Home made splitter/air dam/ducting
#1
Home made splitter/air dam/ducting
Threw this together last week. Mostly home depot parts, cost around $100 total.
I used 1/2" Birch plywood for the splitter, which is overkill. 5/16", 3/8", or Alumalite would be better... but I did a nose slide across the inside curb of a turn last weekend and it held up just fine. My hardware could use improving as well. Its just stuff I dug up at home depot, which means its overweight and poorly suited to the application, but it works for now.
The spoiler is mounted with two turnbuckles in front, one turnbuckle on each side (in front of each wheel, behind the air dam), and two bolts to the subframe in the rear. It extends back to the centerline of the front wheels (as far as legal) where it meets the subframe, creating as smooth of an undertray as possible.
The radiator ducting is aluminum flashing (very thin) held together with pop rivets and attached the the air dam with aluminum angle iron. It's sealed around the edges and attached the the radiator with aluminum duct tape, which wasn't strong enough. I think I'm going to make a frame around the radiator with aluminum angle iron, rivet the flashing to the frame, and seal the frame against the radiator with weather stripping. That will have the added benefit of making the ducting and/or radiator removable without re-doing a tape job every time. Other than the radiator seal I'm very happy with the flashing. I doubt you could find a lighter solution, and its pretty strong once Its all riveted together.
I used 1/4" ABS for the air dam. Its light, easy to work with, and stronger than the bumper it replaced.
I used 1/2" Birch plywood for the splitter, which is overkill. 5/16", 3/8", or Alumalite would be better... but I did a nose slide across the inside curb of a turn last weekend and it held up just fine. My hardware could use improving as well. Its just stuff I dug up at home depot, which means its overweight and poorly suited to the application, but it works for now.
The spoiler is mounted with two turnbuckles in front, one turnbuckle on each side (in front of each wheel, behind the air dam), and two bolts to the subframe in the rear. It extends back to the centerline of the front wheels (as far as legal) where it meets the subframe, creating as smooth of an undertray as possible.
The radiator ducting is aluminum flashing (very thin) held together with pop rivets and attached the the air dam with aluminum angle iron. It's sealed around the edges and attached the the radiator with aluminum duct tape, which wasn't strong enough. I think I'm going to make a frame around the radiator with aluminum angle iron, rivet the flashing to the frame, and seal the frame against the radiator with weather stripping. That will have the added benefit of making the ducting and/or radiator removable without re-doing a tape job every time. Other than the radiator seal I'm very happy with the flashing. I doubt you could find a lighter solution, and its pretty strong once Its all riveted together.
I used 1/4" ABS for the air dam. Its light, easy to work with, and stronger than the bumper it replaced.
#11
I cut a similar hole in the hood of my Civic. My oil and water temps went up, and I had no discernible "by the touch" change in underhood temps (didn't bother to measure as it wasn't what I was going for). My assumption is that I disturbed airflow through the radiator/oil cooler by creating a high pressure area right there behind the radiator. +1 for the suggestion of altering that a bit.
#14
Excellent work, I used thin aluminum sheets (not flashing) from home depot on my first radiator duct and it worked great, just took forever to get it shaped and a perfect seal.
This time I'm trying roofing tarp for a quicker install, it's semi-flexible, mostly smooth and heat-resistant. I blocked off the sides of the radiator in about 1/10th the time as using aluminum, even though I don't think it's quite as good a seal. But I just want to get it "close enough" to test and see if I need a bigger radiator anyway, which will probably require me to redo it.
My last splitter from Home depot was posterboard on top epoxied to a layer of thin aluminum on the bottom. Cost a little more than yours but it reminds me of a surfboard, light and stiff. Probably cost about $60 including paint and some fasteners. Worked great on the track, I took it off and intend to use it on my new project. My air dam sucked though, yours is infinitely better.
This time I'm trying roofing tarp for a quicker install, it's semi-flexible, mostly smooth and heat-resistant. I blocked off the sides of the radiator in about 1/10th the time as using aluminum, even though I don't think it's quite as good a seal. But I just want to get it "close enough" to test and see if I need a bigger radiator anyway, which will probably require me to redo it.
My last splitter from Home depot was posterboard on top epoxied to a layer of thin aluminum on the bottom. Cost a little more than yours but it reminds me of a surfboard, light and stiff. Probably cost about $60 including paint and some fasteners. Worked great on the track, I took it off and intend to use it on my new project. My air dam sucked though, yours is infinitely better.
#17
Thanks guys. The air damn material was purchased at a local sign shop.
I'll be pulling the splitter off to install a new radiator sometime this week, I'll try to snap some more pics when I do.
It sits about 3.5" off the ground. It can get on and off a trailer with some 2x8's to help, but its a pita. I plan to replace the bolts with cotter pins over the winter to make it easily removable.
Larimer & stinkycheese: The hood is temporary. It will be replaced with a proper CF extractor hood (autokonexion?) over the winter.
sam: The flashing was easy in this case because I'm attaching a square hole to a square radiator, so there wasn't any bending or forming required. It just took a few hours with some tin snips, a drill and a rivet gun to make the ducting.
shuiend: if you have someone there who is good at tuning MegaSquirt, I'll be there in an instant!
I'll be pulling the splitter off to install a new radiator sometime this week, I'll try to snap some more pics when I do.
It sits about 3.5" off the ground. It can get on and off a trailer with some 2x8's to help, but its a pita. I plan to replace the bolts with cotter pins over the winter to make it easily removable.
Larimer & stinkycheese: The hood is temporary. It will be replaced with a proper CF extractor hood (autokonexion?) over the winter.
sam: The flashing was easy in this case because I'm attaching a square hole to a square radiator, so there wasn't any bending or forming required. It just took a few hours with some tin snips, a drill and a rivet gun to make the ducting.
shuiend: if you have someone there who is good at tuning MegaSquirt, I'll be there in an instant!