Cutting doors
#27
I don't have many shots of the interior as requested as it being rehashed for its 4th makeover. It is still a 15 ft. car, any closer and it still looks pretty rough. You know the drill.
One of the door and window clip in question -
Dash, crash pad, and bolsters are covered in "feaux" Alcantara.
***Edit*** I guess it is time to start a build thread.
One of the door and window clip in question -
Dash, crash pad, and bolsters are covered in "feaux" Alcantara.
***Edit*** I guess it is time to start a build thread.
#32
I rode in a NB at midohio. It was fully caged and as far as I know was running all spec miata parts. He had those windows with the hooks. He told me though that it was only for trailering not for driving because the windows would break on the metal hooks from bumps and things. Anybody try a lexan version at all? something that is the same shape/mold as a stock window and then rivet it to the door or something? The other thing I worry about with a full cage in a street car besides the added attention is the halo bars hitting my melon. Helmets only? I dont think a ton of padding would help much less remove room from my 6'1" frame.
#33
/\ Then let's hope he doesn't doesn't hit any bumps when its on the trailer. The compression fit that is created does not allow the window to freely move when the door is closed. I've been driving with this setup for nearly two years and have yet to have a problem. (Knocks on wood)
Clear tubing from the hardware store slipped over the "L" solves that.
Thought about using Lexan when I did the rear HT window, but there is a convex curve that needs to be there to put compression for when the door is closed. The windows are not flat. A piece of round rod used as a frame bent to shape and tabs for rivets is the solution there. Too much work for what it really is at that point. I'm not drag racing here, and windows are only for inclement weather for my purpose.
Full cage = race and Roll bar w/ door bars = street. Take your pick... I've since uninstalled the cage and installed the latter for street purposes. Yes, full cage for street is not the best of ideas.
Clear tubing from the hardware store slipped over the "L" solves that.
Thought about using Lexan when I did the rear HT window, but there is a convex curve that needs to be there to put compression for when the door is closed. The windows are not flat. A piece of round rod used as a frame bent to shape and tabs for rivets is the solution there. Too much work for what it really is at that point. I'm not drag racing here, and windows are only for inclement weather for my purpose.
Full cage = race and Roll bar w/ door bars = street. Take your pick... I've since uninstalled the cage and installed the latter for street purposes. Yes, full cage for street is not the best of ideas.
#35
Here is what I did, if I had my car I would take a picture of how the window is held in. But its getting the cage installed. No brackets holding mine up. I did it a little different. But the same concept, the lift out and can be put back in in a few seconds. When the door is closed its nice and solid against the rubber seals on the hard top. The window is not in for this picture but it is all I have, tomorrow I take my seat down for mounting so I will snap some more pics.
-Ryan
-Ryan
#40
For what it is worth; I took a stock window and screwed a sheet of .060 plastic to the bottom and dropped it in so the plastic bowed to the outside skin of the door and rested on the bottom. Adjusted the final height by trimming the bottom of the plastic sheet. Pull out the whole thing when you get to the track. Sorry, no pics, car was sold.