Crusher was built by our resident ME, John Wing (Satisaii) and planned by yours truly. John and I brainstorm a few times a week on the car, solving problems and figuring out how to implement my hare-brained ideas.

 

I tried a set of 4-piston calipers in the front with 1.75" pistons with the stock master cylinder. Way too much pedal travel, and that was with the stock rear calipers still in place. For pistons that large the master piston dia has to be larger to displace enough fluid. So the hydraulic advantage goes away, and a booster is needed again.

 

I've got a 1-1/8" MC that I just haven't gotten around to hooking up, yet. The math says that I'll reduce my pedal travel by a meaningful amount over the Wilwood 1" MC. I'm hoping that it brings the boost ratio back in line to make the brakes less sensitive, too. Won't get around to putting it in and trying it until Jan/Feb, though.

Cheers,

Dean

 

Wilwood makes both the Dynapro and Dynalite in a 1.62" piston. I wonder if that might be a better match with the OEM booster when paired with big rotors. A friend has a V8R kit on a very light NA and his pedal is too sensitive.

To better take advantage of the special points config were running at T25, we have swapped the 2 piece Sport Brake front system for an 11" Wilwood Dynalite (1.38") front with our 2 piece directional rotors. That will give us faster pad swaps and longer pad life.

 

Has anyone found a good master/booster combination for the V8R kit?

 

Enough people concerned that it's probably time to start a new thread so others with the same questions can find it.

 

There is some discussion in the miata.net 'engine conversions' subforum if you go look there. IIRC 'perryrace' and others who are racing V8s with the V8R BBK have discussed it at length in several threads.

 

I very much look forward to seeing everything that is done to the motor once the race is over. That is if we are allowed to find out. From what little info I have gained, it sounds like a beast. I am also very curious to see what power it makes if/when you finally do a completely unrestricted run on the motor.

 

Brief look at the ESS fire suppression system



Brief look at the racepak system in the car. I forgot to mention in the video that the Racepak reads all the data from the MS3 ECU via a Racepak interface module.

 

Very cool. Any more details on the fuel level sensor? How does it work while driving? What is the accuracy at various levels of fuel in the tank?

 

I believe the term is "You betcha"

 

What about the water pressure sensor? I had one but it would display that I have 25-30psi all the time - even with the engine off for several days, so I took it off. I had mine on the hose right after the thermostat.

 

Sounds like it was broken.

 

I doubt it - it was one of the solid state variety and is working happily for my oil pressure right now. I was thinking that maybe you don't a pressure sensor for this application, but rather, a flow sensor instead.

 

http://949racing.com/Racepak-liquid-...-sensor-2.aspx

 

Maybe I'm asking too many questions, but do you actually see a pressure drop with the engine off?

 

Of course

 

I didn't know you guys where such huge wrestling fans. I'm sure he would be honored. This was the first thing tghat came up after your Smartwire video was over.




On a serious note, where can I find out some more on the fuel level sensor. Did you simply attach this to the oem assembly and it sits in the tank? It sounds interesting. I may be using the IQ3 on a kit car build and that is one of the things I am trying to figure out.

I didn't even think of the non foam fire system going out the windows, I may redo the system in my spec car now.

 

I was going to ask if you had your analog sensors tied into the MS3 and then the racepak read off that. But this answers that.

 

Think about water/coolant behavior related to temperature and pressure. Direct correlation, even negating the activity of the water pump. Your gauge must have been busted.