really dirty, spray it off first. Then put 3 gallons of water and the proper amount of ONR in a bucket, soak 10-12 microfiber towels in it. Spray quik-wax on a panel, then use a microfiber towel per panel and put it aside after its done that one panel. Dry afterwards with other microfibers. Very fast and easy.
#17
2 Props,3 Dildos,& 1 Cat
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Fake Virginia
Posts: 19,338
Total Cats: 573
I dont know whats its called exactly. Just some sort of product that loosens the dirt up a bit. I suppose you could skip that and just use the microfibers if it has already been rinsed off. In fact Ill do that next time and save a bit of effort and money. Thanks for the thought!
#18
There are many race cars that have all the seamsealer and undercoating removed. There always seems to be exposed bare metal in a race car because of the lack of heavy sealants. I pay special attention to areas that have metal sandwiched together. I try to avoid a direct hit with the water hose in these areas. If it needs to be washed, I use an air hose to blast as much water out of the seams.
I have been spraying the seam areas with WD-40 to help keep moisture at bay before and after a cleaning. I have a product that is designed to be sprayed in the engine compartment of personal watercraft. It is like a heavier version of WD-40 that I may try in areas with sandwiched metal. I have not tried it yet on the car. It maybe heavy enough that it collects dirt.