car shaking on track under hard cornering. halp me lrn how 2 bleed breaks!
#1
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**********title was changed by immature moderator*********** im not looking for any bleeding advice.
I just got back from a 3 day track event at gingerman raceway and experienced a seriously bad shaking problem under hard, fast cornering (4th gear, sometimes 3rd) - and before you say engine mounts or diff mounts, I have solid engine mounts (70 durometer) and new ES poly bushings in my torsen diff.
The shaking would get violent enough to the point where I had to let off, and I could see my shifter shaking back and forth as if it was wheel hopping.
Does anyone have any ideas as to what it could be? I have upgraded front and rear sway bars, konig helix's on r888's, and HKS hipermax coilovers <-- they are probably around 5-6 years old though
I just got back from a 3 day track event at gingerman raceway and experienced a seriously bad shaking problem under hard, fast cornering (4th gear, sometimes 3rd) - and before you say engine mounts or diff mounts, I have solid engine mounts (70 durometer) and new ES poly bushings in my torsen diff.
The shaking would get violent enough to the point where I had to let off, and I could see my shifter shaking back and forth as if it was wheel hopping.
Does anyone have any ideas as to what it could be? I have upgraded front and rear sway bars, konig helix's on r888's, and HKS hipermax coilovers <-- they are probably around 5-6 years old though
Last edited by Darbymx5; 06-13-2017 at 09:07 AM.
#5
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It only does it under accelerating around or out of a fast corner - if I stay on the power it gets worse, if I let off it calms it down a lot but doesn't go away entirely until im out of the corner
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We can probably eliminate anything drivetrain-related by answering this question: Does it stop completely if you hit the clutch?
My first guess would be suspension bushings. If they're old and of unknown condition, you should be replacing them anyway. You may want to wait for a reply from somebody more experienced first though.
There's a guy in NJ who offers a trade-in service for control arms where he sends you control arms with pressed in Poly bushings and you send him your old ones. I can PM you his email if interested.
My first guess would be suspension bushings. If they're old and of unknown condition, you should be replacing them anyway. You may want to wait for a reply from somebody more experienced first though.
There's a guy in NJ who offers a trade-in service for control arms where he sends you control arms with pressed in Poly bushings and you send him your old ones. I can PM you his email if interested.
#7
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flat spots?
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#11
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I have wilwoods. Have actually flat spotted a set of tires before.
Caliper flex does not always mean lack of braking ability. It affects pedal feel more than anything. If you can't lock up you have other issues.
I read all about your issues on some facebook thread. And after multiple people explained to you that wilwoods work fine you still go around bashing them because of issues you have.
Stop spreading bullshit. They may not be the stiffest caliper around, but they are way stiffer than OEM calipers.
Either way. You are wrong.
Caliper flex does not always mean lack of braking ability. It affects pedal feel more than anything. If you can't lock up you have other issues.
I read all about your issues on some facebook thread. And after multiple people explained to you that wilwoods work fine you still go around bashing them because of issues you have.
Stop spreading bullshit. They may not be the stiffest caliper around, but they are way stiffer than OEM calipers.
Either way. You are wrong.
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I'm going with flat spotted tires or rear hubs are bent or cracked. And since you dismissed the idea of the tires without checking them... well, there you go. Rears are easy to flat spot without knowing and will transfer more vibration under throttle and less when off throttle.
If you can't lock up even Hoosiers with Wilwoods then you are either running really shitty compound pads or have legs like noodles. Harden up. It ain't the brakes.
Data point -Spec Miata drivers can lock up Hoosiers with 1.6 brakes and flexible stock calipers. Even the women.
If you can't lock up even Hoosiers with Wilwoods then you are either running really shitty compound pads or have legs like noodles. Harden up. It ain't the brakes.
Data point -Spec Miata drivers can lock up Hoosiers with 1.6 brakes and flexible stock calipers. Even the women.
#15
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I'm going with flat spotted tires or rear hubs are bent or cracked. And since you dismissed the idea of the tires without checking them... well, there you go. Rears are easy to flat spot without knowing and will transfer more vibration under throttle and less when off throttle.
If you can't lock up even Hoosiers with Wilwoods then you are either running really shitty compound pads or have legs like noodles. Harden up. It ain't the brakes.
Data point -Spec Miata drivers can lock up Hoosiers with 1.6 brakes and flexible stock calipers. Even the women.
If you can't lock up even Hoosiers with Wilwoods then you are either running really shitty compound pads or have legs like noodles. Harden up. It ain't the brakes.
Data point -Spec Miata drivers can lock up Hoosiers with 1.6 brakes and flexible stock calipers. Even the women.
#16
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I have wilwoods. Have actually flat spotted a set of tires before.
Caliper flex does not always mean lack of braking ability. It affects pedal feel more than anything. If you can't lock up you have other issues.
I read all about your issues on some facebook thread. And after multiple people explained to you that wilwoods work fine you still go around bashing them because of issues you have.
Stop spreading bullshit. They may not be the stiffest caliper around, but they are way stiffer than OEM calipers.
Either way. You are wrong.
Caliper flex does not always mean lack of braking ability. It affects pedal feel more than anything. If you can't lock up you have other issues.
I read all about your issues on some facebook thread. And after multiple people explained to you that wilwoods work fine you still go around bashing them because of issues you have.
Stop spreading bullshit. They may not be the stiffest caliper around, but they are way stiffer than OEM calipers.
Either way. You are wrong.
#18
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Yes they flex. But they also stop really well. Stock calipers flex much more than that.
Not sure why you think I'm making things up. My brakes will lock up easily.
Did you bleed 2 bleeder screws on each caliper? There are 4 total per caliper. Each caliper needs both top screws bled.
Not sure why you think I'm making things up. My brakes will lock up easily.
Did you bleed 2 bleeder screws on each caliper? There are 4 total per caliper. Each caliper needs both top screws bled.
#19
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you can lock tires with wilwoods. torq is controlled by pad compound, rotor size, and hydraulic advantage. caliper's strength will control feel, pedal distance, pad taper, rotor life, and drag.
the dynalights-dynapro aren't great calipers. heck, they are under $200. I had wicked vibrations that went with the speed it's either a tire or an axle.
the dynalights-dynapro aren't great calipers. heck, they are under $200. I had wicked vibrations that went with the speed it's either a tire or an axle.
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