Today I decided to repack 4 of the 6 front wheel bearings I own and cycle in and out of my car to extend life (all cheap Chinese bearings).

I noticed that 3 bearings packed with either factory china-crap, M1 pink, or Redline Pink all essentially "failed". Either there is pick-up and score marks in the bearing races, play, metallic shine to the grease, and knock-out on the inner races. The Redline looked to seal a little better on the inner race but did not cling to the ***** when I removed the inner race.

The AMSoil greased bearing which has ~10hours on it looks new. The grease is still white, it really clings to the ball when you pull the races out, and you can turn the bearing and see the grease maintain a seal (no knockout) around the inner race and hub. I should emphasize how much different the AMSoil bearing was in respect to the ***** being covered in grease and they were very difficult to clean.

Now I'm going to repack the rear bearings with AMSoil 2000.

FYI, I don't sell AMSoil and have no allegiance...they're engine oil is too expensive and under performs compared to Rotella.

 

Great info! Your ball clinging fetish makes me a bit uncomfortable.

 

Is this personal experience or can you cite source reading?

 

UOA data showing that 5w40 Rotella and 10w40 AMSoil HD did about the same everywhere but fuel dilution was slightly worse with the AMSoil...but when you consider price and availability I stand by my remark considering the price and logistics constants involved with AMSoil. Both are great oils, but one is half the price and had a Wal-Mart.

I have 6-qt's sitting in the garage and I'm going to run 3-track days on the AMSoil and send it in, then compare to my most recent Rotella 6-hour sample and make my final decision on oil. I had a conversation with an AMSoil jock and he seemed to think the fuel dilution viscosity drop was something like a standard shear % that's not going to go any lower so he sent me another 6-bottles. We'll see if that's true.

 

Keep me posted... Rotella is everywhere here, but AMSoil not so much. Your earlier findings for Rotella are enough for me, but always good to get what works best when it comes to life force fluid.

 

Glad to hear you are liking the Rotella in your BP, I'm assuming you use the T6 5w40 synthetic? I run this in my TDI Volkswagen (it is a diesel oil, after all), but I just switched the escort over to it as well. Of course I just found a melted piston so I'm replacing the motor, but that’s besides the point.

 

Rotella in motor, Amsoil in tranny. I'll take hustlefucker's word on the bearing ballpack if I ever do it, and use Amsoil.

 

Is this the oil you speak of sir hustler ?
Right now I run the redline 10w30 I am NA by the way. I dont mind trying something new and cheaper for next season.

Shell Rotella® T6

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...ci_sku=8120031

Or this

Shell Rotella® T5

http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?...t5_detail.html

 

^T6 is what you want.

C

 

Awesome. Thanks!!

 

This is a bearing thread...I may have to clean house.

 

That is correct based of the title of the thread but the content inside tells a different story.

 

Fixed

 

I sell Amsoil on my web site. as for the engine oil they make a racing oil that is much better than the oils that were tested in that comparison, but its expensive.

 

My experience with racing oils is that it's not appropriate for street driven vehicles with relatively longer oil-change intervals.

My race cars get their oil changed a minimum of once per event. Sometimes multiple times per event.

 

Correct race oils are not intended for street use. And are not usualy leagal on the street as well.

 

But this is the race prep section

 

I used and have this stuff:
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/amo.aspx
As I see it this is the best oil AMSoil makes under $10 per quart.

I'd have to run the 15w50 to get a comparable 100*c kinematic viscosity to the $20 Rotella, and I'm still paying double the price. I have not run the more expensive race oil at all, but if I did and it performed at double the life of the Rotella, I'd switch to it. However, I'm only going to comment on oil I've run in my car and tested.

 

Have you ever done an oil analysis to see if its worth changing oil hourly? I've shown that 6-hours on synthetic HDEO GIII is doable if your fuel contamination is in check (11.5:1 in my car) and my oil temps hover at 280*f on the track.

 

Also if you run a vacuum pump set up it helps seal your cylinders up and pulls fuel out of the oil by raising the boiling point, increasing your oil life.