View Poll Results: I hate re-route
Option 1
21
72.41%
Option 2
8
27.59%
Voters: 29. You may not vote on this poll
Coolant mother f**king reroute
#81
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,360
Total Cats: 1,184
You dont really want that, it'll never heat up if the car ever sees street time.
All you need is a 90* bend with ~12" off one end. I have mind split as you can see for the Hester return and coolant sensor.
All you need is a 90* bend with ~12" off one end. I have mind split as you can see for the Hester return and coolant sensor.
#83
I understand the arguments about the heater core. This is for a dedicated track car that won't run on the street at all - trailered to track events. I want the cooling benefits of 100% of the coolant going through the radiator every pass but want to keep the option of blowing hot air on the windshield when it rains. In the past the heater has also served as emergency cooling but I hope that won't be necessary with the other preparations being taken.
#87
In the stock configuration, hot water from the heater core mixes with the cool water from the lower radiator hose. It would seem there are some improvements to be had on the total thermal capacity of the system if the water leaving the heater core passed through the radiator. I appreciate this would cause a street car to warm up very slowly since a bunch of coolant would be bypassing the thermostat but for a track car, it should help it stay cooler. It would not behave much differently than a gutted thermostat but would cool more overall. My plan would be to leave a thermostat in place to help stabilize the temperatures from being too cold. This would all be on the traditional BEGI reroute with the proper head gasket, etc.
#90
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,360
Total Cats: 1,184
The "easiest" is currently:
1. water neck
a. junk yard cheap
b. BEGI for a little more
c. cut down the coolant sensor and weld a cap over the stock 1.6 unit.
2. Spacer
a. build your own
b. BEGI for $90
c. M-tuned housing $180
3. hose
a. GM hose for $20
b. build your own with a bit of straight pipe and a couple bends $???
4. block off plate
a. BEGI $25
b. freezer plug $1
c. fab your own cover $free
the EASIEST is a $120 order from BEGI of a spacer and water neck, and $25 order at NAPA of the GM hose and freeze plug.
After that, you need to decide where the heater core return goes. If you're only racing, put it in the upper radiator hose. If it's still street driven, put it in the lower radiator hose. If you're deleting the heater core, you need make sure there's some feed to the water pump until the thermostat opens.
#92
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,360
Total Cats: 1,184
You're welcome. There's of course some fudge factor, as technically the EASIEST easy method is shelling out $330 to FM or another vendor for m-tuned's reroute, although this thread was a little more oriented towards the DIY method. It's a push in the right direction though.
#93
As you can read over in my build thread, my car has just become a track only car. What are the benefits of removing the heater core? Is it just weight? Does leaving the heater core affect cooling efficiency? The car came with a PWR radiator when I bought it. Maybe removing the heater core is something I can do down the line when I put in a cage and have the dash out anyway.
I think I'm gonna get the Begi spacer, waterneck and cap, a 190° Stant thermostat, and the GM hose, keep the heater core and call it a reroute. Am I missing something?
I think I'm gonna get the Begi spacer, waterneck and cap, a 190° Stant thermostat, and the GM hose, keep the heater core and call it a reroute. Am I missing something?
#94
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,360
Total Cats: 1,184
see above
Technically yes, but if you're relying on the heater core to keep your engine cool you have bigger problems. Such as not having a reroute, a radiator that's too small, or inefficent or no ducting. The later being the most important.
I have limited knowledge and therefore input about deleting the heater core, there's no way I'd ever take it out in the PNW, so I haven't given it much thought. Why the 190* thermostat? Also, see Joe Perez's video about Stant thermostats, I believe they've proven to be less than ideal.
There's some other good info in that thread about thermostats. Technically a hotter unit won't effect the cooling capacity of your motor, as even the best are above 190* at race conditions, but I don't see why you're going 10* hotter with a thermostat when you're also considering deleting the heater core.
#95
Sorry I was unclear on the "water neck and cap" I meant the begi water neck and the begi block off plate.
I'm not going to delete the heater core right now. I have a supercharger so the heat around the heater core lines isn't as bad as with a turbo. I think.
On the 190° thermostat, I thought I read that was the one to get somewhere in one of these threads, but I'm not beyond being confused. Thanks for all the info. I'd like to get this all sorted before the motor goes back in. Looks like a royal, frustrating pain in the knuckles to do it with the motor in.
I'm not going to delete the heater core right now. I have a supercharger so the heat around the heater core lines isn't as bad as with a turbo. I think.
On the 190° thermostat, I thought I read that was the one to get somewhere in one of these threads, but I'm not beyond being confused. Thanks for all the info. I'd like to get this all sorted before the motor goes back in. Looks like a royal, frustrating pain in the knuckles to do it with the motor in.
#97
Hi,
I'm doing now the reroute for my eunos with g-reddy (1.6)
So in the middle is the piece from the back-end of the engine. I suppose that is the temperature sensor for the ecu.
On the left is the temperature sensor for my own temp -gauge.
What is the sensor on the right -side piece? The one with the black hat.
I'm doing now the reroute for my eunos with g-reddy (1.6)
So in the middle is the piece from the back-end of the engine. I suppose that is the temperature sensor for the ecu.
On the left is the temperature sensor for my own temp -gauge.
What is the sensor on the right -side piece? The one with the black hat.
#100
Tour de Franzia
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
Ok. So if i would use the piece in the middle to block the stock thermostat housing in the front of the engine, can i put the sensor that runs radiator fans in there? Or can i put the sensor for the ecu in that place? Or does that give the right temperatures from the engine?